lanky
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Everything posted by lanky
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I used to have a Grant wheel, and will never use one again. The horn mechanisms are poorly designed and are not durable. Too bad because the wheels themselves I like. I had the one that came with the wheel/adapter. The turn signal problem is most likely the turn signal switch. I have also had bad luck with the replacements available. Right now my horn goes off spontaneously and I've tried everything to fix it short of replacing the switch (again). I'm tempted to run my own horn switch or an externally wired one with a spiral wound wire. When my switch was new the cancellation part stopped working within days. Frustrating.
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I have a 351w with manifolds, the borgeson is about 1/4" away from the exhaust right after the collector. Haven't had any issues. I'm hope after I install headers there will still be clearance.
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I already have a beefy relay system in place with 12ga wiring. For the outers if you use h1 style they are single filament bulbs which means if you don't do one of two things the outers would turn off when hi beams are turned on. You can jump the foot switch like mentioned, or use/make an adapter that plugs into the female lamp socket like I mentioned. I don't know what is meant by feedback. Yes it would power the leads for the low side but that shouldnt do anything detrimental.
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That is very helpful. I'm not fully decided on high beams, but it seems that the Hella "BiFocals" (which I suspect are actually the Hella Vision Plus since I can't find a product by that name) are the way to go for outers. One question, when switching to the h1 style outers, can't you just connect the 2 leads which were the positives for hi and low together? I was thinking it would probably be easier to buy 2 male headlight plugs and splice the 2 positive leads into 1 and then add whatever style connector is used for h1 style housings.
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Stangs-r-me thank you for your experience and pictures/part numbers. I will certainly consider aclls for the hi's, do you remember what was required for those to fit? I don't doubt that Stern knows his stuff but I don't like blindly buying something without knowing what it is. I do understand the wiring difference if I run h1 outers. Searching "Kiota" didn't turn much results for me.
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Why can't I find any information on both the Kiota h4 Lo/HI's or the Koito HI's? Notice not same brand. I don't understand that chart at all. So in LO mode the best outer lamps are the Hella Bifocals, but if we are in HI mode the best outer lamps are the Kiota? And for inner lamps (HI's) "Koitos" are best? Where can I find these to look at?
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I would like a schematic as well, I didn't realize there would be wiring changes to do this. I thought H4 sockets were the same as our Lo/Hi with 3 terminals. I did see H1's self ground or something like that and have a different style connector.
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I just finished my relay install with 12 gauge wires everywhere, came out great. Mach1 if not H4 what style are the Hella BiFocal lamps and do you have a part number? I haven't come across those at all. I saw the Cibie's on Daniel Sterns website and those are H4's as well which you are saying to stay away from.
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I am leaning towards those. Seem reasonably priced. Anyone have problems related to heat from running halogens? Summit is so good about returns there's no harm trying them if heat isn't a problem.
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I have been reading everything I can find on headlights for our 69's. A lot of information is conflicting, and I am basically back at square one. My two concerns are fitment and how good the lenses/housings are therefore projection. If you have any input please chime in! Starting with OE style sealed beams there are Philips h5001 (Hi) and h5006 (split-beam) that I'm assuming are a direct fit. I really want something better than these if I can do it without too much trouble/$$. Then there's the Wagner Sealed Beam Halogens with the same #'s. I'm assuming these are also a direct fit, (1) has anyone used these and (2) are they any better than the standard sealed beams? Please apply same q's as above for the Scott Drake sealed beam halogens (3) and (4). I don't know who manufactures for them. I want bright lighting and would prefer more white light than the factory sealed beams provide. A near-miss with a deer has me pretty motivated about this. I want lights that will correctly fit in the buckets and not be crooked or anything. I don't mind trimming the backside of the buckets but I would prefer not to. I purchased Maxtel "conversion" H4 lenses/bulbs that were supposed to be a direct fit replacement for sealed beam h5001/5006's but they don't fit very good even after I modified the mounting tabs. (4) Is the heat from Halogens anything to worry about? If this is the case then we are all outta luck either way (LED's aside). Then through Daniel Stern Lighting I see the Cibie H4 Split-beams and the H1 Hi's. (5) Has anyone used these and what were the results? I read that at some point the production of these changed or something and they were no longer very good, maybe that was just misinformation. I have the same q's as above for the Hella Vision Plus H4 Split-beams and H1 Hi's. I tend to think Hella would make a good product, but perhaps that is just riding on their reputation. I am not considering LED's for cost alone, my understanding is the only good ones are very pricey plus the cheaper ones look terrible visually to me. Let this be the most comprehensive headlight thread so that others have somewhere to look! Thanks
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V-6 Ford Contour Electric cooling fan controller.
lanky replied to Mike65's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
After repeated attempts to contact DCC with no reply whatsoever I decided my money is better spent supporting a company that actually cares about it's customers. After a lot of decision making with my contour fan setup I went overkill. I am using a variable speed controller from Derale and also used 2 relays on switches as backups in case the controller ever craps out. One relay for high and one for low, with the low circuit utilizing the contours built in resistor. I am nearly done with the install and will post a short thread on it when it's up and running. -
I have to say that I think that chart is at least slightly off as Ford definitely had more factory ratios for the 9" than those listed in blue.
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Out here in CA area rebuilt toploaders go for 900-1000 EASY. I got an unrebuilt one for 800 and I looked for a long long time to pay that price.
