lanky
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Posts posted by lanky
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If you sell the KRC pump consider me first in line...price dependent of course.
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I used the pump included in the kit. Which is noisy, just as noisy as my factory pump. At least fluid doesn't spray out of the filler neck like my factory pump did. Mine was from almost exactly 2.5 yrs ago.
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Just to have on forum record, I ran up to 6.5 degrees of caster on my Borgeson setup with the last 10-15% never returning to center. Very frustrating. I'm still trying to figure out what my plan is. AKA caster isn't always the fix apparently.
First I ran manual steering with roller idler, return to center excellent but super high effort to steer at low speeds. Then kept the manual CL and roller idler with Borgeson.
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On 4/16/2021 at 4:10 PM, 1969_Mach1 said:I installed a Borgeson kit on my 196 Mach 1, 351W and 4sp car. The car also has JBA short headers. I installed the Borgeson kit before Open Track Racing offered a modified Z-bar so I had to modify my own. It works just fine. My concerns with the Borgeson power steering:
1. When collapsing the column to fit the Borgeson steering box the inner and outer column shafts fit loosely and rattle. This is because the plastic rings Ford installs to lock the inner and outer column shafts together end up in a new position where they no longer serve part of their purpose. This thread by another member shows the plastic rings for the inner column shaft. Collapsible Steering shaft bushings - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
2. The steering for the most part does not return to center. This bothers some, but I'm okay with it.
3. If you want one finger Cadillac style power steering, then this will be fine. There is absolutely no road feel in the steering wheel. I tried reducing the pump pressure, but it's either Cadillac style power steering or no assist at idle.
I likely would never do the conversion again. And if this ever has any issues I'll go back to the stock steering box.
Nice to hear from someone that shares my opinion on Borgeson setups. I DID go from a roller idler with the factory manual steering (PS box) and a ~15" steering wheel and it was unbearable to turn at lower speeds. Wish I had bought something else as the return to center is awful and the pump is noisy.
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I'm 6'5 using Fiero seats with bracket adapters I made. If I recall correctly, I moved the seat back roughly 2", pretty much as far as I could go with the Fiero seats. Definitely no room for a passenger behind me.
The seats themselves sit quite lower than the factory buckets. Something to keep in mind is that the steering wheel gets further away when you do this, and with a standard column you might need to extend the column with a spacer etc.
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I wonder if the steering arm was shortened at all to quicken the steering--hope so!
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I'm interested in the '69 you have, PM me?
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I have read about 1-2 degrees of pitch during acceleration, but it's pretty impossible to know the exact amount.
Since I put lowering reverse eye leaf springs and new motor mounts I've had a vibration as well. So far I think I have a 3 degree wedge installed, but I stopped there for now bc I'm planning on swapping a toploader in. My angle measurements will change after that.
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This sounds backwards, but if I know the engine bay is hot, I hold the throttle to the floor while cranking the engine. It seems to help with the vapor lock. Not pump, just push and hold.
As soon as it's firing I release the throttle. My car would crank fine, but wouldn't turn over. This trick solved the problem for me.
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Docwork beat me to it, you want both. And yes there are two 'standard' sizes for push in style, among other sizes.
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My repop manual CL fit and functioned perfectly with the factory steering box. All issues started with the borgeson box for me. Before buying the kit, I had read people's install notes and their satisfaction varied from little to complete satisfaction. Bad QC maybe?
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I think I have the answer to this. I also encountered this problem and for my situation I figured it out, and actually wrote a bit (look up my threads) about why this disappointed me.
I'm pretty sure it's the height (up and downwards) of the borgesons splines. The borgeson vs the factory gear box does not put the pitman in the same plane as factory, thus the pitman arm won't/doesnt want to sit down like it should.
I went to manual steering setup first (manual C.L., 70' tie rods/spindles), everything worked great and installed easily/correctly. Aka the issue youre posting about wasn't there. However driving around was way too difficult so I purchased the borgeson kit thinking people liked them.
I noticed the same thing you did during install, but mine may have been slightly less bad of a fit than yours. I also noticed the overall angle AND position of the C.L. changed with the borgeson-- drastically--so much in fact that the tie rods couldn't be adjusted to center the steering properly.
