69Midd4Stang

Sorry! You are 110% right on the Windsor. Just contacted the owner and they reminded me of it without prompting. I know the family that have the car tucked away so questions and answers are easily obtained. Thanks

Looking for a recommended location to have my 8 track radio restored. The radio operates but the 8 track is requiring TLC. I am located in British Columbia Canada so if there is anyone in my neck of the woods so to speak that would be a bonus. Thanks!

69 Mach 1 - 351 Cleveland - All original parts to the car present - Car Value Once Restored is ???? I have found the above car parked for 39 years in a garage. I am attempting to determine what a reasonable purchase price is but more importantly what the car is worth on the open market when it is restored. The intent it to undertake a solid, clean and upper end restoration but not a full rotisserie restoration unless the value is there to do so. I understand that there are many variables here but on line research has confused the matter further in that I am finding similar models restored ranging from 24K - 70 K. Would appreciate some forum feedback to see what others feel about the value of such a car.

Update: 1. rebuilt my rebuilt radiator and add the dimple tubes to assist with cooling. 2. Replaced Clutch fan. 3. Tested bubbles and confirmed no presence of fuel. 4. Re-Torque of head bolts no concerns here. 5. Bypassed the heater core and found no change. 6. Reconnected the heater core and found that the bubbles were no longer present in the system. (somehow?) and system began to pressurize. Assumed Air lock was released (some how) as the engine began to run cooler but still not correct as heating up when in slow moving traffic. Received advice from fellow big block owners to replace the clutch fan system with a fixed fan and spacer. Removed the radiator to exchange the fan system and have found the engine now running hot again!! Assume air lock has returned. Believe that the problems could be related to the 390 GT Alum Carb plate which has the cooling fluid running through it. I am going to bypass the plate and see if this indeed can be confirmed as the source of the air lock, overheating aspect. Looking to see if anyone has a similar carb spacer and has experienced anything similar related to air locks and engine heating conditions. Seems a very suspect item in the system and is at the top of the cooling system which could potentially trap any air in the system. Thank you in advance for any feedback!

All surfaces on the block, head and exhaust were machined. It was my intent to do it right the first time to avoid this sort of situation. I will look into the gas analyzer after re-torque of the head bolts. I am optimistic that re-torque of the heads will solve the problem.

We continue the search :detective: to see where the problem lies and I will update then. Cheers!

Mach1Rider - Thank you for that point. I will review the torque on the heads. This would be a strong possibility based on the potential transition during the start up. I recall reading on the internet that it was a good practice for yearly review of the head bolts on the big block engines. Block was tested for cracks prior to rebuild. So I am limiting that this can be in the play at this point BUT one never knows. det0326 - Yes to running OEM belts and Pulleys on FE. Can you please add why you asked this question. Thanks I am always appreciative as to brainstorming that this forum presents! It is amazing to gain the insight of the many who participate here. Thanks!

I have just installed my rebuilt 390 4v and have experienced the engine running hot 200+. I have undertaken several steps to try and burp the system and check for issues but have yet to find the solution to the problem. That stated here is a brief description of a concern that continues regarding high heat of the engine system: The engine at Idle gets up to the 180 level and the flow in the rad is very strong as the therm opens up. There are bubbles visible in the rad once the thermo opens and they do not dissipate. The engine will sit at the 180 during idle but when it is run higher the idle the engine slowly creeps up to the 200+ level Noticed: Bubbles in the flow of the rad after thermo opens up. They do not dissipate and continue to be consistent during the time of watching the flow over several minutes. The system does not build up pressure during operation of the motor. I can remove the cap during running at the 180 level with out any pressure or bubbling of the system. The system does build pressure once the engine is turned off. Steps to date: Gauge, sending unit, and operating temp confirmed by means of thermo gun. Installed new 180 thermo, recently dropped to a 160 thermo Rebuilt Carb, Rebuilt Dist Confirmed Timing and fuel mixture Pressure Test cooling system, Pressure test Rad Cap Confirmed Head Gaskets are not installed backwards Rebuilt Rad - 3 core - Sprayed water on the front of the rad and entire surface dried Rebuilt Waterpump I have the large spacer plate under the carb which has the cooling system flow thru it. Looking to see of anyone has any thoughts on what to check next or steps for determining why the motor is running hot. Also why and where the intake of air in the system is coming from once the thermo opens up. This is the one item that has me wondering where and why they are in the system. Your time and assistance here is Greatly Appreciated!

