SA69mach

Yes, any fine or fancy grain hardwood would look good

New wheel completed, and this one was made from a 69 Mustang rim blow, so it fits. I made this one same as the first, with laminated oak. After shaping and sanding, I really liked the clean look of full wood, so I did not add the false steel rim around the outside, nor the rim blow switch, and did not paint the rear of the grip black. I like the look of the finished wheel with just the 69 deluxe center pad, and this pad has the aftermarket horn button. It fitted on the column perfectly, the horn works perfectly, and it has improved the steering by 100% The small amount of slop has diminished to nearly nothing. the size of the wheel is an improvement in control and faster in the turns. amazing what an inch difference will make. Some pics of construction and finished product on the car. raw formed hoop . some epoxy filler to fill and strengthen . rough shaping and finger grooves . faired in, and finer sanding. finger groove detail. laminations visible . epoxy faired into spokes/grip. . stained, prior to clearcoat . . clearcoated and assembled with center pad . fitted in car . .

Yes, my apologies, I checked that converter out before. 2200-2500, but rated at 500-700 les for Small Block ford . so that is right about stock stall speed.

FMX is heavy, and that is about the only downside when compared to C4, C6. FMX is very strong, very durable, and does not rob power anywhere near the C6, and still less than the C4. I don't see your FMX a problem, so long as it has had a quality rebuild. As far as transmission coolers, be aware that rubber hoses have no business in the entire array. Only use metal lines and braided lines for flex joints. If your rubber lines break you are guaranteed a blown trans, wherever that happens to occur. Overheating transmissions are due to worn internals, bad seals and low fluid. If you don't have those issues, then probably don't bother with the cooler, unless you are racing or running 6500 revs or above. If you don't know the condition of your transmission, then for peace of mind you could install a trans temp gauge and monitor it for a while. Like 65 bucks. Any trans will wear out, it just wears out a bit faster with high hp loads. OH, and also agree with the stall speed. Don't get sucked into the hype of getting a "high stall" converter unless you are seriously running dragstrips every weekend. High stall is a pig around town. Pick a stall that is under your revs at highway cruising speed at 70 mph, as suggested by RSMach1

Because it runs with no spark And I guess it also sounds like a bad diesel engine

Looks good. Is it stock stall? Are you doing all or part of the rebuild on the transmission? What rebuild/overhaul kit are you going to use?

My 70 coupe stripe set . .

When I first bought my Mach 1 I drove it 600 miles from Penn to Mich. PO was looking worried that I was going to do that, but I went anyway. It dieseled like crazy at every gas stop. 30 seconds one time. It had a bog off idle. Timing light revealed zero degrees advance. I had the car Dyno tuned for distributor and carburetor, and it runs and starts perfectly at 12 degrees BTC, and the off idle bog completely gone. Carb tuned up nicely for 35 hp increase from base, and perfect Air/Fuel ratio to 5400 revs. Because you have both of those issues, and dont have the timing, I suggest you consider that and find out the timing. Timing by ear is near impossbile. Timing by vacuum works, but it works best in conjunction with recommended factory timing settings, and only in small increments outside of those. Please do yourself a favor and get a light, and see what you have right now. My vote is that you will find your engine has very low advance numbers. Good luck.

Good question. I am not sure. Best to ring the vendor on something like that, since you may get good advice, and then again, you may be returning it. A record of enquiry always helps when that happens.

All good suggestions above. The key point in this is that the four way flashers operate correctly. I suspect your turn signal switch, in the steering wheel hub as number one to check and/or replace. Take a look at the bulbs in 4-way mode, and then when they are stuck on with the turn signal. Are they brighter or duller in the turn signal mode? If duller, could be just poor contacts in the switch, not allowing full current. If the same intensity, then it could actually be the flasher can, new or not.

I am running the Wilwood 6R Superlight's (6 piston) with lightweight hubs, but I run DOT5 silicon fluid on that car, and that is probably why they are not as firm as the Baer Big 6 set on the other car. I run DOT4 fluid with the Baer brakes.

