Rsanter
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Posts posted by Rsanter
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That bracket is a centering spring
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6 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:I dont believe they were painted ,they were black plastic ,i think i have a couple here i can check
This is what I recall. They are just the black plastic.
if yours have been painted you may want to soalkmthem in brake fluid to eat the paint off
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I have the cloth top from robins or Robinson’s and it’s great.
i will not go back to the standard top
color is a personal thing.
only go a white top is you have some kind of white on the inside.
if you do an all tan interior then tan top, black maybe.
if you have tan inside and some black then black or tan will be fine.
you need to look at added details of color like trim, calipers, and such
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As far as I know Speedmaster is made in China and machined in China.
i have heard good and bad on them.
most people that say they are good say they need a fair amount of clean up and prep work.
the people that say they were bad said about everything bad including the box it was in
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My all original car was opposite what you have there
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On 8/5/2023 at 3:35 PM, smh00n said:Well I got a reply back from Patriot who tell me these headers are not designed to fit Dart heads. Summit don't say they will or won't :(
Anyway, Stan at FPA has really stepped up and is building me a set to pick up when I go to the Bristol NASCAR night race next month. It's only a $2,000 cost, what else would I do with the cash.
They bolt on or they don’t.
I would want to know why they won’t work if they bolt on
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7 hours ago, Mike65 said:I am looking at getting the Summit M2008 carb. I am still undecided whether to get the 500 or 600 cfm carb for my 5.0, but I want to use the Trans Dapt 1" phenolic spacer with the rear pcv port also.
Trans Dapt 2584: 1" 4-bbl Carburetor Spacer Ported With PCV - JEGS
The smaller carb will limit your top end performance and perhaps a little bit of off the line.
so how will you be driving the car?
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I used the adapter from OEM on mine
$100 and all I had to do was remove my control valve and thread the adapter on
mine has been there since 2014 with no issues
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I swear I saw one made for mustangs at one time but that’s been a while
may not have sold well enough
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Is this power or manual drag link?
im fairly sure I have a couple good used power steering ones
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The copper gaskets are the best you can get
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They are the same for 65 to 70 and someone told me that they fit 71-73 as well
i swear smeone makes a concourse repo, or,so,I have heard
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18 hours ago, RPM said:Dayum, you do nice work.
Thanks
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I have been wanting a belt grinder, ok I have a belt grinder but I have wanted a specific type of belt grinder.
so I finally broke down and built one.
the vac base was a $40 swap meet find.
all the steel was free, salvaged from other stuff. I can’t allow new or slightly used steel tubing go to scrap if I see it’s usable.
the motor was free.
the paint I already had.
the wheels I bought, was planning to make them but I wanted to move this along.
still need to buy the VFD
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On 4/21/2023 at 11:12 AM, kblagron said:Thanks! Yes, maybe square or rectangular tube in the front and back of the seat rails, and have the seat pedestal fit in between them.
Personally I think you need more.
if it was me I would be looking at that box section that extends from the front frame rail.
i think you could make or buy another section of that for each side. Then you can run some rectangular tubing side to side from that. Weld to that as well as the floor.
then if you add some strap material on top going front to back.
look at the Cox body cop cars, they had an issue with floor pan cracking around the seat attachment points.
ford make an add on kit that was standard on the cop mustangs but the rest of us could buy them.
they looked kind of like frame connectors with wings that went and grabbed the seat attachment points, this is along the lines of what I am thinking.
now if you tie the rectangular tubing to the outer rocker and the rail I recommend then you get a good seat attachment point and you improve the chassis
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The swap to the proper PS brackets is easy
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Leaving the car on the tires will flat spot them over time. If you cannot put the car on stands then get a cheap set of roller tires and swap those on for storage
we had an issue with mice around my step daughters car that was stored next to the garage. I was reading about the Irish spring soap trick. I’m thinking no way but I can try it. After all it cheap.
holy cow, two bars under the hood and another one in the car and never saw another mouse dropping or scratching
stabil in the fuel is good.
i would remove the battery from the car and put it in a marine or plastic box on the ground
i have see where people buy those small HF moving dollies and they work better than the wheel,pan type skates
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Your options are mild to wild.
what are you going to be using the car for?
the mustang Steve brackets are popular, you can also use the rear brakes from a crown Vic on a rear end with small bearing ends
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I’ll be using a GPS speedo in my falcon
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The only real upgrade for that old PS system is replacemt.
lots of folks go with the borgeson, but I’m looking more tward the EPAS (electric power steering.
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I don’t think that is going to be strong enough, the flat metal does not have the dimension to add the strength needed for safety.
so if we take your base idea, and add some material under the car. Think about on the convertable they add that lower pan.
i think you could add the convertable lower pans or you could add box tubing under the seat location
Bob
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I narrow rear ends, so I have documented the mustang rear ends in CAD
sort of stolen engine?
in The Garage
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Just a guess but I’m thinking that the car seller is behind on payments and that the car will “disappear “ or get recovered in its incomplete state