larryc94

I could see a problem if you ran stock alignment spec's of +1.0* or even "0*" camber it may hit the lip of the fender. With my -0.8* I can fit my hand up to my knuckles (my half Polach big hands) Larry

The thing I can think of maybe thery were using an 15x8 wheel and the other is I have -0.8* camber/ 3.2* caster in the front. And I guess I'm 2" lower? Just thought of not having Shelby drop cause + camber gain on compression, maybe that causes rub? You can be safe and go with the 225/60-15 which is 25.6" tall. I had the 215/70-14 which are 25.9" tall and didn't want to go shorter so thats how I went with 235/60-15 which is 26.1" tall BTW the Boss cars had F60-15's which translates to the 235/60-15 Larry

Is this for your 69? Why would you have a tire rub? Larry

I have no rubbing and fenders are not rolled and your axle or center of wheel to fender lip is 1" higher. CJ's did offer this combo but stated is was not for 65-66 for the front, for those they recommend 15x6 wheel Larry

Post 4 are the pix's I have right now, larger one is 14" wheels and smaller 15" wheels. I have posted the spec's but here they are again 15x7 4.25 BS, 235/60-15 all around. The difference was 14"=25.9" height and the 15"=26.1" height. My speedo was dead nuts on @ 60 mph against GPS now 1 mph off with new 15" tires For the stance if you measure from center of wheel to fender lip 12 3/4" front and rear, about 3/4" of tire tucked front and back. Shelby 1" drop roller perches, I can't believe how lucky I was with this odd combo of using a 65-66 620 (560 lb) 1" lowering spring on a 67-70. Every one cuts coils and then say's the 620's give a harsh ride, my car rides better than it ever has with this combo. I can take speed bumps at 5-10 mph no problem, the back doesn't take them as well. The 65-66 spring is identical to the 67-70 except there 1" shorter, so 1" for 65-66 spring plus 1" because it's 1" lower than the stock 65-66 spring = 2" total and not having to cut springs. You have to use 3/4" poly spacers on the top, with 1/4" poly spacer the spring gets loose when jack it up. The 3/4" keeps tension on the spring so stay put when you lift it The stance is not to low to scrape or have bump steer Larry Here is a pix of the new 15" wheels

235/60-15 all four and also the 65-66 620 front spring are 1" lowering on a 65-66 and end to be 2" on a 67-70 and therefore no need to cut coils Larry

Mine are 4.25 BS, have no rubing, no fender rolling. Have Shelby drop with Grabba-trac 620's for a 65-66 un-cut which are rated at 560 lb with 3/4 poly spacer roller perches. Using GYB GR2. The rear I have Scott Drake 4.5 mid eyes with 1" blocks Front suspension just sucks up washboard roads like nothing, same with speed bumps can hit them at 10mph suspension absorbs it. The rear is harsher over the speed bumps Larry

BTW at a show seen the aluminum Magnum's and just don't look right. Do agree for 69 that the chrome style wheel looks good

Did the same thing, had 14" Magnum's and replaced with 15'x7 Magnum's with 235/60-15. IMHO there's no other wheel for a classic, I'm not into the wagon wheel rubber band look. FYI on the debate who makes the best Magnum 500 Coker tire bought Vintage Wheel and Wheel Vintique and combined manufacture. So if you buy either one or Coker wheels there all the same. I got a tire wheel package from CJ's happy with wheels, tires and balance. requested no weights on outside and they did a good job and surprised they used no tape weight in the middle. When looked at first I said no way are these balanced, I always balanced my wheel myself at work and always had to do tape weight behind the spokes. These new wheels tested to 90 mph and very smooth, I'm happy! They offered me" haven't seen you in a while" 5% discount which was $75 on something that's just about price fixed and found on my own BFG has a $50 gift card for 4 tires from an authorized dealer which CJ's is First pix 14" and second 15" suttle difference, can't seem to get the both photo's showing the same prospective. Also a trivia fact the the center section on the 14" & 15" that's welded in is exactly the same, the difference is in the rim section is wider

69 and 70 are different as far as the shape or the width. Not sure, I have a 69 wheel and ordered a 70 sw and there was no way it fit in the groove. I had to sell the 70 and ordered a 69 from Rim blow Buddies. It's ok they give you old fashion flat tooth picks to place under the switch to make it more sensitive. The length for a 69 was good It has different sensitivities around the sw. I thought they stated in time will get better. You know we are between a rock and hard place with these. Spend a lot $ for a NOS that's 40+ years old, it has to had dried out over the years and can't be same as when new. The other problem I ran across was the width of the grove. I restored my wheel that was something I had to work to get it consistent all around. My wheel was basically in good shape with just 2 slight cracks just on the back black portion. And also I have a 69 wheel on a 70, that's the way I got it 27 yrs ago and figured out it was too costly to get the correct stuff and 69 was in good shape. Plus I like the 69 wheel better than the 70 Larry

I'd try Perogie.com. Call them you would be better off 609-448-1684

Mine dimmed until I changed the radio. I guess the bulb in the new radio is a lower wattage. I also left the stock 1856 in the heater control I think if you measured the resistance of a 194 bulb and put a resistor of that value in the circuit they will dim, or add another 194 bulb in the circuit. I think you need at least 2 194 bulbs to load the circuit or a resistor that equaled 2 bulbs. Larry

