Rsmach1

Ahhh, so you're the one I send my birthday wish list too? lol

Cool, when you set the timing be sure to disconnect and plug the distributor vacuum line, once set reconnect it. Hopefully this helps with your issues let us know how it goes. Edit; factory called for 6°, you can try it at 10°. I would run premium fuel. If it runs ok great, If it pings/knocks under load or low rpm cruise, back it down to 8° and try it again.

Primary/secondary shoe orientation correct (Shoe with more material to the rear of the car)?

Definitely should NOT use it for a parking brake.

Well, worth a try lol. So just be sure to check the pump, preferably with a primer, or if you're getting a new dist your old one (less the gear) and a drill.

Well it's been a while since I shopped for a dist (almost had to take a nitro pill when I saw the prices lol). No doubt MSD is the best, stay away from pro comp and proform, I have no experience with pertronix distributors. When I put my car back together I'll probably just use a Duraspark and a MSD box (yes old school). Might be a good time to start a new thread to see what everyone is running and get some opinions. Edit; Depending on how long you've had your's you might try calling Summit to see if they will take it back and give you credit towards an MSD. Tell them what happened, Never hurts to try.

Good point Ray.

Interesting, if the gear does indeed simply slide off after the roll pin is removed that means the pin is carrying 100% of the load. Normally as stated by 1969_Mach1 they are pressed on, which helps carry at least some of the load. If you are using a HV oil pump, I'd probably go with a different distributor to help avoid this issue. In fact I'd probably avoid this dist all together. Nice to see you back 1969_Mach1.

I would also recommend you turn the engine over (2x) by hand and check the cam gear real good.

Wow Brian, you could eat off that intake, it's cleaner than my dishes lol. I miss my old FE cars :-/ I would still use a primer and a drill, this will better simulate the pump at speed.

So stock 69 351w 2v (very nice car and story btw), what octane fuel did you use? Disregard the compression/cam questions.

Ty Ray, off to check it out.

OK, getting back to the matter at hand TinMan, because you stated you had hardened seats installed I'm guessing the engine has been rebuilt. Do you know if it was done stock? Any idea what compression? Stock or performance cam? You will need a timing light, and if you can't see the the marks, the balancer tape. With the above info and the tools we can get started tuning (much more to come after this). As usual not my thumb.

Could be the oil pump, or something got by the p/u screen and lodged in the pump. If you have an oil pump primer I would definitely hook it up to a drill and see how it spins, if not I would get one.

I would +1 but it might seem self serving as it came from a link in my post lol.

Here's a write up https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/ As for your balancer if you can see The TDC mark, you can always buy a tape with the marks and attach it to the balancer. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163594?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=Cj0KEQjwte27BRCM6vjIidHvnKQBEiQAC4MzrUs9fhlzGjFt1BrJQZNSGGJ9VsegavzRwg5qtHENCiYaAm2g8P8HAQnot my thumb

So having sat for so long 1st thing I'd do is a major tune-up. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and points if so equipped. What carb? Has it been rebuilt since it's been stored? Running lean can be another cause of running hot.

You want all the fuel to burn, it's all about efficiency, retarding the ignition timing will cause an engine to work harder, working harder causes heat. Too much advance will cause detonation, this will cause heat as well, having as much advance as you can, without detonation, is where an engine will run most efficient. As for your balancer, it will have timing marks engraved, you simply need to clean it off to find the marks. Edit, a bad tune will cause an engine to run hot, be it timing, poor spark, fuel mixture.

Ain't that the truth lol. You'll get there, and it is looking good.

+1 running rich and rebuild the carb.

Nice looking car Alvin. I like the taillight mod.

+3, and/or red Scotch Brite pads

#1. Get working gauges, personally I NEVER run an engine without a temp and oil pressure gauge. #2. Invest in a timing light (you can get a cheap one for like $30 bucks), if you want to adjust timing you NEED TO HAVE ONE! Retarding an engine will make it run HOTTER. You want as much advance as possible without the engine pinging (detonation). A 180° thermostat is perfect.

I agree, it looks GREAT just the way it is. Stop judging it, just get in and drive it lol.

+1, For performance use .060 over is pushing it with any stock sbf block. Ideally .030 is max, the most I would go is .040 and only if it all checks good. This is not to say it hasn't been done, you just have to know going in with higher hp/torque levels, really bad things can happen...