lanky

I say this with all due respect.  LOL!  When someone says that, you can always expect it to be followed by something disrespectful!  Just kidding!
I’m a 70-71 Torino guy who just recently got into the Mustang game when I bought a 70 Mach 1 Basket case.  I have two Torinos and have bought and sold a bunch of them over the last decade.
I have to laugh when I see someone complaining about availability and prices of Mustang parts.  Mustang people, myself included, have it made.  Virtually every part of the Mustang is reproduced.  We can get any part we want.  Not only that, the prices are pretty reasonable.  There are many Mustang vendors competing for your business which keeps prices reasonable.  Moreover, the sheer volume of Mustang cars produced and their popularity ensures they will keep on making Mustang parts.
I compare that to my Torino experience.  Parts are scarce.  Most parts are not reproduced.  The cars were not nearly as popular, and less were produced, resulting in much less NOS or junkyard parts.  This results in the parts prices much higher than a Mustang.  Just last year, for the very first time, they started to reproduce quarter panels.  We could not have been more excited.
This is just one example.  MACs auto parts has a set of louvers complete with hardware for a 1970 Mustang Fastback for less than $500.  They don’t reproduce Torino Louvers and if you ever found one you would pay up to $4000.00 for an unrestored set not including the hardware.  Then there is the cost of restoring them.  A complete unrestored Torino console will run anywhere from $1000-$1500.  Again, that is unrestored.
When I first took inventory of my Mustang, I was really depressed because of my past Torino experience.  I knew I had to restore or find a lot of parts and was expecting it to be expensive and time consuming.  Once I started researching and shopping, I was like a kid in a candy store.  I was able to get every part I needed online at prices I thought was pretty reasonable compare to my Torino experience.
There are plenty of other cool cars out there that have even less available repro parts and had even smaller production numbers.  Those guys have it really tough.
In the end, if you have a Mustang, consider yourself lucky.  It could be worse.  Much worse.

The basic issue is that of demand: it is 100 to 1000x that of IH.  There are folks interested in concours level restorations, that drive the price of NOS stuff (what's left, that is..) through the roof.  Demand has produced reproduction parts, which range in quality to awful to good; but the cost of tooling is very high, pushing the cost of new parts upwards.  Most of the good Mustang junk yards have been picked clean, and what's left is pretty much not worth looking at, if it even exists.  Yes, there are a couple Mustang specific yards left, but the folks know of the demand for parts and the price they can get for them. 
On the other hand, there are many craftsmen who rebuild and restore things such as fuel pumps, master cylinders, brakes, power steering, and (gasp!) even wiring at fair prices.  You won't find them in the IH world, as there's too little demand for it.
It's all about supply and demand, and demand in the Mustang world dominates the market.

You can get serpentine pulleys for your pump at KRCpower.com
I don't think you'll find a better pump than the KRC unit. Stay with it. You can change flow valves on it to tune it to your liking too. I did change mine.
I have a full KRC setup, and it's very clean. After this picture was taken, I have changed the WP pulley from a 6rib/6rib to a 6rib/3rib.

I do like the KRC pump, however if seems if I go with a CVF serpentine, I need to go with their Wraptor system (it's the only one for SBF engine with GM type-2 pump mount).  Unfortunately, it moves the alt to the drivers side, and costs $1000 more, which I'm not keen on.  Spec-wise, a saginaw pump with pressure reducer value should do the trick.
Maybe I can convert/modify their "Beast" bracket to support the KRC pump?
https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-289-302-351w-serpentine-conversion-kit-alternator-power-steering/
We'll see. Otherwise, lanky expect a PM.

Damn, I sure hope there won't be a test later. I'm still working on colors this week, next week is numbers. 

Midlife has a Mustang wiring question? Is it April 1st?

It looks like the white clip is broken off and as far as I know you need a new speedo cable

I installed a Borgeson kit on my 196 Mach 1, 351W and 4sp car.  The car also has JBA short headers.  I installed the Borgeson kit before Open Track Racing offered a modified Z-bar so I had to modify my own.  It works just fine.  My concerns with the Borgeson power steering:
1.  When collapsing the column to fit the Borgeson steering box the inner and outer column shafts fit loosely and rattle.  This is because the plastic rings Ford installs to lock the inner and outer column shafts together end up in a new position where they no longer serve part of their purpose.  This thread by another member shows the plastic rings for the inner column shaft. Collapsible Steering shaft bushings - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
2.  The steering for the most part does not return to center.  This bothers some, but I'm okay with it.
3.  If you want one finger Cadillac style power steering, then this will be fine.  There is absolutely no road feel in the steering wheel.  I tried reducing the pump pressure, but it's either Cadillac style power steering or no assist at idle.
I likely would never do the conversion again.  And if this ever has any issues I'll go back to the stock steering box.  