I don't think so. I am assuming your instruments do not have a factory oil pressure gauge, just the low pressure warning. Many aftermarket gauges have an inbuilt low pressure warning light built in to the dial, so perhaps that would be a solution, despite the mounting position. The factory sender for your current warning light is not suitable for running an aftermarket gauge, and unlikely to be the same ohm range. Aftermarket gauges work with their specific sender, which should come with the gauge kit. Senders are specific for either 'warning' (on/off function) or for a range of resistance to run a gauge. Not both.

A Coyote transplant into your 69 is major surgery, requires removal of the shock towers, which is not a big deal. It is the bracing and cradle design that you need to give some hard thought, a lot of googling and reading, and some strict engineering design. It has been done plenty of times. doing it right ? well, not every time. Lot of money. like 20K lot of money. A stroker 408 or 427 based on a 351 small block is easier, cheaper, and still gives you a lot of go. However, your car, your dream, your money. I have both Baer and Wilwood brakes on my cars, and the both are great stoppers. Baer probably a slight edge in firmness and feel, but not much difference. Late model Mustang/Ford brakes will be cheaper,. All of those choices will require 17" wheels or bigger, so factor that in to the cost too.

Great job, and very glad you have your car back. One question I would have is for the original insurance adjuster who came out - how do they see the value of the car right now, with repairs and new parts.? Higer or lower? Higher - new paint, new body parts, new engine parts, etc Lower - car has been in a wreck. Please post what happens to the value, if anything. I would encourage the conversion to power brakes, front discs, rear drums. I know Opentracker has a very decent price on their kits , all Kelsey hayes style, and comes with every single thing for the job. Money well spent.

Nice car. Welcome.

Soldering three wires together at once is a PITA, not made easier by doing it in the engine bay. I will give this repair some time to prove itself, but so far, so good. Interesting and perhaps helpful information - I did notice when the car would 'die' while driving is slightly erratic tacho needle. It would drop to dead bottom, then sort of spike. That points me to coil. In this case it was not completely right , it was the wire from coil to distributor, but, it was right in the fact it was electrical, not carburetor. The tacho did not just come back to life and climb to the correct revs, it would spike and then settle. Perhaps that is an indicator of spiking signal along the wire as the connection is re-established. Also, there was no indication of any heat or burning at the crimp. Just that white-greenish powdery crap on the bare wires, and the aluminum blade of the crimp. It was just a weak connection that was killing the mighty Bronco with its mighty Cleveland. lol. It did its best to live. At least it did not leave me stranded.

. This little thing has caused me a lot of grief in the last two weeks. My Bronco with 351 Cleveland was developing an annoying habit of cutting out dead at idle, when warm. Would start right up again, but then die while driving, intermittently, but mostly at idle in gear (C6 trans) Often while driving it would come back to life within a second or two. I checked and adjusted idle mixture, checked for vacuum leaks at intake and carb. Checked the coil, replaced the ignition module, checked resistance on all the plug wires. Checked and cleaned the distributor. While cleaning all the connections for the coil and distributor, I noticed the two wire tachometer plug in the wiring harness had one crimp connector splicing into the negative wire of the coil (to distributor) I opened it up and saw two things wrong. First the wires had corroded slightly, since these splice clips are not waterproof. That was most likely the cause of the problem, an intermittent loss of signal to the distributor. However, IF the genius who spliced in the tacho feed had left the wire intact from the negative post direct to the distributor, this problem would not have occurred. They had actually cut the main wire, and made THAT WIRE the splice, and run a single wire directly from the negative post to the tacho feed. This might seem like easy peasy common sense, but it can cause you problems if it is done "reversed" They should have spliced a short wire into the INTACT and UNCUT distributor feed wire. If the join corrodes, you just lose your tacho feed, NOT your engine..... So, I soldered them all, threw away the splice, and have to be happy I found the fault before buying a whole new ignition system. I hope this might help someone in the future. The lesson for me was that if you see wiring that is not factory loom, then investigate with a suspicious attitude. It is a problem waiting to happen, and was possibly done by a fool These splice crimps have no business in an engine bay.

