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Everything posted by lanky

  1. Buckeye thats a good take on it. I guess it just stuck out in my mind from a marketing standpoint. My background in business/marketing makes their strategy seem strange, I get it from the parts/components sharing aspect though. Saves tons of time/cost to do this like most industries. Not sure how Luk decides when/where they want to market higher end or specialty clutches as "Luk". I mean...Mustangs have been produced for 5 decades, a very long time in the automotive world.. And people have been hot rodding them from the start. Yet you don't see "Luk performance mustang clutches" (as an example) marketed as such despite a huge market existing, and them making the components. But you do see high end Luk stuff for some cars. Now clutch assembly companies, which is what they are really doing, are filling the gap in the market. Not saying they don't engineer any of their stuff, or that component matching / QA testing is easy.
  2. I purchased a Centerforce II clutch this time around. Guess what's stamped into the pressure plate? So apparently Luk makes the components for McLeod and Centerforce. I am really curious where the value added lies with these brands. Does the value come from testing? For different vehicles I've seen really high end clutches marketed as luk...so why do they not market their own clutches in general as luk? I've seen pricey Luk dual disc setups for other cars...are they also making the Centerforce DF and McLeod Twin clutches? Nobody ever tells you this stuff.
  3. So I understand how a pcv system evacuates crankcase vapors, but I still have a question: 1) What is the difference (in terms of function) between an oil filler/breather)cap that: A) IS vented (holes in bottom of it) -- connected to a hose to clean-side of air cleaner B) IS NOT vented (no holes underneath)--- connected to a hose to clean-side of air cleaner Since this is the side of the pcv system that fresh air is drawn through, wouldn't you want all of that air to be filtered? Or are those holes there to escape sudden rises in crankcase pressure (if that even happens)? Seems like the holes would increase chances of a leak/mist. To all you out there, yes I am referring to the side that DOESN'T have the pcv valve. I understand the pcv valve gets connected to manifold vacuum ideally at the carb base.
  4. What thickness flange are they? 5/16" ? Are the headers ports too small for the dart heads?
  5. I have read of plenty of people loving their diaphragm clutches. That said, I would love concrete information on how much travel (at the fork) each one requires to fully disengage. Barnett those centrifugul weights supposedly reduce the pedal effort at higher rpms right?
  6. Well since I have to return this clutch because it is damaged, I am thinking I am going to shell a little extra out and go for a centerforce. I'm confident their clutches are designed from scratch for performance applications (of different levels of course).
  7. BrianConway hit the nail on the head. Luk does make high end clutches, at least that's what I read online (vettes etc) but when you're buying from a performance oriented supplier like McLeod I thought I would be getting something else.
  8. Hello, I recently received my clutch from McLeod (75112) and the pressure plate has Luk stamped on it. I have to return the clutch anyways as the friction surface has damage on it, but now I am considering going with a centerforce unit instead. Luk makes cheap clutches... why in the world did I pay 2X + for something branded as Mcleod? Did anyone know this already?
  9. Kits from tcp, unisteer, Randall's, flaming river, etc do not require shock tower elimination. Cradles yes, but I referred to shock towers. Apparently with the FR kit you can even keep your cross member which I didn't know.
  10. Many/most racks don't require shock tower elimination. Since I read of other people with the centering problems, it isn't a one time occurrence type of issue. Same with leaky pumps, which I should add they haven't changed. All I can do is inform others of my experience.
  11. If you want a power rack you can't find anything for the same price as a borgeson setup, however in retrospect I still wish I shelled out the extra $$ and went rack the first time. That said, I haven't tried their newer 14:1 ratio boxes. My pump has ~2000 miles and is really noisy. I had to trim the pump mount spacers quite a bit for the pulleys to line up properly...much more than I should have had to for a bolt on kit. I can't emphasize enough how bad the steering feel is. The car doesn't want to go straight (especially at freeway speeds) despite multiple alignments at a good shop and tons of caster.
  12. Just for the sake of conversation, I've been running a 130A alternator with factory bracket setup (just made an intermediate bracket). With my contour fans, upgraded headlights, 2 additional fuseboxes etc no signs of belt slippage. I used a late model alternator and swapped my pulley over. To be added later is an ignition box, and if I ever have the money maybe efi...