So I had to have my new Baer tracker kit sleeves cut shorter and my inner tie rods just to get the steering centered. This is inexcusable for part fitment if you ask me, and left a bad taste in my mouth as there was no mention of this anywhere in their documentation.
However this obviously does nothing for the issue youre posting about. Ever since the borgeson install, despite (good) realignments, I can't get my car to steer straight (like it did with manual steering) at all. It wants to go left and right but not straight.
Now I'm stuck with an expensive aftermarket system that I don't like, has fit issues, has a pump noisier than the factory Ford pump was, and it doesn't steer straight. If I ever went to a different setup I hope there's enough threads on everything to get the car aligned.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
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On 4/16/2020 at 1:18 PM, Mike65 said:lanky, the brackets I used are Ford stock alternator brackets, aluminum bracket that bolts to the cyl head # - D0OE-10A336-A2, alternator bracket # - D0OE-10156-A, large offset adjuster bracket # - D32AE-10145-DA. I had to use a 3/4" spacer on the bottom alternator bracket bolt so the bracket would be straight. I am using a standard rotation water pump from a 1987 Crown Vic 5.0 & a Dayco # - 5060410 serpentine belt. IIRC the higher amp alternator is a large frame alternator, the 95 amp alternator like the one I got is the smaller frame alternator.
Thank you, if I ever test amperage used in my system maybe I'll switch to the smaller case if I don't need more than 90A (likely not) as it looks much better how yours is setup.
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Every car I've converted from drums to discs, braking power has nothing to do with it. It improves the braking feel, and allows much better braking balance IMO. We all know how much easier servicing discs are too.
Slightly off topic, but I just converted my dd's rear brakes to disc since the drums were warped. Huge improvement even under normal driving conditions (Toyota Solara).
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No return spring needed for hydraulic setups. However different springs can be used to "tune" the feel of the pedal, but hardly anyone does this.
This thread is useful for me because hopefully this summer I'll be installing a MDL setup as well.
stangman69 reacted to this -
On 4/12/2020 at 4:07 AM, Mike65 said:I installed a 95A Ford 3G alternator in my 69 Coupe for the reason that Mach 1 Driver stated above, that if you have a problem with the alternator on the road somewhere you can just go to a parts store & buy a new one.
What bracket is this Mike65? Also, the 90A is the same case size as the 130 right? Mine wouldn't clock into the position you show in the picture, I had to move mine further outward.
I am running a v-belt without slippage or a tensioner, with dual electric contour fans for those reading.
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I bet you would be safe. Only if you went to a high-er rise intake would I expect clearance issues.
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My setup:
70' spindles
Manual steering linkage
Borgeson steering box
Baer tracker bump steer kit (comes with billet aluminum tie rod adjusters)
I have no idea why this is the case, but I actually had to slightly shorten my stock style inner tie rods to get the toe correct on my car. There wasn't enough adjustment. I did all the above stuff at once so I'm not sure why this was the case.
Also, if you go this route, I recommend getting aluminum spanner wrenches so as to protect the adjusters. I made the mistake of trusting the alignment shop, and those fools used locking pliers and scratched up my new parts. I wanted the bump steer adjustment not necessarily the billet adjusters.
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Weird, I must have got a "good one" (Derale pwm controller)- mine worked great. My understanding is that they need to be mounted in an area with good ventilation, so I purposely drilled holes beneath it in the shroud and mounted it with rubber feet for vibration protection and to leave space for air to escape. I'm using Contour dual fan setup which are pretty high amperage.
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I must be losing my mind...
My coupe doesn't have any holes there, and I thought it has a dash indicator saying "brake" that lights up until brake is released.
I will have to check tomorrow for sanity reassurance.
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I couldn't get an email out of him, even after reading he's hard to reach and waiting patiently. I don't think that's good business tbh.
Instead I bought a variable speed fan control from Derale that worked great until I shorted it--100% my fault. Since I'm going to order another one when I'm ready, I'm going to change my mounting setup a bit but it worked perfectly on the shroud.
Power steering pump with TCP rack&pinion
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Fvike, did you need to grind down those mount posts to get the pulley to align properly? In the past I had a similar mount and it was a PITA to align, as I had to torque everything down for it to be in it's actual mounting location. Then see where/how it's misaligned, then unbolt, grind a bit, and redo the process etc...