Shep69

I’m glad you figured it out mate. It’s  been a nightmare that’s for sure. You have patience. It’s a 5 year thread. 

Good idea. I've had it on stands and been under it but can't identify where it's from. In the car it feels to be central. When parked and running it in neutral through the rev range the engine is smooth and nothing visible from the shaker. When on the road I can feel it and see the shaker vibrating. I keep feeling like its tailshaft or transmission. Third tailshaft and it's been checked three times (I'm still dubious). I keep getting told that there is nothing in an FMX that could cause the vibration.
While it doesn't feel like it's coming from the rear end I wanted to swap the rear wheels to eliminate them. Unfortunately the rear tires do not clear the front guards so I'm trying to borrow a pair of wheels. It has also been suggested that it could be the rear drums. The problem I have is that trouble shooting like this has me spending money each time. Not like you can easily borrow drums or wheels.

I also tucked and wrapped the unused wires. Who knows how long I'll run the one wire, and wanted to be able to use a Ford alternator later on. 

I was thinking about this as well. I’m loving the 1 wire alternator but have just wrapped up the harness and tucked it out of site just in case . 

Vintage LEDs Christmas Sale 10% off all orders on in stock items November 26th thru December 6th. Enter coupon code XMAS2021 at checkout www.vintageleds.com

I didn’t even know that pedders sold shocks for our mustangs Mal. That’s good to know. My front springs are pedders and it rides nice. 
I did the shelby drop many years ago and it made a big difference. I just wish I had have welded the plates into the shock towers . Oh well next time . 

Edelbrock pro flo 4 is what I was speaking of in post above. I used it on a 454 well pleased with it.

A buddy of mine used one from a late model F-150 with good results. 

Shep, I ordered mine from Richmond Brake and Clutch in Melbourne 03 9853 2113. No stock in Brisbane at the time.  Pads to suit VT Commodore callipers fitted to my 69 $137.45 delivered to Brisbane. Much cheaper than EBAY. They may be closed with the covid 19 lock down at present. DP31158C may be the pads you need.

He probably doesn't want to take it apart until he has the new ones in hand- that's the way I would do it.

From the 69 Shop Manual;

When the heat is on here in Tucson, lots of creeps idle around open bedroom windows...just saying...

The thermostat is there to reduce water flow though your radiator to help get the engine up to temperature quicker, once fully open say about 180 F, it serves no further need. First thing to check would be your timing, but temps of 195 to 205 F are normal. More damage is done to an engine running at to low a temperature.

I had started a thread asking about repro O.E. ford 4BBL Throttle Cable Brackets, which started to morph into a thread about modding one to mount on one of these Summit carbs.   Instead of continuing with that thread, I figured it would be best to start clean with a NEW thread on all that needs to be done to install this series of carburetors on a 1969 or 1970 Mustang / Cougar.
I'm installing the 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary version (M08600VS) on my 1969 mustang with 351W and Offenhauser 360Deg Equa-Flow Dual Plane Intake.   I'd guess the installation would be very similar on any 1969-70 Ford V8 that uses a square hole throttle cable & bracket that mounts to the rear carb studs.
FIRST STEP ... Modding an O.E. Ford or reproduction 4BBL Throttle Cable Bracket to fit the back end of this carb.   
In my case, I bought the Clear Zinc Plated '69-70 Boss 302 bracket from NPD (9741-6A).   The  '69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A) could also be used, but I bought the Boss one because they sell for the same price and it was plated and the other one appears to be bare steel, plus I was hoping maybe it had a little more "drop" in the section that goes under the rear of the carb.
Well, the Boss 302 bracket only has 1/4" of drop to it and the Summit carb needs at least 11/16" so it needed to be modded to fit.
The 12/26/20 post in the original thread has pics of how I planned to mod the bracket: '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ... - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
MODDING the BRACKET:
I cut a 0.83" wide strip of steel out of a RACO 2-Gang Electrical Switch Cover using a 6" Drill Master Cut-Off Saw I bought from Harbor Freight.   Had to put the back stop at the further back position and remove the clamp assembly as the cover was maybe an 1/8" too wide and just held it down by hand.   Had to flip over to finish the cut, as it only went about 80-90% thru.   A larger abrasive chop saw would be able to do in one cut or could also use a band saw.   
I used an old Holley carb base I had in my carb parts box as a "weld fixture", used a Ryobi 18V 3" cut-Off Saw to cut away the center section after welding the outside welds, then welded the inners after the piece was removed.   A little grinding to clean up my welds then removed from fixture.   
Cleaned it up with Lacquer Thinner then Wax & Grease Remover and then masked off the ends and painted the center section with cold galvanize paint.
Mod is pretty much unseen as mounted in the last pic.
I'll post other steps for this carb installation as new posts.     
Doug
 
