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Rsanter

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Everything posted by Rsanter

  1. There is also a lot of noise because you are using headers verses the cast iron exhaust. The cast iron is very dampening and the tube headers are not. Think about getting header wrap and wrapping the header collectors and the pipes all the way to the mufflers Also, the 2.5'' exhaust is noisier than the 2'' or the 2.25''
  2. If you can get the two halves apart, I would just use clear shelf paper (the plastic stuff) and adhear it on and perhaps install a couple of layers Bob
  3. Thanks for the tip I have a friend in Australia that I will ask him to grab a set for me Do they use the same brake pads as the stock mustangs? Bob
  4. Remove the bleeder and inspect in the hole. There could be debree at the seat or it could be cracked. I really wish someone would,come out with an aluminum direct replacement caliper that bolted right on. Your only other option is going aftermarket. Bob
  5. The A pillars are leaning back a little more on the fastback than on the coupe but I think the lenth (height) of the A pillar is the same Bob
  6. So,if,the glass is perfect....why remove it? Bob
  7. I have done it and it is a pain I have a windshield seal cutter I got from HF years ago that has an L handed blade that you put under the glass and pull it to cut the seal. The trick is that you need to guide it so that it cuts at the metal and not at the glass. But that I mean the blade is thinner than the seal and you keep,it angled so,that the blade skims along the metal verses the glass because if you put pressure on the glass with the tool you can break the glass. Bob
  8. I use silicone dot 5 in two,of my cars and love it. Yes it takes a little,to,get used to for not having a pedal that is very hard but there is not that much difference in feel. I like,it because it won't eat paint. It is my understanding that it dosent handle,heat as well so,do go track racing with it but I do autocross with the one car and it has been fine I bought a bulk order to get a good price so if you need some let me know Bob
  9. So the question is...is this a 428 car or are you just putting a 428 into it? If it's a 428 car there is no way I would cut on the car as that hurts the future value a lot Bob
  10. Get a good used one I believe the cougar ones are the same Bob
  11. Nice car I like the 69 convertibles and have one myself Yes projects can get out of hand sometimes, started an engine rebuild and ended up with an all new engine beginning with a Motorsport block and all Bob
  12. My 69 conv has the stock front disc and the rear discs from a mustang SVO I have a willwood 1" bore MC on a toughstuff booster And a willwood prop valve System works really good Bob
  13. There is a sheet metal support piece that attaches back there and supports the fiberboard. If you are worried about originality you could make one easily and cover it I have an original fiberboard that is damaged but could be a pattern or repaired and covered with vynal Bob
  14. Contact Kevin marti at marti auto works Don't know if he makes those or if he can but if anyone can he would be the one Bob
  15. Ok, I'm thinking of the wrong problem. Duh....too short Do you have the engine in the car? I'm thinking no Don't put the shocks in till you can have more weight on the front of the car. Then you bolt the bottom of the shock in and put the car on the ground and then you can attach the top of the shock. I have my upper arm relocated 2" down and this is what I have to do If you really must do it now you can use an external spring compressor to compress the spring and bolt the shocks in Bob
  16. For high HP applications you are sometimes better getting the rear end out of the lincolin or other full sized cars. It is a much beefier housing. Then install a built center section and axles from the aftermarket. Have the rear housing cut down to the desired width you need espically if you are installing mini tubs and all Bob
  17. There are a lot fewer people that like those cars and even fewer that like them and want one Then of the people that do what one, how many have $16000 to pony up? That's the primary problem You may want to put it in an auction with a reserve or call gas monkey, have Richard come out, give him a couple of beers and see how much money you can squeeze him for Bob
  18. When doing modifications to the suspension I always recommend that you cycle the suspension through its travel without the spring in place. You can have the shock in place and test it Remember that you will want the spring guard on with the travel bumper stop which should contact before shock bottoms out. Also. Check your hood clearance as you could put a couple of washers between the shock top and the shock bracket like they did with the 65 Shelby's Bob
  19. No the inside color will not effect the tempature, but i would install an adhesive product like the sound deader/ thermal barrier to the underside of the roof to help keep some of the radiant heat out Bob
  20. Only the rear most panels needs to be removed, not the whole fold down Bob
  21. If you have any areas that are specifically dirty/greasy you use TSP and a nylon brush to clean and scrub the belts After that you can put them in the washing machine. Get an old pair of jeans and cut the legs off. Put the belt in the leg and use safety pins to pit it in ( through the metal ends) and then put them in the wash with a load of old jeans Bob
  22. I have a pair of originals One is cherry and the other has some damage at the bottom behind the bumper Bob
  23. The earlier C4 for the 302 used the 157 tooth flexplate That's what I have in my 69 302 car with C4 Bob
  24. So what trans do you have? If you have a C4 then there is a specific flex plate that is used for the swap. Most mustang shops and mustang specific trans shops have the plate Bob
  25. What so the engine and trans in there now? What is the ballace on the crate motor? 28.8 or 50oz Diameter, number of teeth, and converter pattern is based on the trans. The ballance weight is based on the engine
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