bryonbush

Mach1 nailed it. I have never ran this motor as it was already out of the car and partially disassembled when I got it. So I can't tell you how it performed. So when I get questions about the cam, as I stated I before, I don't have anything against it, but if there's better options out there let's hear it. I'm looking for a good overall performer since it'll be used for street driving, autocross, and track racing. Again, I'm trying to salvage the long block and the parts I have to spend money on a good set of heads and intake. Here are the piston markings and a search shows they are stock type pistons where you can find them at most places.

Barnett: im not sure which question I may have missed that I didn't answer. the one post you made with all the questions in it, I responded to in red colored text. tomorrow ill try to scrub one of the piston tops and get some numbers on it.

Got home this weekend and got the markings off the pistons I have. They are TRW 255-98. A little Google says they are older pistons that were stock use. You might know a little more and what they were used in/for

cams arnt too expensive and ill be getting a better intake too. so is there a better cam for me and what im trying to do? if there wont be too much of a gain, then ill keep what I have. I appreciate all the advice.

The 7k wind up was just a guesstimate. You're correct about the objective was a refresh of the block to avoid the costs of machine work.

Long story short, the 302 that i got with my 69 sportroof was rebuilt by the 2nd previous owner. the guy i bought it from said it started up and ran ok, just very under powered. he pulled the motor and found that the rings werent gaped and set right, thus high compression in some, low in others. then he left that car and motor and the back burner and thats where i come in. i pulled the thing all the way apart. pistons are .030 over with new rods. the crank says .020 /.020. the cam is an edelbrock #2122 Performer-plus cam. the guy who assembled the motor used ARP bolts everywhere. the cylinder walls look good, except one which has a slight gouge in it (assuming from the rings pinching.) I was hoping to salvage as much as this is as i can to save some coin. my goal here is to hone the cylinders, put new bearings on the rods and crank, then new rings on and call it good. with that said, i know just enough engine rebuilding to get me into some serious trouble. so i'm looking for advice on which bearings and rings to get. I also plan on putting a set of trick flow 11r heads and it will be mated with a T5 trans. This will be a street track car and will most likely have a 3.50 9" rear. So i also need a good suggestion on a cam. i appreciate any suggestions, good or bad, to point me in the right direction. Thanks!

I too have never laid hands on the stuff. But it's been used and recommended by a lot of others. I like the fitting and the features it has in terms of temp ratings.

going to drop in on this convo. I was inquiring about the flex wrap and a facebook forum member sent me to this guy. he has the best pricing from what ive seen and was also told if you contact him directly, he can make a special order for whatever combo you want and it will usually save you more since youre not using ebay.. Hope this helps out! http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS?_trksid=p2056016.l2563

So a few questions. The box that you are using shown in picture #2 is that included with the aaw kit or separate? I was under the impression that you were using a fan controller so are you running the power from that box, back to the controller, then wires back to the fan? If you're running fitech, why not have that control the fans operation? Also, will this box be directly tied to the battery? Next, what line from the aaw kit do you plan to use to power the convertible top motor? Maybe I just missed that part.

I like that coupe but I think it would look a little cleaner without the scoop.

whats the plan for your alternator?

I honestly don't know whats original on this car or not. the hood pin plate on the hood was screwed in with common headed screws. the holes through the hood look pretty rough but its straight metal with no filler. I didn't see anything that indicated that it was a special build buy any markings or emblems inside or out of the car. The hood scoop didn't show to have wires running to it but it looks like there were turn signals in the scoop. But to be honest, ive never seen an actual working set of those in person, so maybe they were fakes. right now im in the middle of a transitional period with work changes for the wife and figuring out living arrangements other than this apartment. So until that stuff gets figured out, very little will be accomplished on the car unfortunately.

So I pulled the numbers off it today when I ran out to the storage unit. Here'what I found:

were these the ones you were questioning if they were a good price?

ive wanted to louver my hood for a long time but fear of it looking trashy and im screwed. but with this new sportroof i picked up, the hood is in need of attention anyways. there are two spaces in between the bracing that i think sit right behind the radiator that im thinking about cutting to make heat extractors. nothing big or gauty but i think it would help. im with others that with you hood finished the way it is, it would look a lot better if it was welded in and pained.

This might seem odd but is there a faster way to see if it's anything special before I go to a Marti report?

So long story. I met a guy out of our Amarillo office who is a huge ford fan. he has a bronco,mercury commit, fairlane 500 and a few fox bodies then this. He got it a few years ago from the son of the original owner. the original owner let it sit for around 20 years then his son decided to work on it. He pulled the motor and rebuilt it but put the rings in wrong so it had no compression. then it sat for a few more years before being bought and moved to Amarillo. Im not sure exactly how i want to go about it. I want a road legal track car. they have a good amount of auto cross events here but a few times i'd like to go to some of the road courses out there. I really like the idea of smashing a coyote in there as they are getting cheaper to find. keep the stock suspension but upgrade it.... you know how this goes. but im not too worried about making it class specific as i dont plan on ever going that route. That's the goal. i havent had a chance to take pics of the car or even really go over it too well. it was a last minute offer that was too good to pass up. the engine was included but it was out of the car. all the weather seals are bad. the back right side was bumped/backed into at some point right behind the bumper as it's crinkled. both doors have to be re skinned at minimum. nose of the hood took a bump at some point. Im thinking this weekend ill pull the seats and carpet out to see how the floors look. ill probably be replacing the lower quarter on the driver's side as there were rust issues from not being able to drain. ive never replaced any type of metal flooring or skins so this will be a learning experience. down side is right now its in a storage unit with no power so im very limited on what i can do. until i get my house built.

Picked up this 69 yesterday. Typical rust in spots from a car that's been in a barn for 20+ years. Had a 302 w 3 speed manual and 9" rear. Non PS&PB. Guy bought it from original owners son, cleaned it up, then burned up the rear end doing burnouts. He pulled the motor and never did anything with it. I really would like to make a trans am themed car out of this.

I ordered that same switch in chrome for my OD off switch. Works good.

theres a good write up on mustang monthly floating around online. they put the box behind the gauge cluster on one of the flat spots. that's next on my list.

im going to bump this thread up. There is a good amount of people here who seem to have the unisteer rack. for those who have it, can you please post info on your engine and header setups? I need to see if it will work with my 351w and dougs try-Y headers.

just curios as to where you're at. im planning on a cross country drive this summer and looks like you got the wiring thing down and im needing to get mine done. figured since they are both convertibles, have similar accessories and now your previous experience that it shouldnt be that hard for ya!

look into a soft start fan controller like Flexalite. They will bump the fans on slowly so it wont overload the system upon startup where most your power will be drawn. over on the VMF there's a topic that covers how much power the fans pulled upon startup and if I remember right, it was close to double what the fans would pull once running.

that trunk and power set up will look nice once done. im still deciding if I want to relocate the battery to the back or not in my vert when i re do my wiring.