    

Didn't mean to give you more work, HAHA.  Good thing is, its not a hard job!  I am very happy and actually feel safer on the road, as I have heard many stories of people not being able to see the brake lights on our older cars.  
 
 

here is my vert..nothing on the side.. a little  narrower and tighter than the 70.
I do think the scoop helps a lot.

I too installed the Vintage LED set up recently.  You can see it is pixelated some compared the stock bulb with just the lights on. But as bright as they are, I should have done it much sooner and VERY HAPPY with the quality and ease of install of the Vintage LED product.  I did the front turn signals and back up lights as well.   Here is a quick video as well of the, it does flare the camera a little as bright as they are, but I love the setup.  I also like that when you hit the brakes it can do just solid and on sequential.  

20200523_112043.mp4

I went with VintageLeds, you don't get the pixelized dots like the other brands. 
 
 

Shep69 when I get to the point of assembling my 69 Coupe I am going to use https://vintageleds.com/ for the tail/stop lights, parking/turn signals, & the reverse lights.

I used Graphics Express and couldn’t be happier . I did purchase some on eBay and they were complete rubbish the first time. 
 

Shep69 I have a Spectra premium fuel tank with the pump in the tank that has 2 fittings on the sender where the pump is mounted to be able to run a feed & return line. I have not yet decided if I am going to use a carb or go EFI. I am using for the fuel line ni copp (nickel/copper) line that is easy to form & bend & use where the line connects at the fuel tank, fuel filter, & at the engine  Gates barricade fuel injection hose. I am using Aeroquip socket less hose ends for the connections from the hard to the soft lines, & a Quick Fuel fuel pressure regulator if I run a carb.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6404190&cc=1132399&jsn=558
https://unchain.gates.com/us/en/search?text=27349
https://www.amazon.com/Nickel-Copper-Brake-Transmission-Tubing/dp/B00A1WBYUC
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-30-900qft

Understood.  You could possibly do the same set up just use the Carb Regulator.  If you ever switch to EFI, just swap out the regulator.  
And yes the right PTFE is not cheap and I did get the good stuff as I read the same things about the pin holes.  Certainly didn't want that issue.  

I'll be using a Mallory pump & regulator combo. I already have it but can't say about the noise level as its not installed yet.

 
 
 

agreed, Im going this route once I go EFI, the stealth tank can handle both EFI and Carb Set ups. its matter of getting a fuel regulator and correct hose.  

well, here's a thought.  If you've got a good frame under there with the global west rails, and it's solid, maybe consider just going with it as is instead of trying to improve.  There is always more you can do to try to improve, but is it really needed?  A car guy generally needs a car that rolls, so what's the best path back to getting the car moving again?  I'm frequently stuck in this conundrum - maybe I'll keep her down another few months while I do all this other stuff...  time as taught me that I like the car drivable.  Now if you skip the frame improvement, you've got it on a beautiful lift, go thru and remove all the rust spots, clean the bottom, and I rattle-canned truckbed liner under there, and I really love how hard and protective that coating is on the bottom is now.  Put the stuff back in and get her rolling.  
A car in a constant state of improvement doesn't roll much.  Do good work everywhere you are working, and maybe fight the urge to improve things everywhere.  I sure have to.  My car rolls again (5 yrs it was down for restore!) it's not perfect, but damn I love hitting the streets with it more than having all these other things I need to do before I can drive it again....