69again

Your .64 final gear will be really nice. With 3.55's and 26.7" tall rear tires, your rpm's at 70 should be around 2k. What stall coverter are you going to put in? How does your True Trac work. Any noise on turns? I am thinking about installing the TrueTrac or a the Powertrax. Any thoughts? Thanks, Dan

What is the ratio for 5th gear in your transmission? What size tires are you planning on the rear and do you have a limited slip differential? Do you have the 302 block? I have the Edelbrock Performer RPM top end package on my 69 Coupe 302 with C-4 and 3.55 gears, tires are 26" tall. Has way more power than needed and at 60 miles per hour the engine is turning 3000rpm's. Kind of high for very long trips. Great for around town. With this much power, I could probably go back to the 3.00 gears and still have plenty of go out of the hole. Otherwise an overdrive would be great.

If you are going to blast your car, I would not use a rattle can. It is mostly solvents and will not give you a good base for a quality finish. I would suggest you use a two part epoxy primer. I use PPG dp50. It is expensive, but you need to have a good base to start from or your paint job will not last long. https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=2d2ecd20-f2e7-4fee-8feb-797be5b5283a There are many others out there as well. You will need a good compressor and ventalation as well. Just my 2 cents. Dan

unrealmach1, Nicely done! Your car looks great, Dan

I got my black one from Mustangs Unlimited. It says original tooling and I like how it looks. You might call them for your color. Hope this helps. Dan *1969-1970 models never had a white dash pad, this was produced for dying to match custom colors. http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=D69B09+01&Category=Interior&subCategory=Dash&CatKey=EMUSTANG

I hear you on that one. We had ours completely disassembled like you are planning. He blasted everything to bare metal. Even though we vacuumed and blew and vacuumed some more, when we started it up the first time (before interior and headliner) with a big cam and open headers, sand was coming out of everywhere. Vacuumed several more times. There are still times if you are underneath the car and using compressed air where sand comes out of the frame rails, etc. Doesn't taste good.

Not in the Florida area, but mine was by the hour $60. Total was less than a $1,000 but I had the car totally dis-assembled and he blasted all the brackets, suspension parts, etc. In hind sight I would not have had him blast all the suspension parts because I replaced them anyway. Probably would have saved a couple of hours. The guy I went to also had a paint booth you could rent for $40 a day. You might check with your local painters and see who they suggest. Dan

Usually with the Performer RPM package the cam is a high lift and the valve springs are stronger. They usually recommend a performance push rod. Jegs has a pushrod checker http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Adjustable-Pushrod-Length-Checker/758609/10002/-1 Dan

Gets someone to help and have them rotate the crank from under neath the car with a socket while you look on from the top. You shouldn't have to remove any of that.

In all the things that you tried, did you remove the wires from the cap and or plugs. You may want to ensure they are installed correctly. Also, you may want to pull the valve covers, remove the plugs and rotate the crank by hand to see if all the valves are moving up and down. Popping makes me thing spark plug wires on wrong/timing/valves. Just a thought. Dan

Hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks as though your pedal and the stop bushings are tighly bolted to the shaft that connects to both the clutch and break pedal. The clutch pedal and the break pedal should be pivoting freely. When you push the clutch does the pedal stop move with it. I would check for bushings, spacers etc so the petal moves freely on the shaft. Post a picture of the instructions as something does not look correct. just a thought, dan

I have a brand new pertronix, flame trower coil and wires. I initially put them on my 302, but the dyno man said I should switch to the MSD since I built the engine up a bit. It worked great on the dyno and has less than an hour run time on it. I can check the exact model and let you know if you are interested in purchasing it at a good price. Thanks, Dan

I put 6x9 Kenwoods in. The Kenwoods I used have a pretty large magnet. I am not sure if they have a low profile set. Mine use the whole entire flat spot that the speaker sits on. You may want to check out a local supplier that you can measure.

I put this version for the coupe in mine. Installed pretty easy and the prefish is okay. I may go back and cover it some type of cloth down the road. I still had to cut a little of the deck, but not much. Doesn't help with your setup although it would probably look pretty nice once covered and finished. http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=PT11+01&Category=&catkey=emustang

I like them. Very suttle yet it does break the side panel up. What about hood and back of the car? Any plans to tie them in?

Installed the roller perches this weekend. Drives much much better. I have 245 17's BFGoodrich on the front. As always, the information on this website is great!

Edelbrock has the same situation on some of their carbs. They have an extension for it.

Did you change the flex plate? Were you able to turn the engine over with the flex plate installed prior to installing the transmission? If you changed your flex plate, make sure it is installed correctly so that it is not hitting the bell housing. If all that is ok, you might try removing the spark plugs. I have also, very carefully, taken a large screw driver and turned the engine over by using the teeth on the flex plate, assuming it is not rubbing on some other part.

I just put a new oil pan gasket on last weekend. Yes, Just remove the cross member. Becareful when aligning the hex shaft that comes from the distributor. My oil pan gasket had 4 alignment pins, which came in handy.

After you loosen the nut, turn the bolt part until the control arm moves towards the center to reduce camber. You should take the load off the car, to reduce the stress on the bolt. If I remember correctly, there is about an inch slot. You can' see it because it is behind that offset washer

Project is looking good. When do you get it painted? Your attention to detail will pay off when the project is finished. An alignment will take care of it, however, it looks like your camber is way negative. Adjusted by your lower control arm. I would at least adjust camber so it is about nuetral until you get it aligned. At least that way you will know better how your stance is going to look. Then adjust toe-in/out so it looks straight. Dan

69gmachine, You are both saying the same thing. Article "So instead of going for the widest pipe possible we should be looking for the combination of the narrowest pipe that produces the least backpressure possible. In this scenario we achieve the least restriction on positive flow and the highest gas travel speed." You, "The ideal size is the smallest diameter that does NOT create back pressure, as that will have the highest gas velocity."

I have 245's on the front and it is one scary ride on rough roads. I ordered the perches from Opentracker and will let ou know how it handles after I get them on. Dan

I bought the Ford tooling as well and it looks and fits great. Compared it to my orginal and it was done well. Dan

Justafordguy, I have 245's on the front and 295's on the back of mine and it does it as well. Pretty scarry on the rough roads. Might want to borrow some tires before you make the purchase. Dan