Rsanter

I am in a different camp, I would rather port and install the larger valves in the 302 heads. Even better I like to run the earlier heads with the smaller combustion chambers. You can open up the area around the valves with a fly cutter also if you wanted to

That is not enough space heat wise. I would be very afraid of heat damaging the box as some point. ifmit was me I think I would slightly dent the headers and then install a header wrap in that area to insulate heat from getting to that box too much

I don’t recall but I got it from summit and it was specified as being for the 69 Mustang application. Through my research I found that it is basically the booster model as used on the boss429 but not concourse correct. I also opted for the full Crome just because. i originally was keeping the stock one but the willwood would not fit between that and the tower so I found the tuff stuff one was shorter and gave it a try. it was reasonable priced and it has a good fit and feel to it. the side bonus is that it makes it easier to work in that area due to the smaller dimension

You need to change it with an adjustable one so,you can dial it in

On my 69 I am running a booster from TuffStuff. I went that way because I wanted to use a willwood MC and it was interfering with the tower. The tuffstuff booster is basically the same one used for the boss 429 just not concourse correct. feels the same as the original booster and works great. Bought from summit and was cheaper than getting a rebuilt exchange unit

The replacement bushing and pins are easy to replace unless the stamped part is bad I would rebuild what I had. i did that with my 69 no problem

How about just order a stroker 351 short block and go from there. keep the original block as once you part with it you can’t go back

I understand what you are saying and I have seen lots of the small block towers that seem to me bulging a little in the center and causing the gap you mention. do you want to keep a stock look? Of you do I use a porta power to push the piece back and remove the gap then stitch weld the back side. if you do not care about original looks then I would use a porta power and weld then in place on the engine compartment side add the trans am brace on the inside and you are good to go

Seems like the wrong oil pan, pictures?

You can also look at ponycarbs to see how much they want they are really easy to rebuild, I have a spare I can send to you for $135 shipped

How about a ford 4100 carb. That’s is what I have on my 69 right now

Hit a wrecking yard lots of modern jacks there to choose from and ods are some will work great

I getting ready to head there on vacation. Is there any recommendations of things I must see? I am planning to go to the whiskey museaum and take a couple walking tours but was wondering if any of you had some insight as to cool things a machine and car guy would like

This is an older picture. I have more on the wall now. what I have been wanting to do,is hang a bunch of my intakes on the wall. I have designed a bracket in my head that would,hold them and guarantee they can’t fall but I haven’t had a chance to make it yet

I had an engine that was rebuilt, ran for about 20k miles and then sat for about 15 years. the water rusted the passages and gunked then up but good i removed the intake and the freeze plugs and dug as much cramp out as I could and then hit it with the pressure washer. Tons of crap came out. put it all back together and I was constantly getting the water in the cooling system turn to rusty solar immediately. i changed the water several times and even tried the off the shelf flushes. Did not do as well as I would have liked. i ended up putting some oxolic acid mix in the system several times and it has cleaned it up a bunch. i also put a filter in the upper hose and it was constantly catching little flakes

What it looks like you have there is the typical drum/drum dist block. if you want to do it the easy way you can remove the line going to the rear brakes. Install a short hardline that will go to the inlet port of an adjustable prop valve. These can be had from summit racing for reasonable cost. then connect the exsisting hard line to the rear brakes to the output of the adjustable prop valve.

If it was me I would put an aluminum intake on it and if you want to hide it just paint it with the engine. mild cam and if you go more than that the rocker studs, guide plates and roller rockers. port the heads, even a mild port will improve things. If you keep the stock manifolds then port those too what are you wanting for power out of this

As others have said, that is a 9 3/8 rear end. The housing is the same and the axles are compatible. you can just put the 9” center of your choice in the housing. Typically when I get those I scrap the Center and narrow the housing. for axles, I have aftermarket race axles that have the 4.5, 4.75, and 5” bolt circles. the axles are $250 a pair brand new

I have bought rims from Coker and have had no issues with them. what I did was have the tire shop spin the rims to verify true before pushing tires on them. You could also ask them to check for balance. They don’t have to be perfect but need to be close. if the rims are true and the balance is decent then you should be good. If there are balance issues from there then it’s the tire not the rim

Price can vary by region. Where are you? if you want the most money you can sell is a co plate system. Trans, shifter, belhousing, etc prices can vary from $400 to about $800 i just bought one with belhousing and shifter for $420

Port and polish the heads. upgrade to roller rockers or roller tip rockers. upgrade to 65-6 hipo exhaust manifolds and port them for greater flow peetronix ignition with high voltage coil. Paint coil to hide it select cam for a vehicle 1000 pounds heavier than yours. Basically select a torque cam like,would be used in an early bronco. This will give you the punch off the line you want to feel. You don’t have the carb to support the higher RPM this is an engine combo that I have built many times, this was more popular when people were more key or strict on keeping their car stock or for people that want very stock apprearing cars afternthis you can swap to a gear ratio of 3.00 or 3.25 if you have the 2.79 gears

Inventive, but I can’t belive that guy kept loosing all his bottle openers and had to keep making a new one. of course at the end he finally cleaned up the shop and found all the ones he misplaced

I think the looks are clashing

Perhaps, but what I know is that NASCAR uses long tube headers. They do not use tri-ys from everything I know is that the long tubes are for the higher RPM along with larger primary tubes

One trick if the headlamp buckets and end caps fit proper,y already/ don’t need work. Is to remove them and reinstall after adding a few spacer washers in between to gap them from the body. the less costly paint places don’t like to deal with Parts off of the car, doing this you can have the car painted as one piece without bridging the paint. then after painted you will remove them, install the new seal and reinstall without the washers