Happystang

Does the knob just pull off?

How is this removed?! Can't seem to find anything....

I agree, I love the these cars for the same reason. However, when it comes to safety items, I don't think one should be concerned about hurting value. 3 point belts, disc brakes etc..

Nothing wrong with upgrades in the sense of safety and to make it more drivable. All the changes you've listed can be easily reversed. Not that I would reverse them though ;)

Update!! It's indeed BENT down! Took it to 3 body shops, all agreed with me that the windshield post is bent down. Going back in a few days to get a quote...

**forgot to mention, all the body panels line up great, door panels open and close with no problem

#%^#@%^# 90% sure that my windshield post is bent down on the passenger side See my little diagram courtesy of Microsoft paint. I can grab that area with the arrow of the windshield post and actually push up and make the door window gap line up perfect with the windshield post. I'm going to take it to a body shop and see what they think. Looks like a porta power would move everything back into place. This explains a lot if the windshield post is indeed bent down a bit on that side. IE the gap between the windshield trim and the fender, why the top is really hard to latch on that side (I have to pull the top down so it reaches the windshield post), and there's a gap between the windshield and header panel trim where it looks like they tried to build it up with something under the header trim on that side to make things look even. What would cause this? Looks like someone was sitting on the header panel or the hood flew up and hit the windshield? There is absolutely no way that the angle of the windshielf post and door would ever fit the angle of the way the glass is cut in the front. I had this problem with the '69 glass before, I attributed it everything just being FUBAR with the old parts. Ps ignore my rust holes

Okay, I've adjusted the window so the top of the window is level with the bottom of the roof weather stripping. It appears that my windshield post is bent down? It doesn't look like this would ever fit unless the windshield is pushed about 1/2 inch upward. It doesn't follow the angle of the window, even with the weather stripping removed. Picture 1: No gap at all, window corner touching the windshield post. Picture 2: 3/4 inch gap from window to windshield post. Picture 3: Top of window level with roof weather strip. I already have the window pushed as far back as it can go per the adjustments allow. Still this! What gives??

Thank you so much!! I ended up using some epoxy per a local mustang shop here to glue them in, worked great! Just installed all the glass! The drivers side fit no problem, everything lines up and works perfectly. The passenger side however is giving me a VERY hard time. None of the windows lined up on both sides to begin with when I got the car. Problems I'm dealing with: Quarter window wiggles around forward and back a bit, causing the back of the glass to snag on the weather stripping. **forward as in moving towards the front of the car. Not side to side as in parallel to the car. I think it's the bushings that keep the window in the track are going bad, but how are these replaced? They seem glued to their little posts. Also, I have the tilt adjustment on the quarter window maxed out and it's still pointing too far inwards and not lining up with the weather stripping. The passenger door window's tilt (the one that's parallel to the car) has been adjusted to its max. IE the regulator bolt is pushed all the way to the top of its adjustment. Still not making a good seal against the windshield post. There is a 1/4 inch gap between the door window and the roof weather strip. It looks like the window is at the right height, as the top of the glass is even with the end of the windshield post weather stripping. The window refuses to go any higher without having issues closing the door. The weather stripping is new except for the windshield posts, it's like $130 A SIDE for the '69 convertible. One thing to note, the passenger side of the convertible top sits a little higher than the drivers side. I have to pull down on the top a bit on the passenger side so the top will reach the windshield post to latch down properly. Once in everything seems fine. Just very hard to latch and unlatch that side.

Okay, how close does the window have to be in the channel? I know the front ones on the '69 glass for the channel is like one inch from the front of the window. I don't want to glue the window in the wrong way :)

Anyone?

Just made a killing today picking up some parts. I currently have a '69 convertible and want to change over to the bolt in glass. I found a guy parting out a '69 and '70 coupe. The '70 had all the glass in it in perfect shape! From the '70: Both doors with all the bolt in glass and mechanisms inside it Both quarter windows with mechanisms Frame rail to valance brackets From the '69: 16:1 steering box with pitman arm Bought all of the above for $350! Very pleased. Anyways, few questions about the '70 glass. I see that the quarter window gets glued in as well. The passenger side quarter window's glue failed. What glue do you all use to reattach them? Also, is there a specific measurement for the it ['70 quarter window] to be glued back into bracket? (Don't know the technical term for it) And lastly, what's the going price for '69 coupe/convertible glue in glass/mechanism? I have a full set in good condition. The door glass has the factory greenish tint, the quarter ones are clear.

I always thought in stock form these cars had fairly decent ride quality. It was only until I started modifying the suspension that the ride quality became a little more harsh. Still tolerable, but nowhere near stock feel. The 620 lowering springs are harsh as is. Cut them a bit and you should be calling a chiropractor:)

I ended up ordering 17x8's all around! Coys had a sale and I took advantage of it :)

Thank you!!