  13. Barnett what I meant by my comment is that if he already has tailpipes and is smelling exhaust at highway speeds that changing the tailpipes setup won't help. Unless his current tailpipes end somewhat underneath the car/trunk. Yes changing the tailpipes can have an effect at idle or even lower speed cruising.
  14. I agree with bryonbush 100% Hoses too short Steering feel is awful (worse than factory system) Had to modify my Baer tracker tie rod kit to work with it (unlike the factory gearbox) Pump leaks (admittedly my leak is slow, but still) Pump is super noisy (about same as factory ford pump Return to center is really bad (I have 6.7 degrees of caster...it's a bandaid solution) Included brackets are not a very sturdy design from a stiffness standpoint see If I had a redo-rack and pinion without a doubt in my mind.
  15. If your tailpipes run out to the back, turndowns won't help the problem. Put simply there has to be a leak somewhere that allows you to the smell it while driving. You said you checked the exhaust and headers with a shopvac, did you test them together? Maybe the collector gasket/flange is causing it? If your afr is rich, clean any efi sensors with sensor-safe cleaner, check for any leaks in intake tract. Where in exhaust system is o2 sensor placed?
  16. I forgot to add one thing: I strongly recommend against Walker mufflers. I had a brand new one last less than a year before exhaust was coming out of the pinch seams. Not sure if they have welded one's, but they manufacture for dynomax and I think some of those are welded. There are also those mufflers with valves that open and close based on either vacuum or exhaust backpressure. I would never use one, but worth looking into maybe. With a 2.5" system routing the exhaust for 3 mufflers (2 reg 1 transverse) would be difficult to say the least. You wouldn't be able to run very long of a transverse muffler due to the curves of the pipes, maybe a 14"er would work...not sure. If I can't do the above when I have a system made, I will definitely run some sort of resonator/glasspacks (however small) right after the rear axle. They wouldn't do much, but with straight through design mufflers any extra can't hurt. I really won't debate this last part if anyone disagrees, but everything I have read with actual data shows that during cruising x-pipes typically are a little quieter than h-pipes (with everything else the same).
  17. I have some input on this topic. I have spent a lot of time trying to figure out if a non-restrictive exhaust can be quiet...IMO it's impossible *with classic mustangs* because of the space available in the exhaust system. Especially once you're above ~300hp. I once thought turbo mufflers were the way to go, and they are definitely a good option. However for the volume they do have significant restriction at higher rpms and since they are NOT quiet I have decided high quality straight-through mufflers are my choice. Optimally (for me) would also include either with glasspacks at tailpipes, glasspacks before the mufflers (only really short ones would fit here), some kind of dual in/dual out muffler added behind axle (transverse) etc etc. Some cars with space for larger (or more) mufflers can produce high power and remain relatively tame, but I think with our cars it's more difficult. I agree with the post about sound deadener, that makes a huge difference.
  18. If you are certain you don't want to switch carbs, you can run any aluminum intake you want with a 2 barrel adapter so your carb works properly. If weight savings is your concern, I bet an aluminum 4 BBL carb is close to the same weight as a factory 2bbl. That said, the factory Autolite 2100s work great and I understand if you want to keep it. I would suggest the mosy mild aluminum intake you can find, like an Edelbrock performer (not performer RPM) or an old offenhauser if you can find one.
  19. HAHA well I am definitely confused now. I think you mean the yoke length?
  20. Just measured my small block toploader. Looks like exactly 14" if you put tape measure from rear of tailhousing diagonally to where tailhousing meets case. Meaning I didn't measure with a square on the rear side of tailhousing. Hope that helps.
  21. I think they're different for a 351w. If they're not, I think I have a pair I would be willing to sell. Are there not available reproductions?
  22. I plan on mounting mine under the passenger side dash since there's more room on that side. I think cleaner looking is always the best, unless function is sacrificied. MSD says it's fine to extend the leads as long as you upsize each lead 1 size. I have read glove boxes are a terrible idea because air flow IS important. In that regard, make sure it's away from your heating ducts if you do mount it inside. As far as where to go through the firewall...I'm open to ideas. Admittedly I've already put more holes in mine than I should have for wires. EDIT: don't forget to set your limiter before final mounting! Turning the knobs could be difficult if its under dash etc
  23. Wait a minute, crown vic rear disc brakes fit a 9" !?
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