larryc94

To the left of the column uses 2 screws with large flat washers

It takes two people, take an old screw driver and grind the end round, WD40 or similar lube (even soap). While you insert have other person try to grab with pliers the outside to pull through. I actually installed 2 pads (don't ask) one from cj's and one from NPD. Although the pads where similar the npd fasen might have been better or I became experience with those pins the second time. I think I may have used some of the original which where best

'70 the hood turn signal harness is already there, the plugs to connect it are by the master cly in the headlight harness

A 15*-20* drop through the radiator is not going to do the job. Even though some stated it's good it not performing

So it sounds like the park wire was lighting the turn filament (which is brighter) and the signal wire was lighting the park filament (which not as bright) and therefore when if the signal is flashing it won't be seen because the brighter filament is being lit by the park circuit. Don't know if there wired different, 69 and 70 sig/park lights are different part #'s

The harness side for sig/park light in the valance has what Midlife describes as two same color wires on the same pin and a single wire on the other

The ones on the fender or the ones in the valance?

Marker lights? Turn signal/park lights...trying to make sense of this the markers use a 194 bulb with 2 wires that polarity wouldn't matter (those bulbs don't have a dedicated ground or hot)

They actually ground through the bumper, run a jumper wire to the body of the light and see what happens. Do the rears flash? How about the 4 ways How did problem appear? out of blue, after something else done? Larry

So does it light up and just no blink? Both Drivers and pass act the same?

If the front signal/park light plug is disconnected the marker light goes out, only on a '70. So I would say yes if the signal filament is burned the marker goes out. There only 2 wires in the signal/park lamp plug, one for each and ground through the mounting

That wiring diagram looks like it is for a 69. The 70 is different, the side markers don't have a ground to the body instead they are connected to the corresponding signal wire for that corner of the car. When the park-headlight are on the marker grounds through the signal filament. When the signal is on the pulse interrupts the ground so the side marker flashes . The signal and marker alternate. When park-headlights are off the and signal is on the side marker flashes at the same time the signal lamp does and grounds through the park filaments Larry

Yes, take it off and clean any paint off

Still no, the ones in valance opening work no matter what lights are on. The side markers also flash no matter what lights are on or off. Check the ground on the passengers side radiator support (front)

You have to measure the master cylinder piston depth where the push rod sits to the flange where master bolts up then add about 0.001-0.002. I have a tool to take the measurement, one end fits in master and push to bottom out and other end rests against booster push rod and I look for a "crack of daylight" between push rod Larry

Moog CK-8123 at Rock auto $38 each, same one's Scott Drake sells as premium for $90 each

The reason he needs a roller arm as opposed to a bushing is because of his non standard wheel package with wrong, back space and offset. To get them to work he added 2" spacers. That lets the wheel put a lot more stress on suspension components (especially the idler arm) causing it to toe out under driving

With those 2" spacers and those wheels, the point where the load of the vehicle is transmitted is more towards the outside of the wheel. The stock wheel is closer to the center. I think what it does is have more leverage by being further towards the outside. You still haven't told us what type of idler arm you have but your setup like all front ends as you go forward it wants to toe out. With the increase in leverage of you setup may require more toe in. I'd start with a 1/4" and watch the tires like a hawk. I think your going to have to replace the tires to see.

Trying to figure your offset with those 2" (50mm) spacers, looks like the spacer negates the 45mm offset of the wheel so you have like 5 mm negative offset instead of the stock of 25 mm positive

His camber before was +0.3 and +0.5 and is dead on +1 both sides after adjusting to the original '69 spec as the tech pulled up in the machines data base Larry

Well in the previous links form Daze and open tracker have the new spec's. Here what I use which pretty much the same camber -0.5*-0.7*, caster 2.0*-3.0*. Don't like to to go crazy with caster and stock lower arms by putting the lower control arm in a bind prematurely ruining the bushing and an 1/8" of toe. What concerns me is the offset of those wheels which seems to be 45mm and the stock wheel is about 25mm, almost an inch difference. You didn't state what idler arm you have, from the pictures it looks like a stock bushing type? Would be curious if your car was driven over a tire scuff gauge, it measures toe while moving. Some shops have it as a selling tool to show your alignment is off. What I like is it gives you an idea what toe is moving. It could be fine sitting still but toe out while driving. With your wheels toe may have to set with more toe, maybe a 1/4" Larry

Something doesn't make sense, your before spec's don't relate to your tire wear. Those before spec's are in spec for '69 back in '69 for bias ply tires and wouldn't result in the tire wear you have. Even the toe is not really off except the steering wheel is off center. The spec's for radial tires are much different as recommended as stated by prior posters in this thread. If he aligned it to the modern radial tire alignment of -0.5* camber you wouldn't need shims. You have virtually no caster, on a '69 or '70 shorten those strut bar's and get a min 2* of caster if not more. The guy that did your alignment did a great job if you had bias ply tires and and we were back in 1969. I use custom spec's or just adjust to the number's I want not paying attention to if it's red or green. BTW that Hunter machine he used is a great machine and extremely accurate $40-50K with the rack There's something else wrong. I suspect your idler arm is flexing allowing toe out, or the offset of those wheels are positive and causing a problem. Not sure what type of wheel that is. Would be good to know the offset, width and backspace and if they require spacers Not trying to "rain on your parade" but telling you like it is. I'm speaking from 47 yrs as a automotive professional and have done 100's of alignments Larry

These work well, use sheet rock blades http://www.ktoolinternational.com/kti/Tools/Product-Categories/Paint-And-Body-Equip-Supplies/Windshield-Tools/KTI70545/p/KTI70545

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32137_Metra-44-FD80.html I know it's cheap but it looks good, has short mast that screws off

Early 69 are same size dr-pass 2 7/8 x 4 3/8. Late 69 and 70 are different size dr side 2 7/8 x 4 1/2, pass 2 7/8 x 4 3/8