Rsmach1

That should work, just be sure to tighten them down good so ya don't tweak the flanges.

And if you have to dent em a tad don't worry about power loss. Here is a vid I ran across, the results surprised the heck out of me.

Looks great RPM

The RemFlex gaskets Prayers1 spoke of are probably the best at sealing today.

I don't think that's correct Ray, jmho, but dissimilar metals expand/contract at different rates that will = leaks, and exhaust leaks at the head can = burned valves. Ford did use exhaust manifold gaskets, at least on the original engines I've came across. My headers didn't leak for years with the "stock type" Felpro foil gaskets and "old school safety wiring" of the header bolts (pre Stage 8 days lol) Edit; As far as what Ford used I should of said heat shield and not gasket, it was a thin piece of tin.

The valve should be in the front port of the M/C (for the rear brakes), there's really no reason to have one for the front disc's unless the M/C sits low in the car. The problem you've described of excessive pedal travel is typical of air in the system. Did you check the caliper orientation?

I've always had great luck with Hooker headers (knock on wood). From posts over the past few years seems there qc ain't what it used to be. I would try and return/exchange em, and see if it's just that set. Or maybe try contacting Hooker directly.

Well yes they do go bad, just like any electronic device. I've had the best luck mounting them inside the passenger compartment and not in the engine bay.

There's always MTF's bezel with whatever gauges you like http://www.mustangstofear.com/page.php?page=parts_catalog&yr=69-70&cat=interior&scat=carbon_fiber_interior_pieces∏=gauge_clusters_with_lights Or Year one's bezel https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964-73-mustang/apd697

Oh yeah for your other questions the M/C bore should be 1" for that M/C and the residual pressure valve should already be in the M/C. Adding another one will NOT help.

With the car off in a power brake car the pedal is typically hard, this doesn't mean there is no air in the system. Your symptoms indicate there is indeed air somewhere. Did you thoroughly bench bleed the M/C ? Another VERY COMMON mistake when replacing calipers is to install them on the wrong sides, this leads to the caliper having an air pocket that can not be bled out, when the caliper "appears" to be on correctly. You would think having the bleeder facing straight up would be correct, but in the case with these calipers the bleeder should be at an angle. check em and let us know if you still have an issue.

One things for sure... It rubs lol

What I did was to bypass the resistor wire by removing it and replacing it with a 14g wire. Yes Pertronix says it's OK to use the stock resistor wire, but after going through 2 igniters in 6 months, I was told (in another forum) to remove the resistor wire from the picture, and I've had no problems since.

I like Rsanter's Minilite idea, and they are available in 17" from 7" to 11" wide here http://www.vintagewheelworks.com/products/wheels/v48

Have you checked the voltage going to the module? What is it? If you're using the stock resistor wire that could be the problem. Pertronix says it's "ok" to use but many have found including myself, removing the resistor wire and giving the module a full 12v solved the problem. Also be sure to check the engine ground.

That's what I said lol.

LOL that's why it's always a good idea to check all the connections before assuming something is bad (ask me how I know). Glad you figured it out.

Here is some info from a few weeks ago mach u http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/54936-upper-mounting-bracket-for-champion-radiator/ Edit; CJ Pony parts, NPD, and most mustang parts places sell the oe style bracket. https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_bracket_upper_radiator_saddle_improved_repro-143674-2824.html

Point well taken Bob. I should have said for the 69 model's in my post, as 90% of the cars I've dealt with are 69's, and of those the big block towers with 351w'are a rarity. I could see Ford upgrading to the big block towers along with the bigger spindles in 70 and that would make sense. That'll teach me to be a little more specific lol. Thx Bob Randy

Maybe try one of Duralasts AGM batteries?

Nice work, I see a way for you to make some extra $. ;)

The reinforcement was only standard on big block cars, as some have stated Ford used what was available when putting these cars together. Out of 3 cars near me (all M code) only 1 has the reinforced towers, and unfortunately mine is not the 1 lol. So don't feel left out RPM. Edit; But For some reason alot of cougars have em. Go figure. PS. I believe all the GT350's got em also.

I have to agree with Bryonbush, if you're gonna upgrade your steering a rack is the way to go. If $ is the issue you can rebuild your control valve yourself for around $60 bucks and it's not all that hard to do, and save for a rack. I just don't see spending the $ to upgrade to a Borgenson, when all is said and done you'll still have a vintage style steering system. JMHO.

Believe it or not Walmart's batteries are one of of the top rated batteries by Consumer Reports, they are made by Johnson Controls, the same company that makes Interstate batteries.

I've heard some say they've run 15X10s with a lil over 6" B/S, but also required wheel well/bump stop mods. 15X9s think work with 5.5" B/S, but I personally have not tried either. With your lips rolled you shouldn't have any issues with a 255/60-15 on 15X8s as that's what I run with minor rubbing non rolled lips (think 4.5" B/S but can't remember lol). I have about 2.5" clearance to the Leafs so with more B/S it might work. At any rate being the tolerances on these cars vary so much what clears one, might not clear on the next, so your best bet is to measure your car. That way you know what will fit.