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lanky

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Posts posted by lanky

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Right now I have fiero seats installed. I made simple brackets to move the seats rearward 2-2.5" (can't remember right now) with mustang sliders.

    I did this because I'm 6'5. I know that's how far I moved them back because I specifically measured from the front of the back rests (NOT the mounting holes). No the rear seats will not fit a human now. The seats are actually really comfy and I haven't even redone mine.

    I also had blown out original seats before, but my fiero setup is definitely lower than before by about 1/2" to 3/4", but this actually made the steering wheel too long a reach even for me. Luckily I had an aftermarket wheel and bought a quick release (added ~2")

    Despite all this, when I get around to it I will be making/modding brackets to put Corbeau gtsii seats in. I got them brand new for a steal, they have way higher side bolsters, adjustable lumbar, and have a higher back/neck rest which I like.

    As they come, the Corbeaus sit higher than the fiero seats (unsure how much). Corbeau can lower the seat bottoms one inch by cutting the seat foam. The price is reasonable actually, but after shipping cost I may have that done locally.

    Lastly, I would have bought those Sparcos in the pics above, but I was concerned they wouldn't be tall enough for my giraffe neck.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    EDIT: Apology, I misunderstood the initial question. I did what I said, but not to the front of radiator support. I was thinking 'mounted directly to radiator support', as-in using the ears on the radiator to mount directly to support. Didn't read 'in front of' --apologies

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Maybe common wasn't correct, but desirable=$. I checked out Perogie, definitely bookmarking all possibilities. I've had decent luck finding parts on eBay in the past, and part of me is hoping a decent rebuildable booster will pop up.

    I went ahead and ordered a booster bracket. Right now I'm leaning towards Cardone #54-73202 which looks correct, and are very reasonably priced even if it only lasted me 5 years. I do question the finish on it though.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I know of them, everyone likes their service. My problem is that questionable cores (rust/pitting/missing parts) are being sold for hundreds of dollars and it's a gamble. 

    I am not against an original at all, but I have a problem shelling that kind of money out. I haven't been able to find a reasonably priced core or original, because everyone seems to know they aren't that common.

    JayEstes reacted to this

  12. Posted · Report reply

    So that tool is basically the same as the factory manual minus the dial gauge. It's hard for me to imagine getting the length correct within .003" like in the manual. Will have to ask more q's when I cross that bridge.

    On another note, aren't both the Midland and Bendix factory boosters dual diaphragm? I noticed tuff stuff only makes single diaphragm for our cars. Dual is safer correct? Or is dual a 'feel' thing?

  13. Posted · Report reply

    On 5/2/2019 at 2:51 PM, smh00n said:

    That pushrod length is critical. It cost me months and $$$ trying to figure it out.

    In the end I fudged it. I put a straight edge across the face of the booster to see the pushrod depth and then compared that to the depth of the piston iside the master cylinder and calculated the differnce  which is how much the booster pushrood should protrude. Not exactly science but I managed to get it right and I have good brakes.

    When I got the car that dimension was wrong and it was like an on/off switch and really violent in brake application.

    In the on/off situation, that was because the pushrod was adjusted too short correct?

    Appreciate the info on what you guys have bought. Good to have options.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Still good to hear that. I've decided I'll go with a rebuilt Bendix-style booster (not original). I'm not concerned with factory matching parts, just want a quality unit that fits well. Thanks. 

    Now I need to learn the best way to check booster pushrod adjustment when I get a booster. Factory manual uses a specialty tool I'm pretty sure doesn't exist anymore...

  19. Posted · Report reply

    This year a lot of my car will be changed. I am swapping my car to a 4 speed toploader from FMX, and the pedal assembly is going to be removed during the process. 

    I still have a long way to go, but I do plan on tracking and autocrossing the car when I'm done. I already have the 13" Cobra brake swap up front, and a 1" master cylinder. System is well bled and the pedal travel is perfect, but I find that anything beyond cruising and the braking becomes tiresome very quickly. I am pretty set on power brakes.

    I know everyone prefers the original boosters, but they are already expensive and usually in bad shape. Yes I know there are rebuilders but that just adds to the already high cost.

    Has anyone had a good experience with an aftermarket unit? Which one? I would also be interested if someone purchased a master/booster combo that worked well for them.

    Generally I avoid anything made/rebuilt by Cardone....

    Lastly, should I avoid 9" boosters for fitment reasons? I have a borgeson steering box.

    Examples on summit:

    Tuff Stuff (#2225NB)--has good reviews and is pretty cheap at $169

    Scott Drake (#c7zz2005bdx)--which some people seem to have issues with  $260

    SSBC (#28150) apparently only for manual transmissions??--$279

     

     

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I converted to a late model  Ford 130A alternator when I switched to electric cooling fans. 

    Simple install, eliminated the external regulator, works fantastic even at idle, my pulley off my old alternator swapped on perfectly, and since they used these alternators in tons of popular models I can get a replacement at any parts store if I get stranded--> I want to road trip so this aspect was big for me.

    I junkyarded mine and it was cheap, and still works great. I have a 351w and made a simple extension bracket for the existing bracket for fitment.

    I tried reclocking the alternator case (to avoid needing the small bracket I made) bc the case interfered slightly with the cylinder head. Reclocking is totally doable (I've seen images) but I gave up in fear of breaking the aluminum case bc mine wouldn't budge.

    The bracket is a 3.5" long x 1" wide piece of 3/8" steel with 2 holes. Simple.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Well I pulled the column out when I did the borgeson swap (had to) and it looked fine to me. No excessive play or anything. 

    My original switch worked for original 85xxx miles

    When my replacement switches, there are a few issues I've encountered:

    Self cancellers break, every one I've owned does this eventually...cheap plastics :(  

    Contacts for horn button work intermittently, or honk while turning (due to poor design or lack of ability to center the switch...see below

    Had to file mounting holes on switch to properly center switch around column

    When wheel is installed loosely (wiggling still) switch works fine, when wheel is tightened securely either horn goes on or horn contacts make terrible scraping sound from bind, despite the use of dialectic grease (no it wasn't runny)

    I know I've purchased at least one SD brand one, one from npd, and I can't remember the other. I'm tired of spending the money on expensive switches that keep failing. For the money I could make a cool switch panel, some may hate this idea but I'm not trying to remain original. 

  24. Posted · Report reply

    This may not be an answer you like, but I strongly recommend going with a 4r70w if you want an automatic with overdrive. The fmx flexplate and crossmember work for the 4r70w swap as well, and the factory hard lines can be cut and modified to work with the 4R. I think I remember that the slots in the crossmember just need to be widened a bit.

    There is the possibility of driveline angle issues with the gear vendors tailshaft, but this isn't always the case. The GV units have good reputations, but their overdrive is .80 I believe and the 4r70w is numerically lower (this is a good thing for highway cruising/mpg).  That means you can get numerically higher rear gears and have the benefits of more acceleration, without increasing highway cruise rpm.

    Not to mention a 4r70w by itself is a ton lighter than an fmx with a GV unit, and since it has lower rotating mass that also means more HP eaten turning the driveline = less efficiency as well.

    I was damn near doing this swap myself, when I came across a great deal on a toploader...so I'm prepping for that now.

    Even if they are a good product, which is what I have read, to me they really don't make sense.

    mwye0627, Mach1 Driver and RPM reacted to this
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