I saw some neat screws designed as a repair for missing trim studs. They are simply a flat headed phillips screw with the threads stopped short on the shaft. You drill a pilot hole, screw in the screw until it stops on the shoulders, and you have a pretty good stud for your trim clip. Probably been around for years, but they might help anyone doing a window or window or trim repair/replacement. Pretty simple thing, and a real time saver if you don't have a stud welder, and the exact right size studs. http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-windshield-moulding-repair-stud.html This is not the first seller I have seen, but I cant seem to find that one. They offered clips and screws in kits. Probably ebay now I think about it. Maybe our supporting sponsors sell them too, I will wait and see. ​edit - yep, they are all over ebay under "windscreen trim clip". I never claimed a discovery, just mentioned they will be useful........lol

Your rear wheel hp is under 450, and the truetrac will handle that with ridiculous ease. Smooth and maintenance free. Very strong. If you are not racing, then they are, by most standards, the perfect LSD for a streeter with solid hp and live axle rear. You wont be unhappy with the package I spotted above - 3.50, 31 spline, forged axles, truetrac. Great 9 inch combination for any 3 speed automatic Mustang. It is a lot of work and $$$'s and I would not just throw suggestions from my 'wish list' for you to go do. I have two cars with trutrac Ford 9 inch rears, 31 spline, forged axles. The 3 speed auto has 3.50 and the 5 speed has 3.73 gears. My 500 rwhp car has the Detroit Locker. 4.30 gears, 6 speed T56 Magnum, lots of go fast bits. Brutal to drive on the street, but absolutely bulletproof track car for nearly 10 years. My Mach 1 has a 3.00 peg leg 9 inch rear, but this season it will be getting,.... drum roll,....3.50, truetrac 31 spline forged Dutchman axles. In my view it is a proven combination for mid/high hp street car. They can take a beating. they run hard light to light. They are acceptable for highway cruising. You don't give up much with that set up. Maybe long long hauls, that gear would be better at 3.25, but unless you are doing interstate trips 10 times a year, forget it.

The lower knob - the time setting knob- has a threaded rod holding the knob on. Some needle nose pliers with a soft jaw covering onto the shaft, and then unscrew the knob. Undo the three(?) small screws holding the 'cup' to the round lens assembly. At that point the clock housing and movement will pull clear from the housing IIRC.

Is your 525 hp at flywheel or rear wheels?

A true-trac LSD would be my choice for your car and for your driving needs. 3.50 gear set, forged 31 spline axles, new bearings and seals. That is a good package that should last and give you a quiet and solid drive. If you are really punching the car a lot, 525 hp is going to push any LSD. Any true locker is stronger than an LSD, but comes with noise and brutal characteristics, and will chew up your tires and scare your passengers. lol

Amendment - Just loosen the lower control arms, NOT the top. The UCA bushing nuts are a complex arrangement and you could easily make new problems. This is more common than you would think. The springs are the only item that determines ride height - or should be. But if you have the suspension hanging way down during the spring install AND you have torqued up the rubber bushings, they will bind in that position, sometimes destroying the rubber bushings as the suspension moves up as the car lowers down. This actually goes for the rear springs as well, since you mentioned that the rear end is out too. Just snug them loosely, all four corners of the car, and lower it to the ground, then torque them all after bouncing the springs and letting it settle. Greasing the bushings and shafts with silicon grease will help too,, and worth the cost of such a good grease. You don't need much.

Good suggestions so far. 1. drill small pilot hole and use an easy-out 2. Drill larger hole and re-tap Another would be to weld on a nut to the stud, and then try to un-bolt the stud Depends on your particular skills, and what sets of tools you have. I have tried all those three above, sometimes works , sometimes not. When nothing else works, it is time to settle in with a dremel and a good carbide bit, and do it the slow old fashioned way - carefully drill/grind/ream out the entire center of the bolt/stud until it is thin and weak enough to collapse and yank out, like a hollowed out shell. This can take an hour, maybe more. I had to do this once when I busted a tap in the block of a big block. The tap was bust off 1/8 " below the deck...... Man, that was a crappy day.... your stud is going to be softer than a tap.......this is the process of last resort.

Neat! Very cool car, and a great color scheme. Stealthy..... Don't forget the Mach1! You got two rare Muscle cars now.......enjoy