Rsanter

Added info. the car shows very well so I would think you will get good offers

Hate to say it but how about eBay? put in on there with the price you want plus a little and set for accept offers. or start bidding low with a reserve of the price you want

ACC has several grades of carpet, from repo of the original to the type used in the modern cars. and the price varies

I have a booster from Tuff Stuff on my 69 this is basically the same booster used on the boss429, just not concourse correct. i got it from summit, but I bought the Crome version. the thing works great, as good as the original. Feel is good and all that. it has been on for 4 years no worth no issues. i want to say I paid $200 give or take for it, the black version will be less. i have also talked to the Tuff Stuff people on the phone and at SEMA and they have always been very nice. their booster takes less room , is easier to work around in that area of the car, and was a direct bolt on

So the top part looks the same as the 64-68 version. The lower bracket is different

Please post a picture of the clamp they are not that complex, odds are they could be fabbed up

What engine? early small blocks and even FE engines has their PVC located there. They used a mesh basket as an oil trap. there is not much oil splashing in the lifter valley. if you have a baffle and some kind of oil trap you will be fine

Get it tested dont you want to know for sure that’s the issue before spending money

Yes the car will run on battery alone. we used to run our race car that way. pill the thing and have it tested, the regulator could have failed and that could be the issue. i agree with the solid state regulator recomendation

I interrupt thenpower to the MSD box with a switch something I see more people doing is using keyfob that trips a seleniod, no switches to see or find. The solenoid can be fully hidden somwont even show on a full resto car.

They are for road coarse and street. clone of the AVIAD pans used in the shelby R models

the issue with the offset in the 8.8 rear end is that the driveline gets very close to the side of the trans tunnel and can make putting a dual exhaust in very tight on the one side

Ritchmond

Here are pictures of a completed pan based in n the T sump kits I am making. just got them back from plating

If they are in good shape, up can reuse them

I should have a couple of them

Let me mention something stupid or simple.... could re radiator be clogged? When you rebuild an engine it can often loosen thing in the water passages but not enough to come out of the block. Then after some run time it will come loose and can clog the radiator. I have seen this happen more than once. whenever I rebuild an engine I always run a gano filter in the top radiator hose for a while and it always ends up with debree in it. if race gas will solve the problem then I would get some and start running that or at least in a blend. Then see how that works if the pistons have a bit of dome to them I would trim the pistons a bit to lower the compression. I have done that several times to fine tune the compression we wanted

Have the machine shop clean it up and measure it. technically if you go from 010 under to 020 under you will need to rebalance

I guess they didn’t have a big enough press to do it the way the factory did

Yes I am talking about mustangs in general. However it is important that when adding inner rockers to a car with torque boxes, you need to properly tie them into those rockers and just welding them to the angled face of them on the inside of the car is not enough. You will need to cut the torque box open and insert the inner rocker into them so it can be welded to,both the front and rear surfaces

I bought mine from a seller we met at SEMA, they were out of LA, good people and have no issue with the unit

For a car that you want to put carpet in, this is how I do it along with adding the front torque boxes. for a race car we just stitch weld in rectangular box steel tubing and you can either use the front torque boxes or you can triangulate the area the torque box would go with steel tubing also stitch weld the unibody seams per the Boss302 chassis mod guide

What an idiot how about all the street rods and hot rods out there with fabed up frames and such they guy is just an ambulance chaser

I put stainless tri-y s on my 69 with a 302 bolt right in no issues i then made my own exhaust system all the way back and made an X pipe for it

I would buy new and then just save the original one