lanky

Great idea. I vote for hiding with a velcro cover with a loop handle for easy removal.

Do you have the 14:1 box or 16:1? I am unhappy with how mine drives too, and I haven't had leaks using the borgeson hoses (which I wish they made at least 1.5" longer). In the future I am considering doing an electric steering conversion and using the factory box. Glad I kept it!

I have to agree with fvike: I had kyb gas a justs and they were really stiff for a street car, but if you have sloppy springs maybe they help adjust for that. But it's better to let the spring do the work. I think with a reasonable spring setup the bilstein street or sports are optimal. BTW I have a good set of kyb front gas a just for sale BO :) Idk about everyone here but my experience with cheap shocks is that they wear out unevenly side to side and don't last very long. I learned this after buying cheap shocks for various makes/models and being disappointed. The bushings in alot of them now are trash. Don't buy summit brand shocks.

Mine also fits poorly and I will one day make my own or buy the maier racing piece. I think someone else made a nice setup too...

I can't blame either of you for trying! I now wonder if I would have been better off trying...

Is this the 14:1 box or 16:1? And are you running a stock style idler arm? What does your f150 center like? Aka the steering returns to center fully?

Also interested as I looked all over my car and couldn't see anything there anywhere. Need to know!

For the record, you will have to permanently modify your column if you want to use a u joint. The collapsible column won't have enough room for a u joint before the firewall or the column outer tube itself is a problem.

Ok so the wheels are for 99-04 got it, 5.95 backspacing. I actually am already running 1.5" wheel spacers, but would like to get rid of them just for safety. When I do buy wheels I like knowing others have run a similar size/backspacing setup with success. No tire rubbing for you two? What tire sizes are you guys running? When I go 17x9 I am hoping to get at least 245 or 255 up front, I have 235 now.

rwc stang: what is your front wheel backspacing? When I win the lottery and purchase wheels I want to see if I can get away with 17x9's all around with the same backspacing F-R

I can go on and on about my dislike of the borgeson box but am hopeful the new design is better. Excited to see what people say as far as driving impressions. Leaving the topic of RTC alone, the on center gear tightness makes it very difficult to keep the car in a straight line. Wheel wants to "fall" to one side or the other, for lack of better words. Had alignment/toe checked and then double checked and this is/was with all new ORP track roller suspension (arms,perches) baer tracker outers, SOT adjustable strut rods etc etc Car drove perfect with respect to RTC and centering with stock manual steering setup, albeit parking being impossible haha. Either design or manufacturing or both created something wrong somewhere. If I have the time one day I am now considering buying an extra steering column and fabbing up an EPAS system... I hear the RTC is good with these.

I have yet to find a picture of the new boxes showing the casting is different. I have over 5 degrees of caster and it didnt help with return to center very much. I have driven a lot of older vehicles with integral power steering boxes and the rtc and on center feel is worse than all of them. I use the Borgeson pump as well.

Hi LarryC, can you describe how well your electric setup drives and where you got it/type? I have heard that these setups can also have return to center issues because of the way they function, however since newer cars come with them maybe this is not true. Anyway I have been thinking about electric steering for quite a while as I am unhappy with my Borgeson. Too bad no one makes a manual steering box with a quicker ratio, that would be awesome.

Did you get the 14:1 box? If you did I demand pictures (jk about the demand part...sort of). I am hoping that they used an entirely different (shorter in length) gear box case. The way my 16:1 Borgeson is splined makes me wish they had cut the output shaft shorter then resplined it. I wonder if this is something a machinist can do somewhere...

I haven't had any leak problems yet, but I am not a fan either just from how the car drives. Once I understood the geometric flaws of the box I was actually pretty upset and made me wish I had rebuilt the stock P/S or gone rack and pinion (not perfect either ugh). Maybe I don't have leaks yet because I still have cast iron manifolds.

I switched out to the RMP 1/2" lower mounts and can report a slight vibration at idle and no extra vibration anywhere else. I am very happy with my setup.

Wow so you think the lighter engine parts are why yours is more manageable? Mine was still all iron. I have an aluminum intake and new carb waiting to go on, and then headers, but I won't be touching the heads or other engine parts for a looong time. You have a 302 based motor too probably?

1969 Mach: Were you running larger wheels and tires at the time? Wow I am confused right now. I was running only an inch smaller wheel and I swear it was a freaking bear to turn the wheel at low speeds. Could a half a degree of caster really up the effort of my setup that much? I was using the factory 16:1 box but for some reason I wouldn't think there would be much of a difference. I even properly lubed the box, which was in great working order and still pretty tight too. That was why I went with the Borgeson setup in the first place, which I think so is not so great.

RPM what size steering wheel do you use? With a 14" I could barely turn the car at low speeds with manual steering with 235/45/17. That was with 2.5+ caster. The feel once moving was nice though.

I did a bunch of other changes at the same time when I lowered my control arms so it's tough to say, however I did articulate the suspension springless to see camber curve and it was pretty different from factory. Its easy to do and I think everybody not trying to do a concourse restoration should.

Since you are doing a rebuild, I assume you are going to do the shelby drop? If you're going to, just relocate the upper arm holes slightly back,1/4" or so. That would give the car more caster off the bat without relying on shims, how short the strut rods adjust to, and it would keep the wheel from being forward in the wheel well from adding caster (if you need it). Mine is very far forward in the wheel because I dropped my locating holes 90 degrees (like normal) and I have a lot of caster.

I have the exact same problem, upper side clips dont want to stay and I an afraid if I bend them they'll break

Same problem here, current fix: black zip tie :(

I have sport bilstein's and wish I had chosen street. I have 560 lb/in with 2/3 coil cut, a little stiff in front but the rear is fine with my 4.5 reverse eye leafs.

I can't say anything about TCP yay or neh, but Shaun at Street or Track has excellent customer service. If I could have a do-over I would have purchased his front coil over kit.