MustangBobby

It worked. Thanks RPM

Well I did some work on my floor, but I need someone's help to upload the pics. I created a Photobucket account, but I can't figure out how to get the photos from there to here. Please pm if you can help. I'm west coast if it will take a phone call. Thanks.

Each to their own, but I LOVE those cables coming from under the hood and around to the pins. Just looks badass in my book.

I want to know what everybody has in their stereo while working on their car. I am talking about old school cd/tape stereos here. If you just put your iPod on shuffle, this doesn't apply. I want to know what music you made a choice to actually load the CD, or even tape. I have a five disc changer and it is currently loaded with... Def Leppard- Hysteria Deluxe edition (Just saw them in concert. New album hits Oct. 30, new song on YouTube) WASP- The Last Command GNR- Illusion II Dokken- Under Lock and Key Goo Goo Dolls- A boy Named Goo

If you want to do it yourself, I just use a fine wire wheel in a drill, or an angle grinder. Something with variable speed. It can take a while, but it works. Taking it to a media blaster will be the fastest way, and any quality blaster SHOULD have the skill to not do any damage.

That's a pretty good looking group. The stripes look really good.

Lead was used because there wasn't the quality fillers there are now. You would be fine to use a fiber reenforced filler as long as everything is prepped correctly and you don't exceed the recommended thickness of the filler. Do not use regular plastic filler (bondo). I would recommend as the others have, to just weld in a little patch to fill the area, and then proceed with regular filler.

I agree Mike. It looks complete taking it onto the cowl. I could go either way with the black or green center vent. It would be easy enough to peel off and put back on if you didn't like it as much.

That looks a little better than my scetch. Bitchin'

1/4 inch

It's crude, but you get the idea. A modified Mach 1 stripe. I think it would look bitchin'.

Looks bitchin'. Have you thought about the standard 69 hood black out design?

Well, I just got done talking with my friend who is a mechanical engineer, and he said this would work really well. The first thing that popped into his head when he saw it, was a bridge truss. It is a very efficient design at load transfer. He said unless I was building a NASCAR, this would do everything you need it to do because it has straight bars and no curves unlike the X brace. He is confident that it would work as well as the X brace if not better, because it is built with substantial sized tubing and there are not any geometric weak points, which Maier also mentions in the description. I still think the $400 is a lot, but I now feel better about the product after talking with an engineer.

Mike, you should post more pics of your ride. That is nice looking.

You can do door bars like Agent 47 did with their Harbinger. http://a-47.com/galleries/012%20X2%20Detail/fullsize/InteriorRace.jp http://a-47.com/galleries/012%20X2%20Detail/fullsize/InteriorStreet.jpg

The radiator mounts in the factory spots, and the fan shroud mounts to the sides of the radiator with supplied hardware. Just need to drill a few holes in the mounting flange. At least that's how mine went, and I'm assuming they are all the same way.

Here is the radiator for a 351, I don't what you are running. http://www.amazon.com/Northern-Radiator-205137/dp/B004BT0196/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1442429393&sr=1-1&keywords=northern+radiator+205137 Here is the shroud with dual Spal fans. http://racewayparts.com/z40069dualelectricfanshroudkit.aspx ​ Cheaper than $629

I bought a radiator from Northern Radiator, and I am absolutely shocked at how much better it works than the stock one. Quality constuction, decent price, and made in the USA. They also make electric fans and shrouds for them. I would highly recommend them. The website doesn't give the price, but find the numbers you need, and then I did a search and found it on Amazon. http://www.northernfactory.com/HIGH_PERFORMANCE/SEARCH_BY_VEHICLE/FORD/MUSTANG ​

I did. It was well worth it in my opinion. I talk about it in the beginning of this video, after that, I just ramble on about stuff unrelated to your question. It wasn't acid though. It went through a giant hot tank to remove EVERYTHING, and then it went into a rust removal tank that used electolosis to remove the rust, not acid. It doesn't damage any of the good metal like acid will. They could leave it in there for months, and pull it out and it would be fine. I was working on a 68 Shelby and the owner decided to save some money, and took it to a place that had an actual acid tank, and when it came back, there were a bunch of pin holes around a patch that we put on the quarter panel. I know they weren't there before, because I used a spot light on both sides of the repair to look for pin holes and weld them up. It ate up perfectly good metal.

I think we have a new leader in the "Best Avatar" category. Sorry Pak.

LOVE the flush tail lights. You will need to let us know what you did and what materials were used.

That is my favorite factory color. That will be gorgeous.

I would like some other opinions on this, if you don't mind. Maier replaced the one piece X brace with this more "adjustable to fit" brace. I'm sure it works great when paired with subframe connectors, but it just doesn't look nearly as stout as the one piece it replaces. http://www.maierracing.com/product/z-brace/ ​

Cool build. Since will soon have all of that power and torque, have you thought about subframe connectors yet?

You're welcome. Thankfully (I guess), I'm too broke to buy them right now. One of the many pitfalls of children. I can't wait for you to post a video of them in your car. It should be much cooler than a tail light sitting on a table.