Rsanter

Remember the cougars has the power windows as an option. If your car was an execs car I would track down some factory period switches from a lincolin and use those. The switches were originally installed where the window crank would have gone Bob

Yes that is a valid concern. What you are referring to is the akermans angle which is the toe out on turns. The radius the frond wheels follow from the inside line to the outside line is very different. With all that said, unless you are racing, or unless you are a very experienced professional driver you will Likly never really notice any difference. This will cause a little accelerated wear on your front tires, you may loose a cople percent of their life Bob

What do,you want to do,with the car? To me that seems high but I'm not used to paying for labor,as,I do all my own work. I would,price some crate engines and think about ordering one of those. The late model pull out is a great idea but those cars are so old at this point odds are you will need to do a rebuild on that engine as well. Now if you can find one in reasonable shape or has been rebuilt and strip it for parts then you are good to go If you want more power I would be looking to,a stroker motor. Go 331 not the 347. The 331 does not put the wrist pin into the ring lands so it will be longer lived Bob

What part number did you get Bob

The large fake scoop sounds like the Shelby scoops used on the convertibles. Thos look good on those cars and can be made to function. A friend with a 69 coupe welded in a flat piece of metal over the indentation and did the bodywork. It looks good without the reverse scoop IMO Bob

69 mustang conv Factory power booster Factory frond disc Mustang SVO rear disc I have been running this system with the factory master cyl modified to remove the residual valve from the rear. I want to convert to using a billet master cylinder. What are you guys using for this? What's the good swap? What's the easy swap?....etc Bob

Is the coupe and fastback roof that much of a contour difference that you can't weld in a patch panel from a coupe I have a nice coupe roof if you need a part cut from it Bob

You can remove the tank and open it up and stick a pressure washer nozzle in it to clean it out. Look inside and see what it looks like from there. If the tank is really rented or beat up then replace it. If it's nice then keep it but be sure to put a new fuel sock on the end of the pickup. While the fuel sender/pickup is out test to be sure it is good. Replace if needed. Suspension needs inspected. If the boots are dry and cracked then they need replaced or the whole componet needs replaced. I have an order I like to do things. Get it running so you can evaluate it. Get it running and moving and stopping. Then get it handling ( suspension work), then do all the cosmetics. One word of caution. A car that has been sitting that long may have lots of original part on it even if they are not in the best shape. What is the history of the car? Has it been restored before or is it a survivor? There are lots of people around that hunt down the original parts to recondition so they can be used on a show car. It only original once as they say.... Try to save and preserve any original parts that you take off to replace. If you guys ever go to build a show car out of it as a tribute to dad you will be thankfull you did. I have a 69 conv that is a survivor car that dad and I are building. He wants some hod rod stuff and polished stuff on the car. More than I do. So we are taking original parts off and boxing them and putting the aftermarket stuff on the car. Not drilling any holes. Just trying to be kind to the car but still have a play toy Bob

Tape up the edges of the body panels and take them off to be stored seperate. That way you can try to avoid a repaint. Bob

Often they pick the cars at the car shows. Often they will photo several cars right after the show and then publish them little by little over the next year. If you have a car pro built many magazines have connections with the pro shops that will tip them of a really super car Bob

The spot welders are awesome, but I can't figure out your comment about you can't fit a mig but you think you can fit a spot welder? I have the miller version and love it. I have been spot welding these cars back together for a while now but I have the opposite problem. I use the spot welder everywhere I can and use the mig where I have to. I find that the tips are too small on those spot welders. I have trimmed my tips big time so they make a bigger more factory like spot. Catch is you have to spot weld a little longer to build the heat. So actually I think it works better that way Bob

There have been afew swaps done at the pro level that have grafted the later model sheet metal to the early car to use the whole front end. All looked like a boat load of work. If there is a decent kit to use that's what I would be looking at Bob

T5s are good transmissions overall I have had a couple I've put behind strong small blocks and driven a little aggressively. If you are really hard or abusive to the trans it will give out on you. If you play hard a few times, you will be fine Bob

