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About mauleta

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  • Birthday 06/03/1960

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  1. You might want to look at Strut Rod Bushings from Performance Suspension Technologies. They have Graphite Impregnated Polyurethane strut rod bushings. I used them for my sway bar bushings. I can't comment on the performance because my car isn't on the road yet, but the graphite is supposed to help prevent squeaking. https://p-s-t.com/i-23160483-polygraphite-front-strut-rod-bushing-set.html#!year%3D1969||make%3DFORD||model%3DMUSTANG
  2. I have one I bought at TSC that's manufactured under license from Ford by Tomy, but it's either New Lime or Meadowlark Yellow. The wheels are incorrect though. They look like chrome Torq Thrusts. Other than that, the detail is pretty good, even down to the chrome CobraJet lettering on the shaker.
  3. Debbie, As far as the gearing goes, using a 4.11 will result in a quicker take off from a dead stop, with the result of a lower top end speed before you hit redline. All other things being equal, a 3.73 gear will have a higher top speed but will be slower off the line than the the 4.11. Also, you will burn more fuel when cruising using a 4.11 vs. a 3.73. Neither are really meant for cruising, but the 3.73 is a little friendlier towards it. Look at it this way, using a 4.11 rear gear set and a 1:1 final in the transmission, the engine will rotate 4.11 times for each revolution of the rear tires while if you have 3.73 gear set, the engine will turn 3.73 times for every revolution of the rear tires. Mike
  4. I was disassembling my A/T shifter to replace the bushings when I had an issue removing the small hex headed screws that hold the black background and the neutral safety switch in place. All four of them had their heads shear off. I managed to get three of them out with some penetrating oil and heat, but the fourth I had to drill out. Does anyone know the proper type of screws to replace them with? This is for a 69 Mach1 with a 351W and an FMX transmission. Thanks, Mike
  5. Where are you located? This has been on CL in Delaware for a while. Granted it's a 70 hood though. Could weld up the 70 hood pin holes & re-drill for the 69 pins https://delaware.craigslist.org/pts/5992779887.html
  6. Originally from Middletown, where I owned my first Mach1. A 69 390, 4 speed. Before I bought it, a friend of mine I met slot car racing at the Collingwood auction looked at it for me. Never knew his last name, but his first name was Ken. He lived in Toms River and had a 67 GT 350. Now I live in Gibbstown, closer to Philly, working on my second.
  7. Glad it worked for you. Where in South Jersey are you?
  8. Try grinding out the end of the sleeve on either the front or the back of the bushing. That's what I had to do. The sleeve is mushroomed out over the edge of the metal discs on either end of the bushing if you still have the factory bushings installed. Should pop out pretty easily after that. Mine did. Mike
  9. I know this post is a few months old now, but now that we're in the dead of summer, how is the AC working out?
  10. Another good link specific to Vintage Air http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/54442-my-vintage-air-gen-vi-install/
  11. This guy used some plexiglass & vinyl wrap to install a Classic Auto Air non AC vent into an AC dash. Can't see how it would be much different for Vintage Air. http://69mustangrestoration.blogspot.com/p/air-conditioning.html
  12. Generally, the only difference I can think of is that the non AC kit comes with the vents, so you have to drill some pretty large holes in your dash to install them. I like the look of the factory center vent better, but the side vents are close enough to the factory ones that I don't mind.
  13. What I did was buy the non AC kit, but an AC dash pad. I then bought a center vent from ebay and purchased the center vent adapter for an AC equipped kit from the AC kit vendor. They will (at least Vintage Air will) sell the individual parts separately. It was inexpensive for the vent adapter and the factory vent looks better in my opinion. Mike
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