After recieving multiple complaints about the numerous political ads, and not wanting to run off the talent, no political threads or posts will be allowed. Thanks for your understanding and compliance. 

"The spindle steering arm is shorter to fit inside the wheel and 1" further outboard than stock.  We have designed and machined longer billet tie rod sleeves for factory based steering linkage with 11/16-18 RH/LH threads.  If using a Unisteer rack, we can supply longer inner tie rod ends."
https://streetortrack.com/suspension/front-suspension/spindles/billet-big-spindles
A bit too expensive for me, but if you really want a wide wheel and can save some I guess that it could fit a yearly budget for some of our cars. :)

So.....
https://www.facebook.com/streetortrackllc/photos/a.10156361062095753/10157636460425753/?type=3&theater
New drop spindle! Exited!

Show us the actual chats, not second or third hand reports.

This one looks simple, that is the wrong exhaust manifold.  Here's an image I found.  The bottom manifold is the left (drivers) side and the top manifold is the right (passenger) side.  I wonder if somebody installed 289 or 302 manifolds on a 351W.  If so, both are wrong as the 351W manifolds have a larger flange for a larger exhaust pipe.

Keep in mind, since you're running EFI, they prefer single plane manifolds otherwise the sensors/computer gets confused. Don't take my word for it, read up on this subject. Dual planes disrupt the way they sense air charges, in short 

Those look like drum spindles to me

exactly what i was going to suggest Lanky. I did this to mine and also set the shaft in control arm forward a thread or two. all this made the grease fitting to close the the shock tower so I plugged the original hole so I positioned everything the way would be torqued down and marked the nut hex flat facing out. took back apart and drilled and taped the hole. With this modification and lower control arm pulled forward as far as I could without tire rub on valance I got 5 degrees caster. I had CPP intergral steering box similar to Borgensen and the car drove awesome.

something I wish I was told before I did this, but I can also blame myself for not thinking about it, is not only lower control arm holes but relocating them slightly rearward to increase caster without the wheel being pulled too far forward in the wheel well.

I have read about 1-2 degrees of pitch during acceleration, but it's pretty impossible to know the exact amount.
Since I put lowering reverse eye leaf springs and new motor mounts I've had a vibration as well. So far I think I have a 3 degree wedge installed, but I stopped there for now bc I'm planning on swapping a toploader in. My angle measurements will change after that.
 

Hello...can I speak to Jenny? 

You would need both for the system to work correctly.
A filtered air supply from your air cleaner to one valve cover OR a breather fitted to that cover.
On the other valve cover you would need to hook up a PCV with vacuum supplied by either a intake manifold fitting OR a vacuum supply from your carb or carb spacer.

You guys are a riot! 
And don't forget to wear those tin-foil hats, OK?

lanky, the brackets I used are Ford stock alternator brackets, aluminum bracket that bolts to the cyl head # - D0OE-10A336-A2, alternator bracket # - D0OE-10156-A, large offset adjuster bracket # - D32AE-10145-DA. I had to use a 3/4" spacer on the bottom alternator bracket bolt so the bracket would be straight. I am using a standard rotation water pump from a 1987 Crown Vic 5.0 & a Dayco # - 5060410 serpentine belt. IIRC the higher amp alternator is a large frame alternator, the 95 amp alternator like the one I got is the smaller frame alternator.

@lanky - if you need anything, let me know.  It was a three hand job to mount the firewall bracket and somewhat annoying to not be able to find a perfectly flat spot but as they allude to in the instructions, there may be a slight over hang.  I chose NOT to grind my bracket for clearance.  Focus on a straight smooth push action from the edge of the clutch pedal through the mechanism into the bracket - no side load.  You'll get what I mean when you start in on the job.
Nate

No return spring needed for hydraulic setups. However different springs can be used to "tune" the feel of the pedal, but hardly anyone does this.
This thread is useful for me because hopefully this summer I'll be installing a MDL setup as well.

my understanding is only harbor freight tools work on Chevys