69 red fastback

I bought my power disc brake conversion kit from chocostang and have been very happy with it.

Thanks for the replies I appreciate all of the advice

Thanks for the info

Good info guys Thanks, yes the amp is dial, it just doesn't weld the sheet metal very good, if I turn it down so it won't burn through i get the popcorn welds, if I turn it up to get rid of the popcorn welds I have trouble with burn through, I think my old hobard might just be getting worn out

Thanks for the info

Thanks for the info

Thanks for the reply, I had an idea that would be the answer. I have an older hobart and I can get it turned down enough to weld my sheet metal and lay a good weld so I thought I would go with a smaller welder.

I'm going to have to get a new welder and was wondering what you guys thought, have any of you used flux core wire, does it weld as good as solid wire with shielding gas, any thought would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Car looks awesome, and the color is sharp, what is it if you don't mind me asking

MikeStang, How was cruisin the coast for ya, we seen a few more 69's this year which was awesome, and I must say, that hood that you got from ridge looks awesome on your car, the only thing that we didn't like was all the new stuff driving around, but still an awesome show as always, looking forward to next year already

Thanks guys for the responses, that sounds alot better then pulling the motor

Sorry, I forgot to mention that it's a 302 bored to 306, yes I rebuilt it about 6 years ago while I was redoing my 69. It is the rubber seal

Just wanting to know if it's possible to change the rear main without pulling the motor, I'm hoping one of the experts on here have done it and can tell me if there are any tricks to doing it without pulling the motor. Thanks in advance

Good info

This going to sound funny but I made mine out of a welding rod, and it's works perfect

I did like 69RavenConv suggested, I used a jewelers screwdriver to realease the locking tab and it came right out. I was able to find a new bullet connecter at my local carquest store, I then took a 12 gauge wire and the green with the red strpe and attached them together and put them in the new bullet connecter and then soldered them, pushed the pin back in the pig tail plug. I also ran my new wire through the firewall where I ran my tach wire and put it in a plastic loom and I think it turned out nice looking

danno, Thanks for the explanation, that is how I came to the conclusion that the resistor wire was the problem. I am running the MSD 8352 ready to run distributor and the MSD 8202 Blaster 2 coil, I had the Mallory 29216 coil on it, and I think that is what I did was burn it up, after doing some research the Mallory coil likes the resistor wire, and I think that's why my car was running like crap, because sense I bypassed the resistor wire and put on the msd coil the car has never ran better. Thanks for the responses Joe

Well I found out my problem was the pink resistor wire going from the ignition switch to the coil. So I did away with the pink wire and ran a 12 gauge wire from the ignition switch to the coil and all is good. Thanks to everyone for all of the advice.

Well thanks to Midlife we narrowed it down to the halogen lights, so now my guestion is, is it worth staying with halogen lights and putting a relay on them or just go back to the incondesent lights. If I go with a relay, can anybody recommend a good relay kit. Thanks in advance

Thanks Raven R code I'll send him a pm

Thanks for the response, I'll check my grounds again

Sorry for the last one, my fat thumb hit the send button, I haven't tried unplugging the headlight harness yet, that was my next thing to try,:I should add that it is an automatic and it's when I put it in gear is when it will die, I have checked my grounds and all seem to be good, and yes the headlight will still stay on when it dies, and they will come on with the engine not running. The funny thing is that when I turn just the parking light on everything is fine, it's just when I turn on the headlights. I will pull up the carpet and check the dimmer switch to see if it's the culprit. I would also like to add that when I did a voltage check at the battery and the coil, running I had 14.6 at the battery and 12.6 at the coil but when I turned on the headlights the battery was about the same but the coil was all over the place and I mean anywhere from 12.6 to 119.5 and yes you read those numbers right, thats the part that I don't understand

Thanks guys for the replies, I have

Thanks for the reply, I forgot to mention that I have already change the headlight switch also, but I will take it out and give it a good checking

I hope some of the electical experts here can help me with this problem, everything works as it sould I.e. gauges, lights, horns, except when I turn the headlights on it will actually kill the car, I've put on new alternator, voltage regulator. What am I missin, could it be a ground issue, a short somewhere? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks