Rsmach1

Remember to disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the distributor when checking your timing.

OK, well with 4v pistons (basically a flat top with 4 valve reliefs) and your stock iron heads your static compression ratio is about 10.5-1. You MUST run the highest octane pump gas in your area, 89 won't cut it. Once you get your distributor vacuum lines situated, and a tank full of premium, check your timing again, both initial and how much advanced your getting, also see at what rpm the mechanical advance starts, and what rpm it's all in at. Edit Once you do this we can start looking at your plugs, carb, and timing adjustments.

No DCR is a mathematical equation that tells you what the "working compression" of an engine is. It helps determine what octane is needed, and helps guide how much timing you can run to avoid detonation, and your dieseling issue. Vicfreg is correct about plugging the port closest to the distributor, be sure to re-time the engine after doing this as you will probably will find the initial timing, as well as total is more advanced than before.

I'm guessing you're using the stock 69 351w heads?

OK, if your builder used "stock" type 4v pistons your compression ratio is around 10.5-1, too high for 89oct gas, you need premium at MINIMUM if that's the case. You need to ask the builder what pistons he used, and need specific info on the cam, brand and specs. Even with 2v pistons you're static CR will be 9.5-1, and depending on cam specs that will most likely require premium fuel with iron heads. Once we know for sure what pistons, and cam(part #s will help) then we can start by figuring out your DCR (Dynamic Compression Ratio) Randy

+1 with MikeStang on the total timing, 34-36 is usually about max. Dieseling is caused by hot spots in the combustion chambers, causing the fuel to ignite without a spark, typically this happens with very lien mixtures, high compression low octane, among other things.

Not sure you would need to plug that hole, might be there for a reason, cooling?

Hi Rick, so before anyone can really even begin to give you any advice there's a lot we need to know. Details on the engine itself, ie. 2v or 4v, rebuilt, with what pistons, compression ratio, what cam, what heads, what carb, what gas, ect. It's important to list everything you can about the engine and be as specific as possible.

A couple things to keep in mind, in time the cut lines will become more visible as dirt sticks, and it will begin to discolor from sun exposure.

I can only attest to durability, some of the customers at the dealership I worked at had it installed on the lower portion of their cars (Bugatti's, Lambo's, Aston's). It does a good job at protecting the paint, but it's definitely not bulletproof, lol. I've never seen it being applied so can't comment on that.

Agreed, your paying for convenience as they are $285 and change shipped.

Yw

Haven't ordered mine yet but I've heard good things about the stainless.

As far as I know they fit pretty tight to the top of the tank, if you went with a early 16 gal tank and the later tank armor for the 22gal you'd probably gain some clearance.

If looking for a little added protection this is an option http://tankarmor.com/index.php?id_product=10&controller=product

You are sealing a system that is supposed to be vented, yes it can cause fuel starvation. There are vented twist on fuel caps available. The bubbles you're seeing is a vacuum being created in the line. Most likely air coming in thru the carb fuel bowls vents.

Think I get it lol, so on the tires Web site look up the recommended tire size for your front rim. Let's just say it's 225, but you want a 235, when looking at the rear go one size up from the recommended size like you did on the front, this should give you the same tire width to rim width your looking for.

Great job as always Ridge.

That is the 65-66 chart, here is the 69-70 http://www.dodgestang.com/Tire%20Fitment%20Guide%2069-70.pdf

It happens, I'll never admit how many times I've said to MYSELF (in a Fred Sanford voice) "ya big dummy" lol

+1 with Kris Not my thumb.

Cool, it you have any issues posts pics so we can figure it out :)

A pic with it installed showing where/how it interferes would be helpful. Since the pump arm moves down when activated and the bracket is above it, the only interference I can visualize is the bracket resting on the arm. As stated above a washer between the bracket and the carb base would solve that. Pictures please. Thx Randy.

That bracket should work, in your previous post you said it hit the arm, your putting the bracket over (above) the pump arm right? Try putting a washer between the bracket and the carb base if it rests on the arm.

My vote is Gloss white, no idea why someone would use flat.