Looking for suggestions on how to diagnose and repair my tilt away steering system. It stopped working last year just prior to the winter shutdown. I have checked and replaced the hoses from the engine and canister to the interior mechanism. Any thoughts on how best to systematically diagnose the situation would be appreciated.

I recently purchased 15x8 for the back and 15x7 for the front for my convertible. I did consider the concern of rotating the tires but as I am a fair weather driver and thus not putting many miles on per year I did not feel this was going to be a large concern in the long run for me. I have a friend with a 68 who indicated rubbing concerns with regards to two wide a tire on the front of his car. This was a concern for me and thus keeping things a little restricted here was my thoughts. I worked with my local tire shop and went with a 235/60 on the rear set and a 215 / 60 on the front. The tire tech noted that using the 215 on the front would keep the overhang aspect of the tire in line with the rear. This keeps the tires similar in viewing. I am very pleased with the setup and have had many positive comments on the rims and tires since installing them.

Brian - It sounds like you and I are similar on the gauge other then I am running a 180 thermo? How do you feel your engine is at during the summer heat? I will look into see if I can locate a better quality sending unit. Thank you all for the feedback!

I can certainly understand your comment on the gauges. I was hoping for a "feel" as to how other gauges were showing under similar conditions. Maybe another question - any thoughts on how best to review temp level of the engine to allow confirmation of the operation of the gauges. New sending unit was installed as well.

Looking for feedback and thoughts on the temp gauge levels. Running a 390 with a 180 degree thermo in it. At idle the gauge sits at about the 3/4 level. When driving the gauge rides at 1/2. Wondering how others appear to be on their gauges as to see if I am running hot or not.

Looking for the 69 390 hose which connects the PCV to the carburetor plate. Very specific hose. Scott Drake does not sell them, Mansfield shows the unit but no longer has them.

That is the one that is currently in my car and needs to be replaced. Interesting comment on the Grande version. I will see what my local suppliers say about that aspect of the puzzle. Cheers!

I had not thought of the part number and will check for this. With all that I am hearing it would appear that this may not be the original carpet to the car. No evidence of why it would have been changed over but one never knows unless you are lucky enough to be the original owner. I was hoping to find the build sheet, but sadly I could not locate it when I was removing the carpet. I remain optimistic that I might find it elsewhere as I have heard they can be tucked away in other areas of the car. Thanks for the feedback!

The current carpet in my convertible has both the heal and toe pad. It looks to be the original carpet but it may not. Suppliers of new carpet have advise that 1969 did not come with the toe pad but they can add one if needed. Did the 69 models come with our without the toe pad as I am looking to replace mine with the correct style for my car?

Can anyone assist me by confirming the correct type of transmission fluid to be used in a 4 speed Toploader. Thanks

Anyone aware of where the dark teal power steering pump paint in spray form can be purchased?

Looking for feedback, positive or negative, for using a wider (8") rim on the back of my car. Thanks!

Is there any means of replacing / repairing the mastic seal that flexes between the two backglass pieces on a convertible top? Or does this mean its time to replace the top entirely? This would seem to be a shame as the top is in good condition other then the seal.

Thank you all for the feedback! The 351 and 390 are the two engine sizes that are shown with badges in the 1969 Ford Mustang Promotional Document. Neither vehicle was shown with the a hood scoop. I also found the 351 badge shown with a part number in the "1969 Ford Autolite Body and Collision Parts Catalogue". My car does not have a hood scoop and thus does have the 390 slanted badge red background with silver numbers (faded a touch at this point). I will load a image once I figure out that process (newbie here as well). Has anyone ever stumbled across a reproduction or OEM of the 390 badges?

Will do on both aspects. Thank you

First time posting (ever) Recently acquired a 69 S Code 4 Speed Convertible. Starting down the road to bringing the car back to the original Marti Report condition. The car has 390 badges located on the front fenders just below the scripted Mustang emblem. Discussing them with some of my local Mustang friends and there is confusion as to authenticity of these badges. Most feel they are an add on after the fact and thus not correct to the car. I have found the same 390 badges on the original 1969 Mustang Marketing Magazine but have not found them anywhere else. I did find that another forum member did post a 1969 Blue GT S Code with the same fender badges as my car has. I am seeking assistance to determine if these emblems are accurate to the car, is anyone reproducing them, or can they be brought back to new condition, any other history on them. Thank you