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lanky

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Everything posted by lanky

  1. Keep in mind, since you're running EFI, they prefer single plane manifolds otherwise the sensors/computer gets confused. Don't take my word for it, read up on this subject. Dual planes disrupt the way they sense air charges, in short
  2. I'm interested in the '69 you have, PM me?
  3. Those look like drum spindles to me
  4. something I wish I was told before I did this, but I can also blame myself for not thinking about it, is not only lower control arm holes but relocating them slightly rearward to increase caster without the wheel being pulled too far forward in the wheel well.
  5. I have read about 1-2 degrees of pitch during acceleration, but it's pretty impossible to know the exact amount. Since I put lowering reverse eye leaf springs and new motor mounts I've had a vibration as well. So far I think I have a 3 degree wedge installed, but I stopped there for now bc I'm planning on swapping a toploader in. My angle measurements will change after that.
  6. This sounds backwards, but if I know the engine bay is hot, I hold the throttle to the floor while cranking the engine. It seems to help with the vapor lock. Not pump, just push and hold. As soon as it's firing I release the throttle. My car would crank fine, but wouldn't turn over. This trick solved the problem for me.
  7. Docwork beat me to it, you want both. And yes there are two 'standard' sizes for push in style, among other sizes.
  8. My repop manual CL fit and functioned perfectly with the factory steering box. All issues started with the borgeson box for me. Before buying the kit, I had read people's install notes and their satisfaction varied from little to complete satisfaction. Bad QC maybe?
  9. I think I have the answer to this. I also encountered this problem and for my situation I figured it out, and actually wrote a bit (look up my threads) about why this disappointed me. I'm pretty sure it's the height (up and downwards) of the borgesons splines. The borgeson vs the factory gear box does not put the pitman in the same plane as factory, thus the pitman arm won't/doesnt want to sit down like it should. I went to manual steering setup first (manual C.L., 70' tie rods/spindles), everything worked great and installed easily/correctly. Aka the issue youre posting about wasn't there. However driving around was way too difficult so I purchased the borgeson kit thinking people liked them. I noticed the same thing you did during install, but mine may have been slightly less bad of a fit than yours. I also noticed the overall angle AND position of the C.L. changed with the borgeson-- drastically--so much in fact that the tie rods couldn't be adjusted to center the steering properly. So I had to have my new Baer tracker kit sleeves cut shorter and my inner tie rods just to get the steering centered. This is inexcusable for part fitment if you ask me, and left a bad taste in my mouth as there was no mention of this anywhere in their documentation. However this obviously does nothing for the issue youre posting about. Ever since the borgeson install, despite (good) realignments, I can't get my car to steer straight (like it did with manual steering) at all. It wants to go left and right but not straight. Now I'm stuck with an expensive aftermarket system that I don't like, has fit issues, has a pump noisier than the factory Ford pump was, and it doesn't steer straight. If I ever went to a different setup I hope there's enough threads on everything to get the car aligned. Let me know if you have any other questions.
  10. Thank you, if I ever test amperage used in my system maybe I'll switch to the smaller case if I don't need more than 90A (likely not) as it looks much better how yours is setup.
  11. Every car I've converted from drums to discs, braking power has nothing to do with it. It improves the braking feel, and allows much better braking balance IMO. We all know how much easier servicing discs are too. Slightly off topic, but I just converted my dd's rear brakes to disc since the drums were warped. Huge improvement even under normal driving conditions (Toyota Solara).
  12. No return spring needed for hydraulic setups. However different springs can be used to "tune" the feel of the pedal, but hardly anyone does this. This thread is useful for me because hopefully this summer I'll be installing a MDL setup as well.
  13. What bracket is this Mike65? Also, the 90A is the same case size as the 130 right? Mine wouldn't clock into the position you show in the picture, I had to move mine further outward. I am running a v-belt without slippage or a tensioner, with dual electric contour fans for those reading.
  14. I bet you would be safe. Only if you went to a high-er rise intake would I expect clearance issues.
  15. My setup: 70' spindles Manual steering linkage Borgeson steering box Baer tracker bump steer kit (comes with billet aluminum tie rod adjusters) I have no idea why this is the case, but I actually had to slightly shorten my stock style inner tie rods to get the toe correct on my car. There wasn't enough adjustment. I did all the above stuff at once so I'm not sure why this was the case. Also, if you go this route, I recommend getting aluminum spanner wrenches so as to protect the adjusters. I made the mistake of trusting the alignment shop, and those fools used locking pliers and scratched up my new parts. I wanted the bump steer adjustment not necessarily the billet adjusters.
  16. Weird, I must have got a "good one" (Derale pwm controller)- mine worked great. My understanding is that they need to be mounted in an area with good ventilation, so I purposely drilled holes beneath it in the shroud and mounted it with rubber feet for vibration protection and to leave space for air to escape. I'm using Contour dual fan setup which are pretty high amperage.
  17. I must be losing my mind... My coupe doesn't have any holes there, and I thought it has a dash indicator saying "brake" that lights up until brake is released. I will have to check tomorrow for sanity reassurance.
  18. I couldn't get an email out of him, even after reading he's hard to reach and waiting patiently. I don't think that's good business tbh. Instead I bought a variable speed fan control from Derale that worked great until I shorted it--100% my fault. Since I'm going to order another one when I'm ready, I'm going to change my mounting setup a bit but it worked perfectly on the shroud.
  19. Just to put it out there, I have Bilstein shocks with the "sport" valving. Those with the common .620 drop springs were to stiff for a street car IMO. I have to replace my springs anyway so I'll be getting softer ones, and I imagine the combo will be a lot better with different (softer) springs.
  20. I definitely had no choice and had to trim a bit for the rag joint to clear without interference. Luckily the column is pretty easy to remove.
  21. What condition is your dash pad in? Pics would be fantastic. Thanks
  22. Actually I did have to trim the smaller OD metal tube for the steering joint to have clearance while turning. I cut off around 1/2" or so.
  23. I have 2.7 or 2.8 (can't remember) gears and I like them.
  24. While I haven't done this, everything I've read says there is power to get from thermactor removal. Mostly ppl think it's not worth it because it takes a lot of time. Imo I bet it would be worth 20 crank HP, potentially more depending on how far you go. People say not to touch the CC's, remove the humps, and port match for good results.
  25. Fmx transmissions definitely have both a rod and a modulator. My FMX has always engaged in gear a little rough, but it doesn't sound as bad as the OP. It still works pretty damn well for an original unrebuilt transmission. My engine is 0.030" over stock 351w with stock converter and idle is set properly, and the shift rod adjusted properly.
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