Rsanter

A friend with a 70 fastback wanted more tire but did not want to modify the back seat.
he simply marked where the fiberglass panels sat and came in that amount and doing the pie cut in the front .
he also removed the bracing inside those panels so the fiberglass sat right on the tub

I always made my own

I have a number of sets of the Australian 351c heads that I’m selling.
these have the 2V port size but have the closed chambers 
i have already cut some of the heads heads for the screw in studs and will be modifying some to go on Windsor blocks to make a clevor or a “bogus boss”
i will also be doing builds/valve jobs on some of them
Asking price for the heads (not modified) is $600
location is visalia California 

Double pole double throw switch
interrupt power to the MSD and the fuel pump

I made my own exhaust.
for hangers I modified and used the stock single exhaust one for the one side then dug through my stuff to find the other side.
the rubber parts were just so I replaced them,with belting material.
if you want all original they you,have to pay up, if you don’t need exact original you could just fab something based on the original,design

I have always rebuilt them myself.
i get the gasket kit and reed plate from NAPA
if yours has the issue of a rod knock I think I would get another one and swap the guts into your unit.
i have a number of the compressors so I’m sure I can find what you need. You can also contact Leigh Shorley in the Brisbane area as he may have some too.
i have a shipment getting ready to go to him in Australia so I’m sure he would let me add a couple parts to it if he does not have what you need

Just a guess but I’m thinking that the car seller is behind on payments and that the car will “disappear “ or get recovered in its incomplete state

I mounted the fenders.
then I mounted the headlamp extensions . My dad help them and I bolted them on after they were assembled 
 
the repo trim is crap, you need to have them off the car to even have a chance of getting them to line up

I dont believe they were painted ,they were black plastic ,i think i have a couple here i can check 

Can you imagine someone trying to “restore “ a Mach E when it’s 50 years old, much less even keeping it driving??

I have been wanting a belt grinder, ok I have a belt grinder but I have wanted a specific type of belt grinder.
so I finally broke down and built one.
the vac base was a $40 swap meet find.
all the steel was free, salvaged from other stuff. I can’t allow new or slightly used steel tubing go to scrap if I see it’s usable.
the motor was free.
the paint I already had.
the wheels I bought, was planning to make them but I wanted to move this along.
still need to buy the VFD

I have been wanting a belt grinder, ok I have a belt grinder but I have wanted a specific type of belt grinder.
so I finally broke down and built one.
the vac base was a $40 swap meet find.
all the steel was free, salvaged from other stuff. I can’t allow new or slightly used steel tubing go to scrap if I see it’s usable.
the motor was free.
the paint I already had.
the wheels I bought, was planning to make them but I wanted to move this along.
still need to buy the VFD

I have been wanting a belt grinder, ok I have a belt grinder but I have wanted a specific type of belt grinder.
so I finally broke down and built one.
the vac base was a $40 swap meet find.
all the steel was free, salvaged from other stuff. I can’t allow new or slightly used steel tubing go to scrap if I see it’s usable.
the motor was free.
the paint I already had.
the wheels I bought, was planning to make them but I wanted to move this along.
still need to buy the VFD

I have been wanting a belt grinder, ok I have a belt grinder but I have wanted a specific type of belt grinder.
so I finally broke down and built one.
the vac base was a $40 swap meet find.
all the steel was free, salvaged from other stuff. I can’t allow new or slightly used steel tubing go to scrap if I see it’s usable.
the motor was free.
the paint I already had.
the wheels I bought, was planning to make them but I wanted to move this along.
still need to buy the VFD

I have been wanting a belt grinder, ok I have a belt grinder but I have wanted a specific type of belt grinder.
so I finally broke down and built one.
the vac base was a $40 swap meet find.
all the steel was free, salvaged from other stuff. I can’t allow new or slightly used steel tubing go to scrap if I see it’s usable.
the motor was free.
the paint I already had.
the wheels I bought, was planning to make them but I wanted to move this along.
still need to buy the VFD

I have been wanting a belt grinder, ok I have a belt grinder but I have wanted a specific type of belt grinder.
so I finally broke down and built one.
the vac base was a $40 swap meet find.
all the steel was free, salvaged from other stuff. I can’t allow new or slightly used steel tubing go to scrap if I see it’s usable.
the motor was free.
the paint I already had.
the wheels I bought, was planning to make them but I wanted to move this along.
still need to buy the VFD

I don’t think that is going to be strong enough, the flat metal does not have the dimension to add the strength needed for safety.
so if we take your base idea, and add some material under the car. Think about on the convertable they add that lower pan.
i think you could add the convertable lower pans or you could add box tubing under the seat location
 
 Bob

I don’t think that is going to be strong enough, the flat metal does not have the dimension to add the strength needed for safety.
so if we take your base idea, and add some material under the car. Think about on the convertable they add that lower pan.
i think you could add the convertable lower pans or you could add box tubing under the seat location
 
 Bob

True, there is no replacement for displacement.
there is also no replacement for shedding a few pounds. If you want a drag car then that 429 is a good start.
if you want a car that will handle well then that’s a step backwards.
for me I would take what it would cost me and put that in the small block

The wheel tub is wider at the back than it is in the front.
when fitting wider/max width tires in the back you will get the inside of the tire contact the front of the inner wheelhouse before it contacts the inner rear.
so, what some people do is to slice the front half of the inner wheel house and move it inward which then leaves a long skinny pie shaped gap.
then you cut a piece of metal the size/shape of that gap and weld it in
 
i believe that is what is being referred to

So are you using a crime housing like shown or is it bare steel?
 
i have done this several ways but using the ford pump
I have always been able to find an adapter through summit that will go from the high pressure to AN.
now you need to look at what the pressure really will be because many power steering systems can over pressure the regular or lower grade AN stuff.
on my 69 I used product from Fragola that was rated for higher than the PS pressures.
 
for the low pressure side, I have welded adapters to the housing, I have also used a compression fitting on the little outlet and I have just used a hose clamp on the braided line

Out the front is correct for everything I have seen over the years.
 
i know a couple people that have the same concern as you plus wear on the front molding.
they leave them under the hood for driving and use a second pair or pins. Then put them in place for shows

So the next question I have is:
how well do your windows line up? If all is well you may want to just roll them down! Remove the felts, and then cover the glass with an static or adheasive wrap to prevent overspray.
 
who are you paying the shop to remove the trim and rear glass? That’s something I would look at doing myself.
 
who,is removing all the wiring and brake lines in order to properly paint/detail the engine bay

Some things to think about
 
you remove and reinstall:
emblems
bumpers
door handles
etc
 
how bad is the engine compartment and how extensive of a paint and detail,do,you want to do?
you might want to pull the engine and trans before sending to the body shop, pull the bolts and electrical out of the engine compartment to get a better paint job in there.
you may need to do blasting if there is rust and acid damage

X pipe is better
this is what I made for my car