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About stuart

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 01/22/1966


  • Biography
    Mustang Enthusiast
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  • Interests
    Classic Mustangs, Harleys, Family, Outdoors
  • Occupation

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  1. I'd check the clearance on your accelerator pump arm and also see what size power valve you're running. You may need a power valve with a higher vacuum opening to give the carb more fuel when you're transitioning from part to full throttle. Stu
  2. I think I've got all those pieces available. I'll check this weekend and post you again. Stuart
  3. I'm interested in the fan and the power steering parts if still available. Let me know what you're asking for it. thanks, Stuart
  4. Gentlemen, et al: Thanks for your assistance with this electrical issue. The problem turned out to be an inop tachometer which is now on it's way to the Tach Man for repair. Stu
  5. Thanks, I’ll try the bypass first. Can I just unplug the tach from the harness and jump between the two pins on the connector?
  6. Need some help diagnosing an electrical problem. To begin it's a 1969 Mach 1, 351 4V with factory tach and running Pertronix III and Pertronix Ignitor coil. Last weekend it cranked up fine and ran briefly, then died. After that when turning the motor over it would catch and fire once, then die. I'm getting the Alternator light in the dash, but tachometer isn't moving. Carburetor, fuel pump, battery, starter, and solenoid all checked out ok. I swapped back to Ford coil and points and no fix to problem. I pulled the plug from back of ignition switch and found what appeared to be a short where the black w/green and dark pink connect at the plug. Installed a replacement pigtail and no fix. I'd like to fix this myself and not have to drag her to a repair shop. Should I be suspecting a fault in the tach, or start tracking down a short or burned fusible link somewhere in the harness? thanks, Stu
  7. Virginia Mustang sells them new, however they are pricey.
  8. There is a dimple as you mentioned above. The pic below provides a little clearer detail of the hole's location. Stu
  9. That's not a 1969 Mustang part that I've ever run across after 33 years in the obsession. Stu
  10. Check your part numbers. That's a nodular iron Daytona pinion support only used by 428 CJs, Boss cars, and Shelbys. Pretty hard to find these days.
  11. Selling a Muscle Parts aluminum intake manifold C9OX-A. This is the Ford "over the counter" high performance, dual-plane manifold that is getting very, very hard to find these days. This intake is in excellent shape and isn't butchered up or corroded around the water ports. $500 with free shipping to members of this board. PM or email me at stuart.burruss@yahoo.com for info or pics. Stu
  12. I've got one. $150 plus shipping from New Orleans. Stu
  13. I've got both of those. By the front cone, are you meaning the bearing retainer that bolts to the front of the case? Give me your email and I can send some pics tonight. Stu
  14. Give each bushing a good shot of WD-40 between the rubber and the eye in the leaf spring. Let it sit for a little while and then give it a tap with a rubber-headed hammer or a wooden mallet. Should pop right out. Stu
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