bryonbush
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Posts posted by bryonbush
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if you look at the unit, the mounting tab on the front right (Passenger side) itll have exposed metal. That is were the grounding is supposed to take place originally by that exposed metal tab being grounded by the bolt and intake bolt/stud. that's where I ran the ground wire to. I have never heard of having to drill into the unit or using that small screw.
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Originally it grounds through the intake and stud. I made the ground wire run from the fitech to the back of the block, where the ground strap goes from block to firewall.
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I got ahold of aaw service and we came to the conclusion that the light switch in the column is bad. We bypassed the column and everything worked. Hopefully that's the problem
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So my turn signals and hazard lights are not functioning after the AAW swap. I wired them to the examples provided per AAW. then they are sent to the Dakota digital box. The box does not show any reading for either the signals or hazards. No fuses are blowing and I verified that I am getting 12v from AAW. Not sure what’s up
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I couldn't sleep the other night after posting this so I went back out to work. I had a cable about the thickness of my finger from another project laying around. So I ran that from the back of the block to the frame rail where the metal is thicker. I then made a ground from the same spot in the block, to the grounding tab on the fitech. I also found that the wire I was using for 12v cranking was dropping to 4v at cranking. I switched that to the fuel pump wire in the aaw kit. Sucker started right up after that.
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I wrapped up the aaw install with the motor, efi, ac, electric fans etc.. today I was fighting getting the car started and come to find out, my fitech isn't getting enough grounding. I'll have to run a dedicated wire for that. No biggie..
BUT that got me thinking I may have other issues. I'm not tripping fuses, and everything works good. I have a massive new ground from battery to block. Then from block to firewall. All connections were cleaned to bare metal and new wires. The strap to the firewall is a smaller stand type from autozone.
Either I need a better block/firewall strap or I need another block to frame, or both. I know there were some good examples on here before but now most pictures are gone.
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Well that's a bummer to hear. I've been running that same tank for about 2 years now and so far no problems. I did notice on hot days the pump gets noisy. I'm contemplating swapping out for a Holley tank or a Tanks inc one but dont like the hoses up top. Flip side is if something goes wrong with a pump, it's a lot easier to swap out.
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On 3/21/2020 at 11:21 PM, jerrycordova93 said:So what's the verdict with drilling the holes on the dash? Leave the trim on, or leave it off while using the template? I dont have those trims at all, so I'm stuck if I need them on....
I'm in the same spot. I'm debating on not drilling the dash pad, and putting them down on the side by the radio area like VinAir shows in the instructions.
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@Vicfreg I was looking at the AAW extra wires for a key on power source for my EFI and Transmission controller. Would wire# 100, 103, 103, or 107 be a good source for this? I'm thinking 107 would but not sure if it powers while cranking
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Looking really good
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I knew you installed yours but also knew that you went to that inside power source from the battery that you made. I'm planning on connecting the violet wire for the key on source from the radio and then using AAW wire #50 to power the VA. Havent made any connections in yet but started to run the wires last night.
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I’m installing the vintage air unit into the vert and questioning who has wired theirs up to an AAW harness. I’ve read in some Camaro forums of guys running the power to VA from AAW from the heater/ac wire. What I can’t find out is if they are keeping in inline fuse that is supplied or just use the fuse in the AAW kit.
anyone have experience with this?
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I think under the pro tuning section it shows cranking volts. Maybe I’m wrong though. I tried to post some screenshots in here but it wouldn’t let me. If need be I’ll transfer the photos to my computer today and upload them
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if you have a facebook account, go to FiTech Owners Group. they have several pinned messages on startups that are very beneficial. ill post some screen shots of some things thatll help.
one of the admins, Josh, has a 69 mustang and is very informative on this. crank it over and if it doesn't start, pull a plug and see if its soaked or dry. then you'll know for sure which way to start tuning.
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here ya go.https://www.autocoolguy.com
for the record, I’ve got a flexolite controller and it works good -
I rewired my vert this spring with an aaw kit. It's at the body shop now getting painted so I cant check this info for myself.
Does anyone know if in one of the extra spots aaw provides, give a solid 12v while cranking? Reason why, I would love to eliminate the wires for my fitech efi. For those who dont know, fitech has a massive connector with two wires, one goes from the battery and one goes to the fuel pump. If you're trying to have a clean engine bay, there is really no way to hide these but if I can get the fitech unit to get power from inside the car, that would eliminate the wires in the bay.
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These looks great. I’m wanting to get a set once the car is back from the paint shop
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18 hours ago, lanky said:If shipping is included, I'd be interested in the starter. PM me if that works
sent you a PM
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Cleaning out parts that I dont use. All priced are negotiable and I can calculate shipping. Most can go flat rate USPS.
Powermaster starter..$130
Tuff stuff alternator #7078ng $100
Painless wire harness pn 70217 make offer
Non tack dash with newer printed circuit, VR, and LED bulbs. Make offer.
More pictures if needed
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I have been using a JBL flip 4 for a while in my vert. Cheap, loud, and no wires.
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Go through this posts. Good info even though it's not in a 69
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I didnt have ac in my car so I ran the wires up the firewall and in through one of those holes, then into the glovebox. Now another great way that I'm considering doing it is to call baumann and order one of their pin pushers. Remove the plastic heads then run them through a hole you drill by the shifter. From there you can run the wires under the carpet to the glove box or if you have a console run it in there. My car is torn down and at paint so no pictures for ya now. Look over on the VMF forum and theres a good write up of a guy who did it the way I described
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Could you fill me in with the ac line routing. I'm assuming there will be a coyote In there but have you done something similar with a 351w? I want to do something like that with my 69 by hiding the lines.
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Got it thanks!
So I have a 4r70w trans mission that needs a key on power source. It has a 5amp inline fuse built in. Im thinking of using wire #100 but is “accessory fused power source” a good option?
EFI Conversion: it's ALIVE!
in Project Progress Forum
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Nice! I would love to have that system on my 351.