Raven R code

I have about 5 of these now. They are unique looking and not sure where they go....

In reading about what gets painted what color, semi gloss is always mentioned. What isn't mentioned is what people have been using. I'm only assuming here (please correct if necessary) the blower motor in the Firewall is SGB ......not sure about the bracket. I'm also thinking the radiator is SGB but could be glossy too. Also, is the brake booster and master cylinder (painted together) SGB or a satin? Last, the pullys and harmonic balancer......SGB or satin (like the engine compartment paint)?

You should get 30% off those tires! Just saying.....

That sound like a plan!

Just remembered.......look the shell over really well before doing anything to it. My first one showed up without the "wavey" weatherstrip channel on the underside. Also, mount your door handle and lever to check fitment. CJPP was very good about doing the exchange.

Awesome!, thanks for the input.

After almost 2weeks , I have one Grommet installed (undamaged) . Lol. it looks like the small section under the steering column is attached wth 2 screws(and maybe a big washer?)

I was just about to post about the same thing. I found this stuff: https://herculiner.com/ and was thinking it might be a good option for the inside of the door shell.i like it because it pus a good coating on and can be applied with a small roller. Napaonline talks about how it closely replicates the undercoating on muscle cars .

Had good luck with the Dynacorn door shell. Should be 30% off at CJPP this weekend. I bought the more expensive one ($525?). The only problem I found was the opening for the door handle screw was not big enough and should be drilled out prior to painting. Save the old shell no matter what.....could eventually be straightened and install a good door skin.

If you have a tac car, and it's not modified from the standard 2-wire config, you can cut one of the 2 wires and insert a hidden kill switch. It will also defeat someone that tries to hot wire the car too.

Maybe they grommets are cheaper....but at least I got one on today. Try the other tomorrow. I ended up removing at little of the jute that surrounds the holes.

Feeling defeated right now! I cannot get the firewall grommets thru the hole without popping the top off the grommet. I've used rubber grease and all sorts of utensils and it still. Won't work. Help!

That is sweet!

Been through 2 cans of PJ1 fast black that didnt spray. Have another can being shipped.

Ridge....I had no idea they were textured too. They look sweet!

What are people using on the threads of the upper left water pump mounting bolt? This is the only mounting lot that threads into the water jacket. Pipe dope(special kind) or maybe teflon? I didn't know about this the last time I painted the motor and the spray out of hot coolant made a mess of the engine and engine compartment. thanks!

Underneath the cowl (at the base of the windshield) there were 2 blocks that support the back of the cowl. Does anyone have dimensions for these blocks....and what is the best material to use for these? Thanks!

+1 on evaporust. Great on small parts. It is magic as far as I'm concerned. I took a part that was rusty and scaley.....after soaking for 24hrs, it was clean as a whistle...i mean the surface looked brand new. No pit marks either. I'm not sure what material causes rust scale but on most parts there is no evidence of lost material.

Buffing?? Are these things visible once on the car? Or is buffing part of the cleaning process? Soaking in gas sounds good but how to soak it without bending is the question. Did you make a soaking tray?

Great finds! Thanks guys!

Does anyone have good documentation or a video on rebuilding the power steering control valve? Got mine all apart and all new components but looks like a jigsaw puzzle right now.

Again as a reminder.....I would stay away from any glue that dries to a rock hard state like epoxy. I know 2 people that tried that in the 90's and they both shattered. Urethane sounds like the better choice .

I would not recommend epoxy for door glass! It will shatter the glass on a hot day. Experience can be heartbreaking!

I bought 1 set with metal rings but the company used the same backer for both sides...problem was that one side had perforation slots for the back (to make it easier to bend for the curve) and the perforation slots were on the front for the other side and showed through the moonskin on the other side. I called (I think it was NPD) and the guy said it looked like they were all made incorrectly. So I went without the metal rings for the more accurate look. I think I got the better set from CJ Pony. So when buying the panels with metal rings, ask if perforation slots are visible thru the moonskin.

Anyone have a solution for cleaning rock hard hardened adhesive off of the retainers? I tried a test spot with paint stripper and it doesn't seem to penetrate the rock hard adhesive. I would try boiling them if I could find something big enough to hold them.