Rsanter

You can do a single turbo or 2 smaller turbos depending on what you want and how it will fit. With the CR you have I would be looking at a smaller single turbo and be sure to have a waste gate to get rid of excess boost so you don't over boost the engine. Getting blow through carbs to work with turbos or superchargers are a pain to get dialed in. If it was me I would include the conversion to injection at the same time. It will be so much better for the engine, easier to setup, and easier to drive with injection Bob

CPP Classic performance products Bob

Took one of my cars to the 50th show in Vegas Bob

They originally CAD plated I had mine replated and they came out great I did 3 sets of 69 buckets so I have 2 estra sets I could sell Bob

I am not a fan of the R&P systems as they all have shortcomings to them. You may want to look at using a system from borgeson or CPP. I just put a CPP power steering box into my 69 Bob

I may be interested, is there anything you,may want in trade? Bob

Mounting bracket for hose to frame is made onto the hose. Bob

What is the condition currently If the paint is good I would start collecting the parts to make the car a boss again and enjoy the car a bit as it is then start a resto after you save some money and have some of the parts to return it and do,it within your means. Till them enjoy,it of you may never regain the motivation to tire-redo the car. Is inspect the previous owner added the scoops because they liked them. I have a friend with a 70 Mach and he is adding the scoops because he likes them Bob

They repo a correct throddle cable bracket for the Holley 4 bbl but it costs like $50 You can get some aftermarket ones but I didn't like what I saw. For my car I just fabricated one Bob

Do you have a commercial electroplater near you? In the past I have sent spindles, rotors, calipers and such in to be cad plated or gold irridated. The coating is remarkably durable and easy to keep clean. Cad plating.....think of the brand new grade 5 bolts at the hardware store. Gold,irridating...think of the grade 8 bolts at the hardware store. One thing you need to keep in mind is that it will add a slight amount of thickness to the part so bearing areas will need to sanded down a bit after or protected before plating. Rotors will need the wear surface turned. Calipers will need the bore sanded and honed. Recently on my car ( a driver) I painted the suspension in a grey hammer finish and think it like really good Bob

You get the maximum HP from the lowest octane fuel that you can use without getting preignition. What octane you need is based on several factors. First is your mechanical compression ration Second is how much initial advance you have dial in and more important how much total advance you have Next is the cam you have. Some cams are compression building and other are compression loosing cams. Remember that guy you knew that had 12 cr and that fat loopy cam and bough he was a hot shot. Well that fat loopy cam with lots of overlap bled off a bunch of compression From there it gets more complicated. Piston dome shape, combustion chamber shapes, open verses closed chamber heads, port volume, port geometry, valve angles ( canted verses incanted as well as base valve angles),........etc These factors effect the fuel mixing, flame front travel and efficiency, charmer distribution, tumble, dictribution from cylinder to cylinder......and a whole bunch of other things All of these can effect the octNe required to avoid preignition. And by the way, if you are listening for the pinging sound as a way to tell if you have it of not. It's already too late. By the time you can hear it you've got it really bad. Modern cars have a knock senson on the block that detects the vibration or harmonic of preignition and then will automatically reduce the overall advance to avoid the condition Bob

Interference with the baffles The boss 302 pan requires a different pickup because of its baffles. Likly that is the same thing with the aftermarket pan Ask the manufacturer Bob

Where is the electric pump? Front or back? Electric pumps need to push, they don't pull well. They always need to be at the back Bob

The answer may be none None that I know of I have seen people adapt the original AOD floor shifter and do a little trimming and I have used the original 60s shifter with the AOD and it worked Bob

AOD is heavier Just get a spring rate a little lower than what was originally specified or trim a coil off. Bob

The 351c is a heavy engine. If,you have a car with PS, AC and a few other options the springs are not that different than the big block springs. I would look at the variable rate springs as replacements Bob

I put an AOD in a 67 coupe Nearly a direct bolt in Must use aftermarket cross member. Back then they were not available so I made one I used the original shifter but required some playing with it to work right. I think I did a little grinding on the stops so everything stopped and worked with the detents in the trans and the shifter....no big The AOD needs a kick down linkage to work properly and shift properly. If you do not use one you can wreck the trans ( so I am told) You need the block plate, the correct flex plate too Bob

Yes Bottom support and adjuster for qtr window tracks Bob

You can curve lexan in your oven at home. The qtr windows are small enough to do but the door glass is large enough you will need a commercial oven or a friend with a pizza oven. The cheap way to drop weight right now for the qtr windows is to remove the regulator, use the lower stop moved up to lock the window in the top position and also drill some holes in the plate the holds the tracks. Did you drill holes in the front bumper brackets? Old trick but effective I would not go to an aftermarket pin on trunk lid because then it's really not secure. Use a hole saw and take some weight out of the under structure and leave it at that. It's at the back of the car. The pin on hood is workable The fenders are not that heavy but the light buckets are. Can you get fiberglass ones or,perhaps use yours as molds and make your own. I will advise against fiberglass doors. There is a lot of stress on them if you are opening and closing them plus they provide protection in an accident. Stick with the stock ones and you can lighten them a little by carefully drilling some holes under where the door panels go. How about the dash? That lower dash has some weight, you could drill holes along the bottom where nobody will see and drop some weight. You can also drill the upper part behind the dash pad. Bob

You need to visit metalmeet.com Look at the techniques they use to replicate stuff like that. You have the original scoops so if you make paper patterns of the flattest parts and then leading into the curved part, you can then transfer to metal and form the edge a bit for the shape. Weld the pieces together and continue to use the original as a form for the new part. It can be done but it a lot of work You can also do fiberglass. Use your original parts as a form to lay up fiberglass to make a mold. Pull the original part off the mold and you have now made your negative or mold. Then lay up fiberglass on the mold and you have made the part you will be using Bob

What water pump are you running. If it the late model one then that is Likly the problem with them not lining up and with them being too close Also the late model water pump may be a reverse rotation pump so you need to know what it is. Bob

What trunk lid do you need? I have a nice fastback lid Bob

I doubt the dynacorn stuff is the same as everybody else. I have seen dynacorn stuff and other brand repo metal next to one another and they do not look anything alike. In fact from the stuff I have seen there is at least 3 different companies and Likly more making the repo metal for mustangs. I base this off what I have seen in the parts and how things are done. Bob

Remember that the shape of the tool is different than the shape of the part. You have shrinkage, metal bend back/ relaxing. Warping from tempature....ect When they repo a part they often find the best used example that they can and engineer a mold or die from there. They can get it close but not exact. Often they short cut to reduce tooling cost. The original tooling can produce the most accurate part to the original. Remember that when a company was making the part for ford and foes stops making it so they make a deal with ford to continue on their own, that company has access to all the quality and inspection standards as well as the original tool geometry from ford. I have heard a couple of cases with the body parts where the company was using the original ford tooling but it was so worn out that it was not making a quality part any more. However they were able to do a correct restoration on the tool or make a whole new one from the ford engineering designs because they and only they have access to those. Everyone else is just copying the part. Some cope better than others. Bob

Ford tooling means that it is being made on the tooling, mold, or die that ford used. In some cases the company that was doing the manufacturing for ford bought the tool from ford when they discontinued the part. In other cases the company has made a deal with ford to use the tooling and pay ford a fee or royalty Bob