lanky

Mine is a '69 351w, I bought the Borgeson kit with the saginaw style pump. I had to modify the bracket that came with the kit, it was way off being inline with the crankshaft and water pump pulleys. For me the belt has to be really freaking tight to not slip during parking manuevers, but if its not slipping assist is fine. FYI the hoses Borgeson includes are not great, they should be making them at least an inch longer than they are.

Thanks for the info. Between the steering box, future brake booster, and headers I am skeptical of even trying to make it work. I was just curious if others had solutions. Awhile back I started a slave cylinder bracket that I think is going to work, but haven't had the resources to test it yet. I will do a write up on it if it works for sure.

I have heard a person can modify a z bar setup to work with borgeson, but haven't really seen pictures. Has anyone here modified their own or bought the now available one from ORP? Out of curiosity, if someone was running a z-bar setup can they still run a diaphragm pressure plate? I believe the answer is yes, but that a return spring somewhere gets removed. Under dash on pedal I think?

I would take it off your hands for a Benjamin.

Just out of curiosity did it solve the spill-over issue too (when driving away)? I know if the pump doesn't stop soon enough when I drive away fuel actually spills out the back.

I totally agree. I have noticed that a lot of race cars that DONT run big diameter wheels have incredibly thick brake rotors to make up for the smaller diameter. But yes, street cars are totally different. If I could go back in time, I would actually not run the 13" brake setup that I have because it makes the unsprung weight greater and makes good aluminum wheels a lot more $$$.

I bet it is just binding. Maybe I have bad luck, but every transmission I've removed has binded after it backs off a little. You did take the transmission out of gear right? If you can fit some kind of straps in between the block and bellhousing for pulling power they are nice because at least you know you won't break or dent anything with straps and hand-power...unless the transmission flies off onto you! This worked for me with a jack under transmission with a friend gently rocking the trans while I pulled straps.

I was referring to professional racing and I meant to say production-based race cars, my bad. For production cars yes it's mainly a looks thing. I do consider 50 series low profile though, and certainly MOST race cars in general don't use smaller sidewalls than that. I'm assuming around that size is the sweet spot between tire characteristics and still fitting massive brake setups.

While I agree with what you and other are saying...I go to Laguna Seca a lot and many race cars run low profile tires now. In the case of our cars it isn't necessarily beneficial, but I had to say something for the sake of accuracy. I see a lot of high end production stuff running low profile tires (ferrari, porsche, bmw, etc etc)

Yes caster helps return to center, no doubt about it. When I had a manual steering setup with the roller idler and about 4 degrees of caster the return to center was excellent, VERY hard to steer at low speed though with 235/45/17's and good tires. One day I may go back to manual steering and would definitely try 3 degrees of caster to see if that's easier to steer.

Here's how I fixed this issue without cutting/bending rods. I took out the provided nylon washer on part#15 in above diagram. Then I cut an aluminum can into a circle and drilled a hole, filed it smooth and used that. Redneck fix maybe...but hey it works. Hopefully that would provide you enough clearance like it did me.

If you haven't already removed it, don't worry about it. Thanks for everyones help appreciate it.

It looks like you cut off the inside ends of the bracket, where it "hugs" inside of radiator... is that correct? I was thinking maybe I could bend that part of the bracket straight, and then rebend it so that it effectively leaves more room in that area. I wouldn't mind having to cut up some scrap rubber, if the bracket fits correctly the rubber should stay put under pressure. I bet the factory rubbers won't work with the thicker radiator in my case. I would be curious to know your "B" dimension if you have a chance, since you said it was wider than the factory bracket.

Very helpful thanks Mike65

Can anyone give me the dimensions in the picture? I have an aftermarket radiator and I am wondering if a stock bracket will work with it (I never had this style bracket with my car)

Totally normal. They loosen up with use...often requiring redoing steering alignment at least once while the fresh rubber breaks in. I don't know what you meant by 2 pieces though. You should install the grease zerk, and squirt grease in it while using a wrench or pliers to rotate it, gets the grease in there that way

I would recommend the following for a street car: Either factory springs with stiff (aka gas a just) shocks OR lowering springs with a slightly softer shock (Bilsteins are worth the $) streetortrack strut rods Roller perches from ORP Factory arms with 1" arning drop or factory arms w/wedge kit and 1.5-1.75" drop Bumpsteer tie rod kit (many brands)--hassle to 'tune' correctly but totally help imo I have ORP track roller arms (uca's/lca's) with 1.75" arning drop, Bilstein shocks, SoT strut rods, cut lowering springs, bump steer kit. Handles awesome, but the roller suspension stuff sure does transmit a lot of noise through the chassis.

If you do decide to split parts up and ship I am interested in the radiator mount. You can pm me if that works, otherwise no worries.

I agree that 2.25" is adequate, but at least on my car the crush bends were pretty bad! So when you said factory system, I immediately thought of the bends that my factory system had and imagined how poorly the exhaust flows from said bends. But yes 2.25" is plenty if its a decent system.

If you are spending the coin on headers, why cork your exhaust with the factory system? Just run manifolds if you are not going to have a good flowing exhaust. Otherwise you're getting all the increased volume with little performance benefit.

They are internally regulated thus no external regulator. I ran the stator wire to the left side of the solenoid. I used this schematic:

Just like Ridge Runner said, randomly its working today. I made no changes to anything, yet it fixed itself.....weird

This is my $.02, the factory alternators are obviously pretty low amperage. There's not a lot to power electrically in these cars as they came from the factory. That said there's a reason they chose the amperage they did for the factory alternators. 95A is only about ~30-40 more than factory give or take. Since Countour fans supposedly pull a constant 30-35 amps and peak at very high amperage when turned on, I didn't want to tax the alternator near its amperage limit. Would there have been issues? I genuinely don't know. However since I have upgraded my headlight wiring/headlights with a relay system, and added additional fuse boxes/gauges/components to the car I thought it best to step up to the bigger 130A unit and have that extra capacity, even if only for lower taxation on the alternator. Alternators do burn out I might add. Now that I have done the swap, I obviously could do it all over again much quicker and making the extension bracket for the 130A to fit correctly wasn't hard at all. I was junkyarding the alternator/wiring so if I'm paying a flat price at pick n pull why not get the more powerful one! Tim Taylor style...I took the nice 4ga charge wire and boot/terminal from the car I took it from too and trimmed it to fit with a new end for the starter solenoid (battery side).

In the course of a day, where I made no changes or updates to my computer, I went from being able to reply/start threads using Chrome to not being able to do either. I tried rebooting, updating to latest version of Chrome, no luck. Other browsers work fine, and this literally changed over the period of a few hours and I have no idea why. Can someone explain this? Other forums reply/start thread is working fine, only 1969stang is the issue!

No I am not. I wired up the alternator directly to the wires that used to go to the VR. This stuff rests there now.