lanky
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Posts posted by lanky
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I definitely had no choice and had to trim a bit for the rag joint to clear without interference. Luckily the column is pretty easy to remove.
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What condition is your dash pad in?
Pics would be fantastic. Thanks
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Actually I did have to trim the smaller OD metal tube for the steering joint to have clearance while turning. I cut off around 1/2" or so.
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While I haven't done this, everything I've read says there is power to get from thermactor removal. Mostly ppl think it's not worth it because it takes a lot of time. Imo I bet it would be worth 20 crank HP, potentially more depending on how far you go.
People say not to touch the CC's, remove the humps, and port match for good results.
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Fmx transmissions definitely have both a rod and a modulator. My FMX has always engaged in gear a little rough, but it doesn't sound as bad as the OP. It still works pretty damn well for an original unrebuilt transmission. My engine is 0.030" over stock 351w with stock converter and idle is set properly, and the shift rod adjusted properly.
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I would buy this if I was converting to discs right now.
http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-12-Trans-Am-Front-Disk-Brake-Kit-pr-24455.html
Grabber70Mach reacted to this -
If shipping is included, I'd be interested in the starter. PM me if that works
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Hey everyone, I'm replacing all the weatherstripping on my 69 Coupe and I am missing the quarter window beltlines (inner and outer).
Those are the only bits I need, originals might be ok if in good shape! Thank you
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I did the 3G conversion, it was pretty straightforward and it works great. I hated the thought of getting stranded because a part store wouldn't have a replacement ready, hence the 3 G. I was able to use my factory alternator brackets with one intermediate bracket to reach a little further.
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Thank you, that's pretty much the only thing I could think of. Appreciate it
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Sorry I should have stated the bracket is something for the quarter window on my coupe. Is it simply a resting point for the inner quarter?
I think I'm going to use brake pin grease since it doesn't dry out like lithium.
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1) Everyone still grease everything with white lithium grease, or is there something better (brake pin grease/sil-glyde etc)?
2) What does the pictured piece do? (Small bracket with sheet metal screw to left of window in picture). On my car it wasn't even fastened down when I removed inner quarter.
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Definitely get the street valved ones. I have the sport valves and they are stiffer than I expected.
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Yea before anyone can determine what's going on alignment specs are needed.
Maybe related...look at my profile/threads to read my experience with the borgeson system if you like.
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I have to respectfully disagree with you RPM, if I ever drive my car hard for more than a few minutes IMO it's very tiring...leg shaking afterwards tiring. For cruising it's no problem at all. Before we get into a MC bore discussion, mine is sized correctly (1"). Leaves just enough pedal travel left when front brakes begin to lock.
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I have yet to install mine, but I also have an explorer MC that will fit with a booster. I know this because the MC I have now (cobra) is exactly the same length and I've seen pictures of it fitted with a dual diaphragm booster.
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Admittedly I haven't raced, but I did run my car with manual steering for awhile. I have no idea how anyone recommends this/ says it's not that bad.
I am not weak, but I found the effort so high it made me nervous for quick/emergency manuvers.
That said, most trans am guys somehow have manual...
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Someone take this, the guy has it listed for free!!!
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/d/hayward-free-1969-mustang/6960852205.html
Caseyrhe and 69RavenConv reacted to this -
I replaced mine on my coupe, but its the same. I just put a thin strip of adhesive to prevent it from running. I used acetone to clean the surfaces, and the rubber, before installing. Worked great
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Your numbers aren't bad from what I've seen/read before, but I'd bet there's more on the table with a cam. You're making tons of torque below 2500rpm which is dang good!
Depending on the heads and CR, your torque curve is extremely flat-- indicating it could probably handle a cam with more duration to breathe better up top and get more power yet still be very streetable. Need to know CR/clearances Notice how around 4200-5000rpm the HP curve has already flattened a bunch. I'd bet some tweaks could net you 20hp or more between that range in the powerband--which is alot!
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Ill have one available later this year if you haven't found one already. I'll give it to you for free, but it won't be removed from my car for a while. Still have some shuffling around of the car before transmission is removed...
Also will have a good working FMX for free. Does it leak? Of course!! That's why it's always had fresh fluid in it and probably why it still works so well
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I have to say, those are awesome wheels! Match the color scheme of your car perfectly.
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3 pedal: ok no rush. I am interested in all the parts to be clear (run, booster, boot, boot trim, 69 DS regulator)
Mach one 69 shock absorber advice
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
Just to put it out there, I have Bilstein shocks with the "sport" valving. Those with the common .620 drop springs were to stiff for a street car IMO. I have to replace my springs anyway so I'll be getting softer ones, and I imagine the combo will be a lot better with different (softer) springs.