lanky

My OE, rust-free scissor jack in those exact circumstances folded on me. I even had lubricated the threads prior to using it. I thought I was imagining the car moving down while I was working on tire, but stepped back a second and "oh s#@+!" It was bending right in front of my eyes. Left lug nuts loose, called a friend to bring a pump jack.
Was on perfectly level surface, and prior to that incident the jack was nearly unused. My car was garaged over a decade before it was in my family, and the jack looked pristine. It's been turned into a lamp or something by recyclers now. I warn everyone not to trust theirs!

You place the pvc pipe on the vertical adjusting bars that the U shaped brackets slide up and down. By slicing down one side of the pipe you can push it over the vertical bars and it fits snug . It’s a bit of trial and error to get the pipe to the height you want. 

I got a t handle tool similar to the one pictured above only with one additional bend. Only one shop in town had ila t handle hook tool and the employee said he couldn't remember the last time they sold one. I hate to admit it but it worked perfectly. Thanks for all the tips everyone, what worked for me was holding the bulb in the bucket with the trim ring loosely attached via screws and then use the tool to stretch the spring to the tab. Apparently the extra bend and t handle solved two of the issues why I couldn't get it done before.
And sorry for the infantile posts...I was pretty frustrated. I guess I just added another tool to the trunk tool kit!

OK thanks I will try that.

Its air in the line (s) somewhere. Rebleed them is my recommendation.

Its air in the line (s) somewhere. Rebleed them is my recommendation.

I have sport bilstein's and wish I had chosen street. I have 560 lb/in with 2/3 coil cut, a little stiff in front but the rear is fine with my 4.5 reverse eye leafs.

I have sport bilstein's and wish I had chosen street. I have 560 lb/in with 2/3 coil cut, a little stiff in front but the rear is fine with my 4.5 reverse eye leafs.

I have sport bilstein's and wish I had chosen street. I have 560 lb/in with 2/3 coil cut, a little stiff in front but the rear is fine with my 4.5 reverse eye leafs.

Mine had goo around the hoses...

I have poly ron morris mounts. Slight increase but totally tolerable for me.

What I meant by my comment was that if I had 17x8 TTII's with 4.5" backspacing, or my current setup, the tire and actual rim (not wheel spokes but actual rim) is in the the same place. Meaning force from the tire is sent through the bearings/hubs in the same way.
Those who mention wheel bearings are correct ONLY if the whole wheel (rim and tire) is moved outward and yes that would put more stress on the wheel bearing. By this logic switching to any wheel combination wider than factory adds stress to parts, even if its only wider on the inboard side (leverage works both ways).
Ideally I totally agree don't run them if you can avoid it, definitely. I do believe wheel adapters are usually better than wheel spacers too, for the fact that a proper wheel adapter self-centers while tightening and very few spacers are designed this way.
I have learned from the racetrack that a lot more cars than you think run wheel spacers (not adapters). Yea yea I know they're not street cars, but wheel spacers aren't exactly a guaranteed death sentence either. For you or your bearings.

Great idea. I vote for hiding with a velcro cover with a loop handle for easy removal.

Flywheel, the car is just for fun nothing for track just to take to a few meets and around town. Had to rebuild the 351W so decided to ann a little extra!

I can't say anything about TCP yay or neh, but Shaun at Street or Track has excellent customer service. If I could have a do-over I would have purchased his front coil over kit.

I have a set of kyb gas a just front shocks off my 1969 mustang with less than 1000 miles on them. Perfect working condition. Best offer

I have a set of kyb gas a just front shocks off my 1969 mustang with less than 1000 miles on them. Perfect working condition. Best offer

In general I would stay away from anything that uses 80's single piston gm calipers. I looked at those they use at speedway and they are the same that I have dealt with on my cutlass, garbage... the sliding mechanism is inherently flawed and the pistons have reputations for sticking and acting weird. My $.02