larryc94

I used part # TMC-90F-51 which was the correct application for my car.  The kit is made for fold down or non fold down.  You have to trim to fit for which you have.
With left over pieces was able to fill over the wheel houses using spray glue
The trunk looks so much better. finished off

The reason the stocks bulbs look green is the light they emit is yellow, yellow+blue diffusers=green!
 
Larry

I am not sure what you are after, however, if you want Mach 1 wood grain dash and glove box pieces, I have a few. I also have a new wood grain radio bezel and the stainless door trim for the deluxe interiors and many other parts. I am also a scott drake dealer and might be able to save you some money on some parts if you want.
 
 

I used a alarm hood pin switch.  Drilled a hole on the emergency brake bracket.  Tapped into the wire going to the pressure differential sw.  The foot pedal hits the plunger on the sw breaking the ground and turning off the brake warning light when the emergency brake is off.

Oh Btw just a little note for anyone running leaf springs and Cal tracs that may need to do some angle adjustment...do yourself a favor and get some U-Bolts that are about 1" longer than stock...it will allow you to loosten the rear end off enough one side at a time so as to slip your angle wedges in between the rear and spring plates.
Also use your cal trac bars to help line up the centering bolt into the axle flange spring plate hole since they usually move out of alignment when you loosen them.

They have screws for this exact problem.  The head is the correct size the threaded portion is larger
 
 
 
https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-scuff-plate-repair-screws-for-oversized/100127?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Ddoor%2Bscuff%2Bplate%26top_parent%3D1%26year%3D1970&year=1970

They have screws for this exact problem.  The head is the correct size the threaded portion is larger
 
 
 
https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-scuff-plate-repair-screws-for-oversized/100127?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Ddoor%2Bscuff%2Bplate%26top_parent%3D1%26year%3D1970&year=1970

Your welcome,  There is a story their.  The guy Sanco passed away and his friend took over the business.  There was a gap where there was no contact or parts being sold.  The friend seems to be a good guy and back in business.

The repair tabs can be purchased at http://sancospecialties.com/ssproducts.html

the tabs I'm referring to are the locating tabs of the rear end yoke that the u-joint caps fit into

Have been down the road of "leave well enough alone" and question myself why I didn't

It's thicker than you think, used some teflon tape and taper of npt seals fine.  Never seen any stains or leaks in 2 years.
The problem is you can't have anything protrude it won't fit the opening.  You could build a bead of weld to drill and tap.  You mite have file the rear panel opening

It's a 351c with 4v CC heads, rpm airgap manifold, Fitech EFI, Crane 222/234 duration, .534/.539 lift, roller rockers and Sanderson shorty headers.  I'm thinkin 350 hp at least.  Yea will light up tires pretty easy.
The SD  mid-eye rear springs are 4.5's, the half leaf in on top and in front to prevent wheel hop, Opentraker sells the exact SD spring.  Also the 3.70 rear is a trac-lok and frame connectors
Probably could have got reverse eye and wouldn't needed the 1" blocks.  I felt if I got the reverse eye and was too low I'd SOL.  With the mid-eye I could add or remove blocks to get it where I wanted.  Have  KYB Gr2,s all around.  I can't stress enough how the front handles and takes bad washboard roads

They are 15x7 and 4.25 BS.   I have a bit of unusual set up, the front springs are "620's" for a 65-66 which are 1" lower than a 67-70 spring.  So 1" shorter  because 65-66+ 1" shorter because 620's are 1" lower+2" lower.  Guy's usually end up cutting the 67-70 spring because it's to high, with setup no need to cut springs and springs works as designed.  Use 3/4 poly spacer on top spring to tower.  If I used 1/4"poly spacer the springs became loose when jacked up or put on a lift.  The 3/4" keeps spring in place.
 
  Springs are not cut and have roller perches, it sit's as low as it can with out effecting ride or bottoming out.  It rides really well can take speed bumps at like 5-10 mph.  fenders not rolled and and no hint of rubbing.  The tires front and rear are tucked
 
Have the Shelby drop with  -0.75* camber and  3.2* caster
 
Rear have SD 4.5 mid eye with 1" blocks.  The back only has  about 3" clearance between rear and bumper.  The back will hit the stop on good dip but not touching 1/4 or wheelhouse

They are 15x7 and 4.25 BS.   I have a bit of unusual set up, the front springs are "620's" for a 65-66 which are 1" lower than a 67-70 spring.  So 1" shorter  because 65-66+ 1" shorter because 620's are 1" lower+2" lower.  Guy's usually end up cutting the 67-70 spring because it's to high, with setup no need to cut springs and springs works as designed.  Use 3/4 poly spacer on top spring to tower.  If I used 1/4"poly spacer the springs became loose when jacked up or put on a lift.  The 3/4" keeps spring in place.
 
