bryonbush

anyone have thoughts on Dougs headers?

I'm running edelbrock RPM heads. Not sure how big the exhaust ports are though.

barnett: the new motor should be around 450hp. im impartial to long or short, but thinking down the road, i want something that i wont have to modify if i end up going with rack and pinion. ive been looking at http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88658/overview/, but that 3rd tube that comes up and over looks like it could be a problem. reviews have been hit and miss with those. either works great or not. and before the FPA guys jump in, i did contact them, and they are way out of the price range.

Im racking my brain over this and want some help. im looking at shorties but im reading that with a 351w, long tubes dont hang down as far and will clear a c4 no problem.. but then some say they didnt work at all. thats where im hung up. so will it work or no? specs: 351W, C4, Power Steering, no AC yet I dont have a problem with long tubes if they will work and wont bottom out. and this will be on the new motor im dropping in.

this may be odd, but im looking for a painting, my grandpa who has restored many vintage Fords has several amazing portrait style paintings of older homes with particular vehicles in the driveway, yard or garage etc. He has a painting ive always enjoyed of an older house in a mountain setting with a blue 1934 ford like the one he used to have in his living room and would love to get one like that only with my mustang in there. anyone know where to find something like that?

you got any pictures?

looking at the pictures posted up and was wondering, how much difference is there between having the electrical fans vs original fan if its not going to be used for racing or hard driving? with the new motor that will be going in, i'm wondering if i should get a new, updated rad and add the electric if i need it or do it all at once.

That's a lot of money and work then to see the list of things you still need is pretty dumb for their asking price. If you want to go that route there are other all in one kits out there for front end replacement. In all honesty though, but the kit I linked, do the Shelby Drop, then buy yourself a power rack and pinionand you'll still be cheaper than the front end kits.

i just replaced mine a month or so back. it was easier and actually cheaper to replace the whole LCA than it was to buy the parts to restore the OEM ones. disc brake conversions are simple and if you're just looking for something to stop your car, you can easly get a stock kit from the webs under $1k. in all honesty, if you're going to be replacing the brakes, shocks, control arms, i would wait and buy everything you'll want to replace, now or later and get it all done at once. No one around me had UCA's in stock so i had to wait on that when i did mine. but im planing on doing that and the drop this winter when i replace the engine. http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1967-1973-Mustang-Front-Suspension-Kit-Grab-A-Trak-R.html

Cool thanks. I saw that picture online but wasn't sure if there was a difference between years. Good to hear there are only two ducts to deal with. Wasn't sure if there were more and not knowing what the previous owner has done isn't much help.

right now my car has no heater core and the blower wont turn on when you hit the switch. So before i start to tear things apart, anyone have some pictures/diagrams of wiring from the control assembly to the heater box as well as where the ducts are supposed to go because right now i dont have any ducts. this is a non ac car so is the only place where the heat would come from is the dash by the windshield or is there other places?

hopefully this will help. My steering was very loose and i would dangeriously wander on the road. starting from the treering wheel and working my way down, i checked the box play, rag joint, pitmann arms, tie rods and all seemed okay. last month I put on new ball joints, lower controll arms and sway bar bushings and i no longer drift. if your PS set up in freshly rebuilt, i would strongly encourage you to look at the things i replaced and think about doing it yourself. When was the last time your allignment was done? seriously man, really give your ball joints, LC/UCA, and tie rods a good look over. I was about to drop $1500 on a R&P i was so tired of it till i read about crappy joints and control arms. glad i didnt hope this helps

hopefully this will help. My steering was very loose and i would dangeriously wander on the road. starting from the treering wheel and working my way down, i checked the box play, rag joint, pitmann arms, tie rods and all seemed okay. last month I put on new ball joints, lower controll arms and sway bar bushings and i no longer drift. if your PS set up in freshly rebuilt, i would strongly encourage you to look at the things i replaced and think about doing it yourself. When was the last time your allignment was done? seriously man, really give your ball joints, LC/UCA, and tie rods a good look over. I was about to drop $1500 on a R&P i was so tired of it till i read about crappy joints and control arms. glad i didnt hope this helps

You put in that traction lock yourself? Haven't looked too hard for a NOS one but the new ones seem to be pretty reasonable for pricing.

I've redone all the brakes suspension, bushings and steering. Now just trying to make sure when I put this motor in I don't jack the car up. But I will need some type of locking differential though. I've been looking into the Detroit Locker but seeing what yall have been using. The car runs and drives now so this isn't a huge project, just upgrading where I can.

just a heads up, my bakes looked good with no cracks, but was collapsed on the inside so you couldnt see anything that was wrong. my fronts were cracked and dry rotting but worked good. if you're getting hardly anything out of your back lines, then id place money on that rubber hose.

Maxum: i was going to go with the 4r70w swap but decided to wait on that right now so i have the original C4 that will be rebuilt. When i was planning the build for the new engine, we went off those gears in the back. i would like to stick to those for now because where i live is all long country roads and highway to get anywhere with speed limits of 75 on highway. j69302: i like those connectors but aint cheap! but if they work then i dont mind paying extra for something better. Right now I have the stock export brace on there so im not sure if maybe just adding a shock tower brace would be the way to go or do the maier one piece. they both sure do look good though.

evening all.. so lets talk about my Vert winter project. pulling the original 302 motor with 95k miles on it and putting in a 351w that will be pretty stout. #1-- got a 9" with 2.79 and want to put in a differential. suggests on what you fellas have found out has worked pretty good. not going to be drag racing, but will be getting after it. so whats good that wont break the bank? #2-- frame connectors, shock tower strengthening, and motecarlo bars is whats on the list. what connectors have you used for the verts that worked and dont require cutting the floor. Thanks for the help

did you replace the brake lines from front to back? what i ran into when i first got my car was the rubber hose to the back of the car was collapsed and wouldnt allow any fluid to pass through. check the rear and the front ones as well. i just went through and re did my brakes front and back. new calipers/rotors/lines for the front and drums, springs, lines, and cylinders for the back and doing good. but check those hoses first since it looks like you got everything else checked out.

Bueller?

currently i have 234/62/14's and found a really good deal of wheels and tires off a newer mustang. Tire size is 215/65/16 but need to see if they will fit. i cant find out how much backspacing there is on those wheels anywhere. i believe they are off an 09 mustang but not sure.

yeah my bad.. its not a factory ac car. now anyone have suggestions on the best place to get a kit? i know of the major parts places but if i run into a problem, i want a company thats good to deal with and has experience with the systems.

is it making everything brighter? Heck im down in Mission this till thursday, maybe ill drive over and check it out

so my car doesn't have a heater core in it currently and nothing for the heater works when you move the switches. when i took the dash apart, there were no hoses going to the dash for defrost. the car is also not a factory car. i decided to put the AODE trans swap on hold so i can get the air situation taken care of. So here's where im at: I would like to get an AC Kit, and they come with a new blower box. Should i fix up what i have now, then put in the AC kit this spring, or just do it all at once? im not sure where to start at diagnosing what i have now for electrical (other than adding the heating core) what wires go from the blower motor to the temp control stuff?

thats amazing man. always amazes me when i see something like this get done. wayyyy more patience than i have.