For driving and having some fun....yes it will For road or drag racing, no it won't Bob

I don't like using the spot weld cutters anymore There is always the chance you are going gut into the metal you want to keep, spot welds of different sizes, and deformed spot welds. I use a 3/8 round carbide bur on a die grinder. I grind off the top of the spot weld moving the ball around a bit. I also use the edge of a 4.5" grinder on the spot welds. When the metal gets thin there is a blue ring that shows up in the metal around the spot weld. Then it's thin enough to break the metal free. Grind the base material flat and you are ready to go Bob

If you can pull the two sides apart, how about spray adhesive. The getto way would be to pull the part off that dosent have the wires and then put clear shelf paper on it. Anyone have an old junk one? How about a test to clean it up and run it through a laminating machine? Bob

I am installing the CPP integral power box in my 69 I chose those over the borgeson for a couple of reasons. Part of the return to center is actually in the caster of the alignment so depending on if you go from manual to power verses power to power you may have to add some caster Bob

First. If you have a mostly unaltered car that has family history you need to worry about preserving the car. Do not take it to some hack mechanic that says he can work on it. Try to get someone that knows mustangs. Sometimes you can fins local mustang enthusiasts that will done some work on the side for you and do a better job that shops will. What you will need to deal with at a minimum. Replace the brakes. Replace every piece of rubber in the brake system and the pads. Replace every piece of fuel line in the car and clean the tank and the fuel lines Rebuild the carb and install a new fuel pump Keep the old pump in case it an original one Change the oil and filter. Remove the distributor and prime the oil system and check for oil pressure. Reinstall distributor and fire off the engine. Replace all the hoses and coolant. Replace axle and bearing seals. Inspect the wheel bearings or replace them. Install new tires Check to be sure all the lights and signals work This is what I think is the bare. Minimum to make the begins of a safe car that has been sitting for a while. Fixing up the cosmetics is next Bob

I am not a fan of the rack&pinion system. They all have major compromises and they are a ton of money. First thing is that with most systems you loose turning radius. For me I like the borgeson and CPP type power steering box conversion that installs an integral power box. That is what I am doing with my 69 conv right now. If you install AC in the car I would just install a full correct factory in dash system and then if you want to use a smaller sander compressor with it that's fine. A factory type conversion will add value I think as it was an option. You said you are missing the original motor. Depending on how much you want to spend I would look at installing a aluminum engine (aluminum heads and block) for the cool factor and the weight savings. If it's not the original engine and you want to drive it then go for the cool factor. While you drive and enjoy the car you can look for the most correct parts you can find and stash them away for the future Bob

Engine and trans are mostly a bolt in. You may have a few clearance issues with the transmission but if you don't mind doing a little denting or trimming thn no problem. The issues you will have are with the exhaust clearance and the supercharger location.. You may need new headers unless you want to remove or trim the towers. Next issew is hood clearance. This may or may not be an issue depending on what the intake setup is. Depending on the price that could be a great deal. I think you should be looking at it. And what is the deal. Is the car a wreck and you are going to part it or is the car good and you are just taking the engine..... Bob

I did a 4 wheel disc conversion on my convertible and didn't drill any holes. I saved all the original parts. If you don't drill or modify stuff then I do not think it will hurt it. If there are items that need to be modified then I would buy spares and keep them aside for future. Bob

Gasket with a thin smear of black adhesive silicone. Note, I say smear not bead Bob

That's the L bracket with the taper hole in it? I think I have one of those Bob

Ordered about $700 in parts for it... Bob

Don't think fiberglass works all that well. What I have done in the past especially where thickness is an issue is to cut open a soda can and use the aluminum from that to make a backing patch. Make it as big as you can get away with and epoxy it on. Fill the missing part with epoxy and use an exacto knife to scratch a grain pattern into the epoxy. Be sure to rough up the aluminum material with sandpaper to give the best grip from the epoxy Bob