My Mach 1

Hey thanks for the input guys. That's a cool color interior Jet445. I like it. I was able to get a refund from Damien at Dashes Direct for the door panels because they simply did not match. I was talking to Gene Painter and will just get him to redo my original door panels. I'm just waiting for the sample colored vinyl to arrive to confirm the color..I like the suggestion to take a sample of my interior to a paint store and have them match up the "dark red" in a vinyl paint and try it out. If they can match it up at least close then I'll keep the interior dark red. Frankly I do like the red because it's a different color. I talked to TMI and they say 5 weeks for them to make a full set of dark red seat covers and same for Gene on the door panels. If I can find a store to make up some vinyl paint I'll be very happy!! I'll keep you guys posted.

Hi All, Does anyone on here have any experience dyeing the interior trim on your mustangs? How did things turn out? How does it look and are you happy with the results?Here’s my predicament I ordered new deluxe door panel in 3D Red from Dashes Direct with matching red carpeting on the bottom of the door panel for my Mach 1.The Red is more of a Maroon as opposed to dark red.So it’s a different colour red. The seat covers from TMI are dark red but very dark aswell and slightly different than the door panels. Now both of these are completely different red from the rest of the interior which is a brighter red and not Maroon. So I was thinking about ordering a set of seat covers in black from TMI and dyeing the rest of the interior black to match. So there’s no mismatch in the reds.

Hey Bob, sorry for the delayed response. I’ve been extremely busy with work, just got married and honeymoon. Do you still need Dizzy?

Hmmm - not sure - I can try to find out

I have an FMX trans for free to anyone. Was rebuilt 1000 miles ago with a 2800 TCS Stall converter.My zip is 98230 which is Washington.

Hi Bob , do you need a pic of my unit?

Hi Bud, I have a factory 351w dizzy and it has a Pertronix in it already. It was all custom curved 2500 mile when my engine was rebuilt. Let me know if you're still looking for one

Hi guys, I just installed a Paxton SC 69 Mach with 351w and now I need clearance under my hood in order to close it.I need to cut a hole for clearance and want to install a B9 scoop. My Mach 1 doesn't have the "pie shaped" holes with the cross bar but has a large stamped hole covered over with metal that the original scoop bolts to.It looks like that piece is held in place with putty. So is it just a matter of taking off the factory Mach 1 scoop and prying the piece that covers the stamped hole?

Hi all, I'm contemplating putting a steel bellhousing in my Mach 1 and was looking for some opinions of if its worth it or not? I mean do clutches really blow up if I buy a good quality clutch like Valeo or Spec? My 351W dynoed at 435 hp and 430tq at the flywheel. And it's looking like I'm going to install a Paxton Novi 1200 this summer. So what do you think?

Hey Barnett468, you're right! I just checked out McLeod's website and they sell a T5 with a 26 spline input shaft 2.97 1st and a .63 5th OD for $1995.00. So I think a nice gear set like the Astro Z Spec and tightened up with new bearings and syncos will easily handle the 435 tq at the flywheel on my car..I just won't do no 4000 rpm clutch dumps...

OH yeah? Really? I didn't know that Mccleod made T5s! I'm gonna to google that right now and report back.. Thanx !,

Yeah that's true Barnett468. I'm looking at upgrading the internals with a Astro Z Spec Kit with 2:97 1st gear. I also want to talk to Walt at ProMotion Performance regarding some better internals or one of his better built T5s. I looked in a TKO but the cost is prohibitive due to the fact that I'll need to change all the other accessories also i.e.: clutch, bell, cross member etc.I want to pull the trigger within the next couple weeks.

I was also planning on getting micro polishing ($400)done before the Cyro ($350)I'm thinking - if this will help strengthen my T5 to take some abuse then it will be worth it.And it might also help a lot of others who are also wrestling with the age old question of "How do I upgrade my T5 to take more that than 350tq without breaking the bank?"It'll still be half the price of a TKO500 or 600 plus bell,cross member etc..etc..My Mach puts out 435hp / 435lbtq at the flywheel and I was toying with the idea of adding Nitrous. I don't do clutch dumps or power shifts...But I don't know...I'm not sure yet..I also just went up to 15" Magnums from 14"s with MT275x60x15 Drag radials on the rears and 28x6x15 Sportsman on the fronts.I can't wait to try the car out.But we've seen a ton of friggin snow up here in Vancouver so I haven't had a chance to take the car out.

