SunnDogg

The consensus was that the Daniel Carpenter door handles were hard to find, but generally were of good quality. When I spoke to NPD last week they stated part #22404-1 & 22405-1 wew DC's at $62.95ea. I intend to inquire again about the supplier before I actually place the order just to confirm.

Trying to decided which way to go myself. Leaning towards re-chroming mine once I dig them out and see how good of shape they are in. I looked around a bit in the Boss 302 and Concourse forums and read a little about Daniel Carpenter making a Ford tooling handle specific for 69 that is supposed to be a good option. I beleive NPD has them listed in their newest catalag.

http://mansfieldmustang.com/EngineExhaust.html

Working on a 69 S-Code myself. Have purchased quite a few parts from Bill at Mansfield and highly recommend him.

Might help for reference... http://mansfieldmustang.com/EngineFuelCarbp2.html

Try here. There are several on the forum that have the same setup as you. http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/

Try searching Mustang Monthly's on-line articels. They did one a few years back as a How-To. I sent mine to Rimblow Buddy about a year ago and couldn't be happier.

Which one do you have as the base is different between 69 and 70 since the key is on the column? Might also try the CJ forum as I've seen a few go quickly over there. Will help to have the date code too. Likely a circle 68 or 69. Very fair price so it should go quickly. Good luck.

GB302 - Would be interested in both rear and front sets with all 5 pieces. Any way we can buy from you direct and cut out the eBay fees and save each other some money?

http://mansfieldmustang.com/Transmission.html

http://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php/topic,18727.0.html

Might put up a want ad as there are several that have a stash of them but don't usually list them in the classifieds. Should be able to get close to your date code as well. Think i gave $325 for mine. Just don't use a C5TA truck bell as the depth is off. Might also try looking at West Coast Cougar.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/75943/

I am also restoring a 69 S Code and assure you it is not as budget friendly as putting a solid windsor together. Depending on what accessories, mounts, etc you still need to locate you will be competing with the CJ crowd a fair bit. Start collecting the correct 390 parts on the side as deals come along. You will also likely get more power from a stock 351 and performance parts are easier to come by.

Noticed these on eBay. Might be worth a look. Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MUSTANG-SHAKER-ADAPTOR-RING-FIT-2003-2004-MACH1-SCOOP-1969-1970-BASE-/170816707529

Picked mine up from OpenTracker along with a roller Idler arm. Search on the VMF forum for reviews (all very positive) and you should be able to get a discount if you mention you found him on VMF. Very nice guy to work with and has a nice catalog of parts. I have not installed mine as of yet, but from what I found in my research is that it was a nice improvement and worth the investment. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/

I recently rebuilt mine and found it to be pretty straight forward. I picked up a rebuild kit from Mark Williams (a search should bring up others who've had good experiences) and it came with an instructional CD that walks you through it. I eneded up needing a couple of new gears and he worked with me on those and talked me through a couple steps. http://www.toploaderheaven.com/

Just picked up a set of non-adjustables last week for my 390 project. New shafts, springs, washers, reconditioned stands and rocker arms for $150 shipped. Look brand new and no core charge. Found them from recomendations on the FE Forum. Very pleased. As far as i know CJ's originally came with adjustable rockers. http://www.rockerarms.com/

http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/idchart1.htm http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/main_case_id.htm http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/tailhousingid.htm Be sure to get the engineering numbers off of the case and tailshaft as they can fit multiple applications and can help determine value.

http://www.mustangtek.com/differential/Driveshaft.htm

For reference I picked one up within 100 miles of me just over a year ago for $200. No rust of any kind, but will need some body work. It was a deal for sure and lucky that I did not have to pay the expense to ship it. Personally, I would not pay more than $500 for just the hood alone. Maybe add another $200 if it has an original trim ring. Once you have it media blasted you will be well over the cost of a new hood and likely still need to put more money in to it for body work. If he thinks he can get a grand for it let him try and call back in a few weeks and offer $500. Only reason to pay more would be if you prefer/have to have an original part and the date code on the hood works for your car. I am one that prefers to have original parts wherever possible, but I am also so upside down on my project that I need to really justify the extra dollars on certain things.

Magnaflow offers a 2.5 (15816) or 3" SS system that seems to be popular. Fitting it to the stock exhaust manifolds will require custom downtubes, but seems to be a pretty common thing. I am working on a 390 setup and will likely use the 2.5" system as it appears to fit better overall. Not sure if I will by an H-pipe and cut it to fit or just take it to a muffler shop to make the final connection.

Has used parts for sale. I rebuilt mine using the kit from Muscle Car research and it is pretty simple to do. They have instructions on their site you can download and the link below has the part and a video on how to do it. They offer a kit as well. Hope this helps. http://www.cougarpartscatalog.com/c8zz-2b257-a.html

Adam, Sent you a PM. Please call. Ryan

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0308_select_correct_vintage_mustang_engine_paint/index.html