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I have 2 Hurst shifters both for classic mustangs. I have been toying with the idea of a remote mount shifter too. I will definitely look into that. Quick question for those with Hurst shifters and toploaders: if your shift lever is in neutral position and you push the lever forward does it go into 3rd or 1st gear? Mine goes into 3rd unless you go left as well. Full disclosure I rebuilt the shifter myself and wanted to make sure that this is normal.
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Thanks that at least gives me a ballpark. The problem with changing shift lever length and angle for an easier reach is that it would make the shift motion more up and down (vertically) which ain't right. One thing I might try is getting a female coupler to attach on top of Hurst shift lever and either bend the coupler or bend a long bolt attached to it. For obvious reasons the idea of cutting up my tunnel doesn't sound appealing but it may end up being the best option.
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I have 2 aftermarket competition plus shifters both without the bolt on lever, and one original 1968 shifter setup which works ok but I won't be using. What I am hoping for is to see how close peoples shifter levers get to the rear of the tunnel hole to see if cutting and rewelding the lever makes sense. Need pictures though. I am leaning towards making a custom plate for the hurst to attach more rearward and cutting and reshaping the tunnel to accomodate the relocated shifter.
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Hi guys, I'm saving up to swap to a Toploader and while doing so I am planning everything reasonable (key word) to improve the driving position/controls for my car. Since I am 6'5 I already have moved the drivers seat down and back, and I have already installed a steering wheel and hub combo that moved the wheel towards rear about 2.5". This definitely helped me fit in the car better. Even with the current fmx in the car the shifter is pretty difficult to reach for me, and once the car is a manual the reaching to 1st/3rd would be unacceptable for me. I tossed around the idea of moving the engine and transmission back to place the shifter further rearward for better positioning. After realizing how quickly this becomes a rabbit hole of modifying things I have decided I would be better off doing one of two things... 1)The simplest idea is to cut and reweld the Hurst shifter lever. This is why I need some pictures from you guys, because I would like to see how close the lever gets to the factory tunnel hole. Anyone have pictures of their shifter in 2nd, and 4th? Really hoping to find pictures showing the tunnel hole and how close the lever is. Brainstorming makes me think might want to chop the lever in 2 places if I go this route. 2) This idea is definitely a little trickier and more expensive but could work. I could fabricate a custom shifter plate for the Hurst shifter to attach further back on the tail housing. This means I would likely have to extend the shift rods as well, but that isn't the most difficult thing. Even if I had to make custom rods I'm confident I can do that. I also realize that I would have to cut up the top of the transmission tunnel for the shifter to go through. I have ideas on this, but would like to see if you guys have pictures first before discussing this route. Both of these options are much more doable than engine/trans set back and make more sense for a primarily street driven car. I can't emphasize enough my motivation to do something. I want to be happy driving the car when this project is over. All related pictures would be extremely helpful and appreciate!
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On a seasoned motor I had a head gasket fail due to crud that had built up in the coolant passages. The engine wasn't even overheating if you can believe it, but water was seeping into oil slowly... When the block and heads were cleaned I was told all kinds of sediment had come out of the cooling passages. If you plug the bottom most passages and pour regular old vinegar and let it sit in there that can help. The hard part is keeping the vinegar topped off without having it leaking out, which is tricky...
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I got a t handle tool similar to the one pictured above only with one additional bend. Only one shop in town had ila t handle hook tool and the employee said he couldn't remember the last time they sold one. I hate to admit it but it worked perfectly. Thanks for all the tips everyone, what worked for me was holding the bulb in the bucket with the trim ring loosely attached via screws and then use the tool to stretch the spring to the tab. Apparently the extra bend and t handle solved two of the issues why I couldn't get it done before. And sorry for the infantile posts...I was pretty frustrated. I guess I just added another tool to the trunk tool kit!
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I broke a second (brand new) hook tool right now trying to do this. Someone please tell me why they chose to use such a strong spring. I will buy one more tool and if that doesn't work I'm finding different springs. I'm pretty sure a softer spring would be fine... When everything is in place, and I pull the spring, both the end of the tool and the spring end hit the back edge of the tab on the trim ring. This moves it forward making attachment impossible. Compared to other cars I've worked on classic mustangs have always been near the top for ease of access/ designed to be maintained or worked on. Why they designed the lamps this way I don't know...I'm already dreading future bulb replacement... I'm shocked to read some of you haven't had problems with this before!
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Ok you guys... I have done many different projects when it comes to vehicles. Not my first try, try again, try again scenario. I am so bleeping frustrated trying to get the dang lamps and inner trim on. I borrowed a hook tool from a friend, and on my second attempt the thing broke. After the last however long ago I decided I wouldn't try again for awhile to let my anger subside. I have to ask this question again, is it necessary to have such a strong spring? Before the hook tool broke I was still not reaching the hole in the trim. I am not only worried about repairing a second trim ring, but also worried I'll snap the headlight bucket where the spring rides. Steaming right now! I tried both ways (starting the 2 screws and not starting the screws). I am almost at the point where I'm spring shopping....
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I am in Aptos CA
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Hi, I have original low back bucket seats from my 69' that for forum members I will give away. I dont need them and throwing them away is a waste. Trying to clean some stuff out. They work fine, but the upholstery is very bad. The frames are good. Does not include sliders. I will ship if you want that but I imagine it will be pricey. Someone take them off my hands please!
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Its air in the line (s) somewhere. Rebleed them is my recommendation.
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OK thanks I will try that.
