larryc94

Just heat with heat gun and mirror come's off without breaking

If you use that tool you need to use it on both sides. If only one side the sway bar will load the lower arm and make it difficult to remove the bolt. Just let both wheels hang and remove the bolt

Your not wanting to jack on it, it will put stress on it. Just let the both wheel's hang and the bolt will slip out. It will require a new alignment

I stand corrected

Yea not showing up, but I think the rivets of original poster are regular pop rivets and not ones Ford used. I'd vote for vin tag changed and aprons restamped. I might be wrong but I thought the drivers side vin was stamped on the apron and not the shock tower

Pic?????

Waterpumps are different, 351C only had dr side inlet

Need a better pix of the rivets on the dash vin

Rock auto the Moogs were $34 each https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?mfr=MOOG&partnum=ck8123 Larry

No, the "620" springs are a stiffer than stock. They're called "620" because the wire size of the spring is 0.620", they are rated at 560 lb. They also lower 1" and by using the 65-66 spring which is 1" shorter than the 67-70 spring you get 2" lower stance. They're other springs for a 65-66, GT and I guess standard. I can only answer for the springs I used and are very happy with the outcome. I took a gamble with this setup and usually stuff like this doesn't work out. The only problem I had was originally used a 1/4" poly spacer and the spring would become loose when on a lift or jacked with the wheel hanging. That I couldn't put up with every time you lift it you have to make sure the spring is seated (this no ricer). By switching to a 3/4" poly spacer it was just right that spring stayed put Larry

That's what I have on a '70. using 65-66 "620" springs which are 560 lb uncut, 3/4' poly spacer with roller perches Like the stance and it rides great, can take speed bumps at like 10 mph no problem. I wish the rear would absorb as good as the front Soaks up wash board roads Don't understand why this combo is not more popular, I discovered it in a Mustang plus catalog a couple of years ago. Lot of people say "620" springs are harsh, they usually cut coils to get the right stance. They ride great if you don't cut them Larry

WCCC is a great source for parts, some are the same for our Mustangs. Great for used parts too, I needed the baffle for side of my radiator. Also he's the only selling replacement mirror glass for drivers side Sport mirror. and his videos are great! Larry

http://www.thexton.com/wire-insertion-tool-p-44.html can be gotten for less https://www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE436-Wire-Insertion-tool/dp/B000P9IGCA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487385089&sr=1-1&keywords=thexton+436 The handle is hollow, I have the older red handle one. Push the tool through the grommet, push the wire through the handle, then remove tool, done Larry

Mustang Steve cable kit does not fit 69-70 due to cowl floor difference http://www.mustangsteve.com/cable.html

I think the ring he is referring to is the ring or contact plate on the back of the wheel that the contacts ride on. I would disconnect the battery and use an Ohm meter to confirm continuity at the 2 screws that the rimblow sw wires attach while activating the rimblow. Larry

From the pix the shaft is not collapsed because the rub mark on the shaft line's up with the end. It shows the column was not centered. The firewall plate is adjustable to center the column Your problem is the mounting for the column is slotted a the upper clamp and there is a clamp at the fire wall plate. Loosen the column upper bolts and fire wall plate and slide the column down. If the inner collapsible shaft slides the pins are broken and a future source of play and or knocking/rattle. Larry

When you use a patch like the alum can use a paper punch to make holes so the epoxy flows through for added "bite" Sometimes use flat or angle alum stock and drill holes for epoxy to flow through Larry

If it quiets down when braking it either the caliper mounting or the pads moving. Brake hardware worn out or missing Larry

I did the Equinox-Vue conversion, I like it, it's much tighter than the factory P/S. Underhood and steering linkage is cleaner looking and no leaks. The return is not bad, one thing that helps is to use a stock idler with the rubber bushings. You have to install the OEM rubber bushing idler with the wheels straight ahead, as you go left or right the bushing twists and wants to go back to center. Ford designed it that way and if you use a roller arm you change the way Ford designed it. Larry

There is, may not look like but does fit, I have a '70. Also have clutch to deal with, one piece has to be omitted, the brace from lower right booster stud to bottom of dash that has 3/8th sheet metal screw in the bottom of dash. Motor clocked at 4:00. Had factory P/S, gone are the leaks and the slop of the control valve. Have assist at idle and in fact have assist with key on engine off

I used Grabber-trac springs in my car and what I did to get poly spacer to fit upper shock tower was to heat them up with a heat gun. Originally used the 1/4" ones and switched to 3/4" ones and both needed heat to fit Removed them a couple months later to do other work and where fine and fit without any extra work. Larry

I would be careful if it's not installed and on body stand. There more likely to crack when not supported Larry

I'm going to guess they dipped it in a solution that dissolved that piece. It's pot metal and will not come out unless you open the tabs to separate the latch That latch is ruined. Only way to fix it is find another latch to harvest that part and bend the tabs back to install. I just installed a Scott Drake electric remote release kit. For 2 reasons, my fire extinguisher is in the trunk and don't have to worry about keys scratching the gas cap, works great Larry

Mine has the rolled edges and no grommets, no a/c Larry

Yes specifically the pins and clips that hold the outboard pad, missing them