Apparently they'll last 2-3times longer because the wear resistance is improved. They won't warp and when it's time to machine them the finish on them is second to none...Pretty cool.

Yeah, I'm going to try it out on my T5 to see if it make a noticeable difference. My buddy will tear it down then I ship it out for the process my buddy will reassemble it and we will see what kind of a difference it makes....Truth be told I'm kinda excited about it.

Hey Guys and Gals, has anyone on this forum heard of Cryogenics? I was talking to a machine shop that mentioned they do this for the engines and the tranny shop they use does this treatment for the gears and mainshafts in the trannys they rebuild. This Cryogenic treatment supposedly changes the molecular striucture of the metal by changing Austenite into Martensite by cold tempering the crankshaft or gears or mainshafts for instance which results in 3 things. 1-strengthens the metal, relieves residual stress in the metal and increases resistance to wear. Has anybody tried this or has any experience with this process.It's approximately $350 for a disassembled trans including case or $500 for a disassembled engine including the block. Just wondering if it works? Or if the results are worth it?

Yeah I did mine last summer. I had no knocks out either. I used Modern Driveline's hydraulic clutch set up. In order to do it properly you must remove the m/c and brake booster but you don't have to remove the dist block.I basically installed the clutch pedal and linkage and marked where the linkage should connect to the clutch master and drilled the hole there.Make sure to keep the linkage straight and not tilted to the left or to the right from the pedal - and even though it doesn't look like it,the clutch mastercyclinder does fit under the booster. I'll see if I can take a couple of pics tomorrow for you.

Hi all, I'm looking to replace the headliner in my 69 Mach. My question is - do I need to remove the windshield and/or the rear window to replace the headliner? Thanks for the responses.

I ended going with the hydraulic system from Modern Driveline and love it. For me the install was a bit of a pita...but they were very helpful. She's all done now and everything works well with no binding or funny stuff.

Well I thought about all that - head gaskets etc but my engine only has 900 miles on it. We built it 3 yrs ago but I only drive it about 300 miles a year (summer / sunny days only) so I don't want to pull it apart again. Yeah my boost is only going to be 6 psi which for me is fine. I currently have 435hp / 435tq at the flywheel. At 6psi boost it's going to put me in at 610hp at the flywheel which is pretty sweet. At only 6psi, using a blow through carb system,the air temp will be cooled enough and detonation shouldn't be an issue. However I'm still going to use some kind of spark controller and of course a pressure reg and upgraded fuel pump.I'm going to have my Holley 650dbl pumper Ultra Street Avenger modified to a blow through carb.

I bought them from Shawn at Street or Track. Give him a shout - he's super helpful.

Well I think that there's 2 schools of thought here. There are many who go with low compression and high boost (+12psi) and others who run with high compression and low boost (6-8psi) The higher CR will certainly help you at the lower rpms. If you factor in the meth injection I'm going to be using which will drop the charge temp considerably it should make for a pretty kick ass ride.As Barnett said and I agree...I will also be looking at some kind of component to keep the timing on target.

Bilisteins all the way. I got the on my Mach and I love them. You can order them in street or sport valving.I got sport valving. My car handles great, firm but not bone jarring. I replaced all four of the no name brand shocks that were on my car for 23 yrs. But in all fairness I only drive the car in the summer and on nice sunny days.

I have forged internals with 10.7:1 compression ratio....it's a tad high but we will use meth injection to cool the charge. Paxton doesn't have a provision for a/c of p/s but that's not a problem.I don't have a/c and relocating the batt is no big deal. Byron, I took a look at Torqstorm's website. Definitely better pricing and a nice looking product. Paxton is certainly pricey - I'm in Vancouver Canada and to get it here is $4800 landed vs Torqstorm @ $3700....I'm gonna call Torqstorm on Monday and have a chat with them. I would like to know what rpm their unit kicks in at. Anybody else have any thoughts? Did you like the results of that mod.... For those of you that have done it.....Were you happy with that mod? Did it make a noticeable difference for you?

I've been thinking and looking into the idea of supercharging my 351w Mach. Looking at the Paxton Novi 1500 which is a centrifugal designed unit that fits under the hood and has an option to fit on either passenger or drivers side under the hood. I will most likely choose the passenger side mounting and will have to relocate the battery to the trunk with Paxton's battery relocation kit. Is anyone doing this or has anyone done this and has some thoughts or advice?