  Springs are not cut and have roller perches, it sit's as low as it can with out effecting ride or bottoming out.  It rides really well can take speed bumps at like 5-10 mph.  fenders not rolled and and no hint of rubbing.  The tires front and rear are tucked
 
Have the Shelby drop with  -0.75* camber and  3.2* caster
 
Rear have SD 4.5 mid eye with 1" blocks.  The back only has  about 3" clearance between rear and bumper.  The back will hit the stop on good dip but not touching 1/4 or wheelhouse

The airgap comes with a  notch in the divider and I think the 351w sits taller than a 351c.  The shaker fits but I would like it 1/2" lower, I could rework the base

They are 15x7 and 4.25 BS.   I have a bit of unusual set up, the front springs are "620's" for a 65-66 which are 1" lower than a 67-70 spring.  So 1" shorter  because 65-66+ 1" shorter because 620's are 1" lower+2" lower.  Guy's usually end up cutting the 67-70 spring because it's to high, with setup no need to cut springs and springs works as designed.  Use 3/4 poly spacer on top spring to tower.  If I used 1/4"poly spacer the springs became loose when jacked up or put on a lift.  The 3/4" keeps spring in place.
 
  Springs are not cut and have roller perches, it sit's as low as it can with out effecting ride or bottoming out.  It rides really well can take speed bumps at like 5-10 mph.  fenders not rolled and and no hint of rubbing.  The tires front and rear are tucked
 
Have the Shelby drop with  -0.75* camber and  3.2* caster
 
Rear have SD 4.5 mid eye with 1" blocks.  The back only has  about 3" clearance between rear and bumper.  The back will hit the stop on good dip but not touching 1/4 or wheelhouse

Yes and one between the banjo bolt and the flexible brake line "block"

Marker lights? Turn signal/park lights...trying to make sense of this the markers use a 194 bulb with 2 wires that polarity wouldn't matter (those bulbs don't have a dedicated ground or hot)

Moog CK-8123 at Rock auto $38 each, same one's Scott Drake sells as premium for $90 each

The reason he needs a roller arm as opposed to a bushing is because of his non standard wheel package with wrong, back space and offset.  To get them to work he added 2" spacers. That  lets the wheel put a lot more stress on suspension  components (especially the idler arm)  causing it to toe out under driving 

Something doesn't make sense,  your before spec's don't relate to your tire wear. Those before spec's are in spec for '69 back in '69 for bias ply tires and wouldn't result in the tire wear you have. Even the  toe is not really off except the steering wheel is off center.
The spec's for radial tires are much different as recommended as stated by prior posters in this thread.  If he aligned it to the modern radial tire alignment of -0.5* camber you wouldn't need shims.  You have virtually no caster, on a '69 or '70 shorten those strut bar's and get a min 2* of caster if not more.
 
The guy that did your alignment did a great job if you had bias ply  tires and and we were back in 1969.  I use custom spec's or just adjust to the number's I want not paying attention to if it's red or green.  BTW that Hunter machine he used is a great machine and extremely accurate $40-50K with the rack
 
 There's something else  wrong.  I suspect your idler arm is flexing allowing toe out, or the offset of those wheels are positive and causing a problem.  Not sure what type of wheel that is.  Would be good to know the offset, width and backspace and if they require spacers 
 
Not trying to "rain on your parade" but telling you like it is. I'm speaking from 47 yrs as a automotive professional and have done 100's of alignments 
 
Larry
 
 

Something doesn't make sense,  your before spec's don't relate to your tire wear. Those before spec's are in spec for '69 back in '69 for bias ply tires and wouldn't result in the tire wear you have. Even the  toe is not really off except the steering wheel is off center.
The spec's for radial tires are much different as recommended as stated by prior posters in this thread.  If he aligned it to the modern radial tire alignment of -0.5* camber you wouldn't need shims.  You have virtually no caster, on a '69 or '70 shorten those strut bar's and get a min 2* of caster if not more.
 
The guy that did your alignment did a great job if you had bias ply  tires and and we were back in 1969.  I use custom spec's or just adjust to the number's I want not paying attention to if it's red or green.  BTW that Hunter machine he used is a great machine and extremely accurate $40-50K with the rack
 
 There's something else  wrong.  I suspect your idler arm is flexing allowing toe out, or the offset of those wheels are positive and causing a problem.  Not sure what type of wheel that is.  Would be good to know the offset, width and backspace and if they require spacers 
 
Not trying to "rain on your parade" but telling you like it is. I'm speaking from 47 yrs as a automotive professional and have done 100's of alignments 
 
Larry
 
 

Need a better pix of the rivets on the dash vin

From the pix the shaft is not collapsed because the rub mark on the shaft line's up with the end.  It shows the column was not centered.  The firewall plate is adjustable to center the column
 
Your problem is the mounting for the column is slotted a the upper clamp  and there is a clamp at the fire wall plate.  Loosen  the column upper bolts and fire wall plate and slide the column down.
 
If the inner collapsible shaft slides the pins are broken and a future source of play and or knocking/rattle.
 
Larry