bryonbush

I'm having issues with the mobile site, or maybe this isn't on there at all, but what are these running for cost?

I listed it online in a few places. Had a lot of interest in it, but one guy said it wasnt worth the day trip. Guess we'll see what happens.

Technically my dad did for him. And it was well before my adventures into Mustangs. Both his cars were impeccable restorations that would win awards everywhere he went. So much so he stopped bringing them to shows. He ended up with parkinsons and as time went on, turned into dementia. The last straw was him "working" on the car fixing an issue that he had back on the car many moons back. My grandmother told my dad to sell them and unfortunately for my dad, who grew up restoring the 34, didnt have the time, or drive to keep it around due to him having to take care of gramps. Sad story all the way around but its life.

Honestly I'm not sure. I bought the vert off ebay, grandpa sold his 51 and 34 on there. Guess I just prefer to talk and sell to someone face to face

Hey Tim, they are the ones from England. Super bright which is nice but one think I wasnt impressed with is the reflectors inside all came undone from the cheap double sided tape they use. I ended up having to take care out the lights and gluing them in.

Well the convertible is done up very nicely. For me to get to get the fastback to that level will cost a lot of money and time. Both of which I dont have right now. My thinking was to sell the sportroof, to fund an overhaul of the motor, new brakes, rewire, and AC. I did list the vert a while back on a few month ago on a few websites. I think with me living in Lubbock, which is just far enough away from any major cities, I couldn't attract the crowd like it could have. That would leave me to something like ebay which I'm not sure I want to do.

See if this link works https://photos.app.goo.gl/p56aeW6CTD5kudmM9

I'll have to get them from my computer. I'll post some when free

so I'm Mildly entertaining the idea of selling my FB to fund an overhaul on my convertible. I would really love to keep both, but I don't have the time of funds to manage two projects playing single dad. I'm not sure what is a fair moving price on it. I have my idea, but interested in what yall think it would bring. AAW harness, rear drum brakes, new brake and fuel lines, wildwood 12" 6piston fronts. new upper & lower control arms, tie rods, rebuilt steering box, new backup lights, 24" chamption 2 row radiator, high flow Tuff Stuff water pump. Dakota Digital gauges, 1" sway bar, adjustable struts, Mini starter, 4 speed top loader, roller brake/clutch pedal and roller clutch rod, new clutch, new interior dome lights, new manual power brake booster. have factory front and rear seats that have been removed. front seats are Corbeau FX1 Pros. 9" 31 spline rear end with Detroit locker. new front valance. Viking double adjustable front coilovers and viking double adjustable rear shocks. New leaf spring bushings. floors are in really great shape. does have some holes that were cut by the PO by the rear quarters on both sides for rust. Southern Kalifornia and Texas car its whole life.

Ok thanks. For some reason I though there was a larger orange wire that was labeled for the heater. Guess I'm thinking wrong

Ah gotcha! So the orange wire goes to the blower motor?

Sweet thanks. I'm not home for a week so I cant see my harnesses. So the factory yellow wire gets replaced by the big orange wire in the AAW kit? What was the smaller brown wire you added a wire connector to? Thanks

Seeing if yall could help me with how to wire up the fan speed switch and the heater blower to an aaw kit while using the stock setup. This is for a non AC car. There were some of yall who did this and its documented somewhere but a lot of the pictures in the build section are gone

in all honesty I think there is a law about messing with certain safety equipment in the car. I heard this about pulling seat belts out of cars that have been in wrecks. Working with crash reconstruction troopers there's a way to tell if the fabric has been stretched that often times in major accidents, this is looked at to see if people were wearing their seatbelts. With that said, id hate to be messing around with a shotty sewing job on a seat belt.

You haven’t used this system have you? The hoses they have suck and run OVER the headers which means they bake then crack and break. My hoses lasted a week while on the power tour. Anyone who actually drives their cars with their borgensons hoses are on borrowed time. It seems like you’re set on an argument on why we should stick with brogeson over rack even after I pointed out two kits that will be around the same price. Never the less, a search for my posts on borgeson will quickly show the issues they have for someone who drives their car a lot with this system.

Look at steeroids or unisteer. Borgeson set up without the pump is close to 1k, then custom hoses being another few hundred, pump is another few hundred as well. Just this weekend I had to put all new seals in the pump which adds another $20-30 for the seals and fluid. For the hassle this has been, even another few hundred dollars to not have to constantly have leaking hoses, blown gaskets in the box, and pumps that leak is worth it.

Congrats Vic! I'm still haven't even started my kit yet. I was actually just waiting for you to get done so you can do mine.

A quick search here will show you my experience with them. The Saginaw pump leaks like a sieve now. Dont waste your time with their hoses. Get some custom ones made that will allow them to go under the car, then up to the box or through the fender area. You'll fry the hoses they provide quickly if you drive a lot. The money I have into the box, hoses (few custom sets) and pump, I'd go rack. I was in your spot where every place an original PS could leak did and was in dire need of rebuilding. CJ had a sale and it was slightly cheaper than having everything rebuilt or replaced. That quickly became very expensive. Some people have been very happy and trouble free, but not for me.

I'm in need of/need to replace every linkage for the fastback including the Z bar pivot points. I don't see any reason to go back to the stock style system that will wear out. So I'm looking at the opentracker roller set up or going to a clutch cable as both come out around the same price. Any recommendations on either of the two kits?

I can honestly say I don't know. I switched out boosters last summer and since then I have way more pedal travel than I did before. I have bled these things still my legs fell off and never get any more air bubbles out. So I'm thinking that either 1: i need to just bring it to a place and have them vacuum out the system on a machine, 2: try new and better pads, or 3: find someone who is very familiar with these systems, have them take a ride and see what they say. Unfortunately I don't have a good idea of how these stock brakes feel as I feel as they have never been what they should be

Hey partner, any update? For as long as I have had my 69, even with all new every thing related to the brakes and they still suck. At this point I'm thinking it's maybe just the pads because I've bled this system a gazillion times and nothing seems to change

Bumping this up

if you look at the 6th photo in the link to LMR I posted, it shows where the temp gauge is. So depending on where your control valve is, I would think (key work there) that the coolant would be always in there. When I added my temp sensor I put it right where the bypass was since I don't have a heater core. but if I add heat ill need another place. another option would be to buy the same kit only without the added bung. then just drill and tap into the threaded area that goes into the intake. seen that done a few times but then your sensor sits pretty high.

yup. the shop who did it did a very good job. one thing I don't like though is how they connected the headers to the pipe, they hang quite a bit and these are on Dougs Try-Y's. You would think for them pulling the collector out away from the trans a smidge, running it close together and through the brace, then nice and tight over the exhaust, they would've don't a little better at the collectors.. oh well, it works and I aint changing it. forgot to add... my trans tunnel gets pretty hot in the summers with the pipes so tightly in there. Vick: I would recommend putting some type of heat shield in there if you do it. I was actually thinking of taking some of the heat shield off a totaled ford fusion. I was under my wifes car changing the oil and noticed they have a pretty good run of that padded aluminum heat shielding stuff that would probably work pretty well.

Look into the foxbody heater hose tubes. They are solid across the engine top and also have a bung for a temp sensor which will also help since your running efi. In my opinion it gives a cleaner look that the big rubber hoses. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9424BA/Mustang-Heater-Tube-Assembly-w-o-Coolant-Tube-86-93-50-58