The reason the stocks bulbs look green is the light they emit is yellow, yellow+blue diffusers=green! Larry

That picture of the drivers side has something showing from the original front upper control arm hole wrapping around the front of the tower. Can't tell if it's a scratch or crack, but that an area where they will crack

What I'm saying is the 65-66 spring is identical to to 67-70 spring except the free height is 1' shorter. Same diameter, same 560 lb rated spring. I seen posts where guys cut the 620's and say the ride stiff and feel every bump in the road. Mine is very smooth and the suspension just absorbs the bumps. The other thing is it's low but not low enough to cause problems, no bump steer, not bottoming out etc. Forgot have the Shelby drop and think the roller perches contribute to the good ride by allowing the springs and shocks work without bind. The other thing I had when first installed the 65-66 spring with 1/4 poly spacer was the spring would get loose jacking the car up, I couldn't deal with that every time I put it on the lift was to make sure the springs were seated (this ain't no Honda). Also it was lower, maybe too low. But with a 3/4 poly spacer it's just right, spring has tension on the lift and doesn't move Larry

I can't believe that I haven't run across some using the combo I have on a '67-'70. I have 620 springs for a '65-'66 (happen to be Graba-trac's, don't think that matters) they are 1" lower than the '67-'70 with 3/4" poly spacers. The spring are 1" lower than the '67-'70 620's, so the 620's are 1" lower and by going with the '65-'66 620 it is an addition 1' for a total of 2'. I have read that most everyone cuts the 620's to get the stance they are locking for.. So why not start out with a spring that was designed to be lower. The springs are uncut, that's a thing that i don't believe in...yea I know every one cut's them but you alter the rate of the spring. I have roller perches with an otherwise stock front end. New bushings etc, Ford export brace, monte bar and I know hold the flames KYB Gr2's. But I can take speed bumps pretty good, maybe 10 mph and the front end just sucks them up, can't say that for rear but. The rear I have Scott Drake 4 1/2 mid eye's with 1" blocks. I was afraid to go to reverse eye's for fear of being too low and not being able to correct it except for changing springs. If it get's too low I can always pull the blocks. I do have the front of the spring pack clamped a la the '60 MOPAR thing to eliminate wheel hop I was getting. They were good new but after I while I think the clamp opened up and let the spring start to move and create the wrap-wheel hop. I think the clamp stiffens up the rear spring but have no wheel hop. This combo yields a great ride on our chopped up Northeast roads. When I did it I didn't know how it was going to turn out, well too my surprise it works well. I guess every now and again we luck out.

620's is the wire size they are 560 lb Larry

If the Cam gear is original it has nylon teeth, was common for them to break and jump time. Larry

Timing chain jumped? How old is it? Larry

I have the Ford Motorsport valve covers and there no clearance problem with the stock booster

The width is different 4 1/4 for auto and 3 1/2 for stick. Plus the hole is not centered it is bias towards the left

I see they don't recommend the Annular boosters. Well I went with G. Pence's recommendation on the Summit 750vs with the annular boosters and had great off idle response and low end. The only reason I changed to EFI was for hot restarts, cold drivability and computer controlled timing Larry

The last combo, also on a C you want at least 36* total I realize you had good people pick your cam and on paper it should work well for blasting away from light. Your stall is 2600 rpm and you say it start flying at 2000 rpm. But the problem is you can't drive like that all the time. You need to pull away from a light some what normally and build power off idle and not wait to hit 2000 rpm build power you feel. Some times there is a communication break down of what your asking for and you expectations. These are street driven cars that are going to operate majority of the time idle to 3000-4000 rpm I'm on my second cam, the first one had too much overlap. You could here the reversion when the air cleaner was off and you rev'd the engine. It was lazy down low, poor throttle response ect . C cams need less overlap and at least 114 LSA. My sec cam has less overlap wider LSA but more duration and greater lift and is so much more responsive than my first I think also it's harder dealing with an auto, it's less forgiving. A stick I let the clutch out and at a blink of an eye I hit 3k. 2.95 1st 3.70 rear 25.8 tires Larry

The last combo, also on a C you want at least 36* total I realize you had good people pick your cam and on paper it should work well for blasting away from light. Your stall is 2600 rpm and you say it start flying at 2000 rpm. But the problem is you can't drive like that all the time. You need to pull away from a light some what normally and build power off idle and not wait to hit 2000 rpm build power you feel. Some times there is a communication break down of what your asking for and you expectations. These are street driven cars that are going to operate majority of the time idle to 3000-4000 rpm I'm on my second cam, the first one had too much overlap. You could here the reversion when the air cleaner was off and you rev'd the engine. It was lazy down low, poor throttle response ect . C cams need less overlap and at least 114 LSA. My sec cam has less overlap wider LSA but more duration and greater lift and is some much more responsive than my first I think also it's harder dealing with an auto, it's less forgiving. A stick I let the clutch out and at a blink of an eye I hit 3k. 2.95 1st 3.70 rear 25.8 tires Larry