lanky

What engine do you have OP? I junkyarded a 3g and had to clock it very different from factory for my 69 351w. I fabricated a 3" extension for my lower alt. bracket with a piece of 3/8" thick steel with 2 holes in it. I used a series of washers to properly align the alt pulley. I actually wired it right the first time and it's been working very well! I got a 130A because I read that at idle they give you much more juice. Steady 14.3 ish volts all rpms. Bad pic but it's all I have on my phone.

Mine rubbed the valence with 6.7 degrees of caster with 17x8 235/45/17. I am sure my wheelbase is more than 108" like factory. A Dremel took care of the valence rubbing.

I see your point and don't disagree. On a non stroked *street* 351w running 6500rpm or lower I just can't imagine there is that much more power with the air gap. Just my opinion.

Good info to post! Looks like this is the video I remembered So it was a SBC not ford, but it was a 460hp 360ci with 11.25:1 compression, 292comp cam which isn't small, and 215cc dart heads. I would classify this as a moderate to highly modified street motor. I have no idea if the cross sections were different then or now with SBC stuff. Either way I think it shows most people aren't sacrificing much choosing an RPM on their street motors. With a stroker...probably.

Buckeye: That is the first I have heard of runner size being different between the two. I believe hotrodgarage tested air gap vs rpm and the rpm was only down a few numbers, and they actually were equivalent when they milled the divider on the rpm a little. I can't remember which engine was used during testing, but i would think on most forum guys' motors the difference in performance would be minimal..but hey I am no expert.

If you look at the edelbrock website, the 351w versions of the standard RPM and the air gap rpm show the following carb height measurements: RPM (front of carb base :4.3" , back of carb base: 4.9") Air Gap (5.3" and 6.19") Thats a sizeable difference. Can I ask why no one uses the non air gap version? I actually have one with a summit carb that I haven't installed yet, but reading from people's troubles with the air gap I am sure glad I didn't buy that version. I will be attemping to run a 1/2" spacer but if fitments a problem I might mill the carb base a little. I know I will be looking for a new carb base when install begins.

Ditch the KYBs. I had them for less than 1000 miles and hated then. Switched to Bilstein sports, much better.

Looking for an original Ford 164 tooth manual block plate aka separator plate. Thank you

Make sure your pulleys are aligned before going belt shopping. With my 351w (non ac) borgeson pump (69' heads) I had to grind the pump mount pedestals quite a bit to get everything lined up properly. Afterwards I needed a .75"" shorter belt. The alignment didn't even look off that much.

With the AFR bolt spacing your options are pretty limited. Even 1-3/4" primaries might bottleneck the heads if the headers have standard spacing. Do post up any information you come across for future reference though.

Just from looking at the pictures, I can tell you right now those aren't going to fit unless you have eliminated the shock towers. With your needs, FPA is probably the only luck you'll have with 1-7/8" primaries with the AFR bolt spacing.

I don't intend to test you in any way, just to learn :) It just struck me how widespread the use of diaphragm clutches are, that's all. Thanks for clearing up the mix/match question, that helps me out and probably other people inexperienced with clutch options. Out of curiosity, was that a recent visit? They still use asbestos? I thought it wasn't tolerated anymore. In single disc form, which clutch discs do you guys like for street/track vehicles? Twin disc are $$$$ Sorry about hijacking the thread, had these questions simmering for awhile

Barnett I see diaphragm clutches used on high end ($$$) performance vehicles, and it begs the question in these high end applications if a long style clutch was better why do they still use diaphragm? I am really just trying to see my way through this and to understand. Can I ask where your last statement is from? I am no expert obviously, and don't know enough about clutches to mix and match pressure plates and clutch discs across brands because I would fear non compatibility in the designs. Will any clutch disc for a sbf for example work with any pressure plate for a sbf? Assuming the diameters are correct for both of course.

I am curious why you guys dislike diaphragm style clutches with your cars. Was fitment an issue? Function? Adjustment? I have been considering primarily diaphragm due to the fact that it's the new 'standard' for most cars, lighter pedal effort, and supposedly they're more efficient in terms of force (less pedal effort lost to the clutch than long style clutches). Please correct me if this is off base. Barnett what is it about McCleods street disc you don't like? I was actually leaning towards using one when the time comes.

Cool. Looks like I'll get new door panels from TMI.

You say CalMustang sells Distinctive Industries door panels and that they're the best. Are these what you mean? http://www.cal-mustang.com/product/1969-light-blue-2-2-door-panel-kit/interior-interior-soft-trim-door-panels They also have TMI which *look* like better quality. http://www.cal-mustang.com/product/12034/tmi-upholstery-and-soft-trim

My OE, rust-free scissor jack in those exact circumstances folded on me. I even had lubricated the threads prior to using it. I thought I was imagining the car moving down while I was working on tire, but stepped back a second and "oh s#@+!" It was bending right in front of my eyes. Left lug nuts loose, called a friend to bring a pump jack. Was on perfectly level surface, and prior to that incident the jack was nearly unused. My car was garaged over a decade before it was in my family, and the jack looked pristine. It's been turned into a lamp or something by recyclers now. I warn everyone not to trust theirs!

I understand if you are chasing originality, but otherwise don't bother with the factory scissor jacks from a function perspective. I nearly died from one failing and will never use one again. It was the OE one too. I never bothered looking for another because I have AAA

I appreciate everyone's experience. Thanks guys. I will update this thread as needed.

That's a good tip Shep69! How did you fasten the pvc? I'm having a hard time imagining where it mounted.

I can't afford to do the '70 windows otherwise I would. So you think I shouldn't unglue the front window bracket? That would save me some time, but man would I be upset if that one ever came loose. Probably going to order everything today, leaning towards WCCC products.

Appreciate all the info guys. It looks like leaving the factory adhesive as a guide is a good idea, how should I go about cleaning it up though? Just some sand paper and a good wipe down after? Because the front bracket is still attached I will try to separate it with a razor like WCCC did. I'll try re- mushrooming the regulator and see if it tightens up, I suspect one of the arms is bent and will have to restraighten that as well. Flipping the guide pieces is genius and I will try that. What do the vapor barriers do? It seems like they would lock humidity inside the doors, or do they just prevent the door panels from moisture? Which supplier do you recommend for the weatherstripping, felt lines? I've had bad luck with items not fitting in the past.

Do you have any '70 door glass?

Which regulator is best? The dynacorn one looks the best, but that's just based on pictures/description. I will definitely get new guides, but is it worth it to buy a new window runs? Do they wear out? List so far: regulator guides various weatherstripping glue

While working on my car today the DS window glass came unglued at the rear bracket. I genuinely don't know what made this happen, the car was on jackstands on the frame rails with window half rolled down and suddenly I heard a bad sound. Yes my window has been rattling for years, is that not normal? (joking). The glass is okay which is great. I am sure that since the whole glass assembly has to come out that now is the time to replace any worn parts, like the regulator and my decrepit window/door weatherstripping. I would like to know what I should go ahead and purchase besides the obvious (regulator, weatherstripping, and glue). I don't have the money for a bolt in glass replacement right now. Unless someone has a deal and isn't too far away. Which glue have people had good luck with? I will read every existing forum and watch every video before I ask dumb questions about dis/reassembly and adjustment. I already marked where the bolts are in the slots but haven't done any disassembly yet. Mainly I don't want to forget to buy certain parts I can't think of, as I want to purchase said parts asap.