Rsanter

Stock front disc brakes, late model SVO/Lincoln LSC rear disc brakes stock dist block with an adjustable prop valve Tuff stuff power booster. This is the same booster used on the boss429 cars but not concourse correct. willwood master cylinder, same bore size as stock. I used this one for the looks and for the lack of a residual valve for the rear brakes. all new metal brake lines and hoses yes you can swap the calipers left to right and they bolt on and work. The bleeder valve need some to be horizontal

What I like to do for pulling and engine or removing a intake or head is to drain the radiator an drain then blow compressed air into the heater hose port in the intake. This will blow much of the coolant out of the engine and into the intake for draining. Less coolant in the engine means less of a mess. also for some of us that are getting older or have bad backs, I have gotten to using a cherry picker to lift the heavy intakes and heads off of engines verses using Armstrong bob

Oh, and one of the tricks I have used in the past to see if a booster is good on a non-running car run a hose from a running car connected to the booster you want to test. you could try this with your car and then run from another car and see if there is any difference in feel

I don’t really want to compair mine to yours...but I will describe mine i am using a booster from tuff stuff. It is a small booster but basically the same one used on the boss429 cars. Just not concourse correct. my engine is modified but not as much as yours. i can use my big toe to operate the brakes and if you are not buckled up I can put your nose to the windshield. some things that come to mind, you need to sort out the thoughts.... Are your front calipers on correctly? If you swap the left to right they will fit and they will work. But they will trap a little air in the caliper that will reduce your braking. have you removed the bleeder screw and installed a pressure guage in its place to see what pressures you are getting at each corner? i do not understand the vac readings, are you really getting more vac at WOT? I always thought that’s when your loose or drop vac? a vac resivoir is used to store vacvume, your vac will go up and down. When the vac is up it should store in the can, when it’s down you have it stored in the can to use. Do you have a check valve between the engine and the can? You should have one. Then there is another one at the hose fitting to the booster. is the vac can you installed big enough? Have you seen the size vac can they installed on the Cougars because of all the vac accessories they have on that car? Have you seen the size vac can they use just going to the AC system vac motors? Just reference. some of the newer small diesel cars (VW I think) use an alternator that has a vac pump built onto the back of it, could be an option .

Just to be clear I am talking about cutting and modifying the metal of the seat frame. i am doing this as I already have the upolstry and foam. I like the look and I even like the feel. i don’t like that I sit higher in the car, the positioning does not feel right and restricts my visibility front and back in a way it never did with the old seats bob

Manual trans, manual brake? or manual trans, power brake?

Start weighing the pieces, those light buckets are heavy

I have the same problem with the TMI sport seats I have and I am not happy about it. I really wish they had said something in the spec before I did it. i want to keep the stock appearance as the ones I have look mostly stock but with bolsters. I do not want aftermarket seats. so my plan, I am going to grab another set of seat bottoms and I am going to modify them so they mount lower. The rails that go down from the round tubes (the pieces the tracks attach to) can be cut and shortened and then I will have the bottom upolstry and foam installed on them bob

Yes you can but I would not paint the fins. Paint the top tank and the sides as that is what you will see the most leave the fins alone

Remember that going from 3row to 4row does not add 25% or 33% more cooling. By the time the air gets to that last row it has heated up and you are also putting more restriction tothe airflow. going wide is more efficient that deeper. If you are not using an AC type radiator then think about going that way. if you have an engine that is running hot or have a 3 row and that’s not getting it done then you can go to a 4row

You will have to do the Work leaning over the fender. that can be a PITB.... however it is likly less Work that pulling the engine. you need to degrease and pressure wash the engine and compartment before you start. Working in a grimy engine bay is a pain. if you have wanted to clean up and paint the engine and the bay, if you have other engine leaks, etc then pulling the engine becomes a decent option at that point Bob

For actually had a kit for people that were short and complained about the seat not being high enough. the kit was a set of spacers that went between the seat tracks and the seat as well as longer bolts bob

Yup, and I have the FORD lettered one already so this one will go great next to it

I want it because I collect all the variations of the factory (from FORD) intakes bob

I'm interested as well.

Damn....the guy has a whole fleet of them bob

This...... also to me it it looks like you do not have the window/gasket completely seated. from my experience I have had to ' wiggle' the glass a bit to get it to seat down into its ' happy place' before getting the trim to be able to go on properly bob

Buy a repro copy of the original ford manual. very helpful. I have one for every year car I have

Wow, that was cool did anyone notice that he appeared to have a blazer sitting on top of the sanding cabinet? and here I though I was hot shit thinking I would 3D print a model of a mustang bob

Do not run a non-Cleveland specific thermostat. If you do you cause a coolant short that will flow across the front of the engine block. You will have cooler water temps but the engine itself will be hotter. dont worry so much about coolant temp. If you really want to know things install an oil temp sensor. depending on the oil temp you may want to install an oil cooler to remove engine heat that way. oil is what is used to cool the lower portions of the engine, very important bob

If that is a decent car, it seems like a bargain for a vintage convertable. i don't think I would really add value for the signature but I don't think it hurts value either

If metal has been removed from inside the converter, that trans has to come apart to clean it out. what we are looking at here is the difference between the early and late version of the C4 transmissions. the late ones are more popular for drag racing as they are a bit stronger

If there I should no ridge I would be tempted to mic the cyl bores to really get an idea of any wear there may be. if you want to keep the car all original I would be tempted to pull the engine for a tear down inspection. That would give me the idea if I could just put some rings and bearings in it or if I really need a full rebuild. If you do a full rebuild I would bore the engine as little possible and preserve as much metal as I could. what would even be a step better would be like I did with my 69 conv. i pulled the original numbered engine and put it in a crate. I then rebuilt a different engine, in my case I used new everything. Block, crank,rods,heads, etc i drive the car so if I wear out or break the engine, it was not the original that got lost bob

Send a couple pix and let me know how much

I have a thing for using the vintage FORD over the counter aluminum intake manifolds. i am looking for only the factory ones. If you have one and you may want to sell it please let me know. I have another engine needing one. what I need right now is for a 289-302, however if you have one for a 351 or 390 I may think about that as well just to have one for the next time I need it bob