larryc94

It's a good idea to use a test light (the old fashion filament bulb type) to ground sending unit wire. It provides a small amount of resistance as not a direct short to ground to protect the gauge

Agree if you (and I'm sure you do) use OEM type open barrel connector with the proper crimping they are better than solder

Radiator baffle, fills in the space on the drivers side between 20" radiator and radiator support

That green/red provides power in the crank/run position which the EFI needs to start. Also that wire is in the harness that exits the firewall and runs along the pass shock tower brace. A very convenient place to open that harness to tap into that green/red wire that goes to the regulator. Make sure you solder and shrink wrap all connections. Wire taps and crimp connectors(solderless terminals) are unreliable. Biggest cause of failed installs

Yes it mounts to hole where the clutch rod was

I just repaired mine when I installed one of Z-rays crossmembers. I used a Helicoil and it worked out great. I will have to say I have installed lots of Helicoils over my 47 year career and always having apprentices to test my ability to repair stripped broken bolts. For starters the drill size for the 1/2x13 Helicoil is 17/32 same as the Shelby drop. I took my time and lubed and kept backing tap up to clear chips. I was trying to exert the least amount of torque so as not have the "nut" spin. Worked out perfectly and when done it torqued to 55 ft lbs no problem. The time serts are a little thicker and I'd be concerned they would take more of the nut and may weaken it. Just to add I got 2 new AMK bolts and used red loctite on the helicoil and never seize on the new bolts

Pulled the pedal and made a new hole 1/2" lower and now I'm getting the 1.4" stroke that the master is capable. The angle of the rod going to bell crank on the master looks ok. Really not much difference in effort if any. Looks like this will work out, thanks

I figure I got room. I'm going to measure the distance between the pivot at the top of clutch pedal to the hole where the linkage goes. Going make a cardboard model and see what different places for rod result in throw

Yes this was my first thought, easy to do and no harm if doesn't work. You would no see the extra hole and could afford the increase resistance as it's easy now

I have a '70 and looking for measurement from back of pedal to the floor where the pedal hits floor. Looking to see if my car the distance is off from others. I have a T5 setup using the fox bellhousing about 4 yrs old. Bought everything from MDL and first had a their cable setup and had to preload the adjustment to get it to disengage which wasn't right. fast forward 6 months I add headers and ruin the cable so I ordered there hyd setup with external slave. Works well but still have to preload adjustment more than what it should be. I know the fox throwout bearings are made for constant contact not like the bearing that would have come on the older cars. But this more than just contact. MDL figured out on some '69-'70's that the master they were using wasn't adequate it was a 0.70 bore size and they changed to a 0.75 . Well it is better with the 0.75 but still not right, needs some preload to get full disengagement My problem lies in the stroke of the master, I can only get 1.2" of stroke on a 1.4" stroke master. If i got that full 1.4" stroke I know i'd be golden. I even modified the brake/clutch support to have an adjustable clutch pedal stop which originally have a fixed stop to get as much throw as possible The measurement can be with carpet etc just the way you use it. I used a sliding square and placed the rule where the flat bar of the pedal hits the carpet and have the sliding square part behind the pedal/pad. BTW I just replaced the MDL clutch with a Centerforce II, resurfaced flywheel (also Centerforce will not honor warranty if not resurfaced or new) that had maybe 1500 miles, they took off less than 0.010. Did have an ever so slight, slight chatter at times under certain conditions. Probably more noticeable because you could see shaker quiver ever so slightly when it did it. New fork, pivot, checked bellhousing concentricity, parallelism, pivot ball height, flywheel thickness and runout with new Centerforce clutch. Still requires too much preload to fully disengage Thanks for any info

Remove it completely, replace seals in box (like $10) and a good time to replace firewall pad

That's a definite, the hub for the convertor has to occupy that space

Ownership change was 2011 and 2014 so I don't know why there not making wheels.

Hear is a copy of a message I received to maybe clear things up "Boy, my memory is admittedly a bit fuzzy on this, but I'm going to go on memory nonetheless...Yes, I'm pretty sure Coker has "absorbed" both companies. They've got quite the monopoly going on! I also remember that back when WV and Specialty were competitors, WV was re-rimming and re-chroming original Magnum centers, whereas Specialty was manufacturing an entirely new wheel. Each had their pros/cons, but I remember the Specialty wheels being a more nicely done piece.But that was way back when, has no bearing on today. Today, I think (in reality) that Coker has consolidated assets between both companies, and the Magnums being built in California are the Specialty tooling (especially since used/original center-hub cores have likely dried-up completely).So it's the only game in town that I'm aware of, short of repro Magnums possibly being made offshore?? In any case, I'd aim for Specialty."RickNPD

Yours has hose clamps, mine had wire ties. Being i can't leave things alone the wire tie's weren't real tight so I tighten them a little more. After done I noticed the pump it was a little louder. I use to be able to only hear it priming now if I listen at idle I can hear it. I think if I take it apart again I'll slit a piece of fuel hose to put around the bracket and use hose a clamp

I don't have the details of the sizes and I don't think they list them in the description on there site (this is for the clutch)

Most of stuff we are. A great company like MDL has figured out in there 69-70 hydraulic kit they changed the bore size of the master because reports of not enough throw. I have the early kit (about 3yrs old) and it's struggle to get enough throw, I have enough but had to maximize every adjustment

They all have a vacuum port on the regulator, it's only maybe in the past year there know saying to hook it up to a vacuum source

Fitech revised the design, they were using a check ball and it was getting jammed and not venting. I think it was a poor design by only letting gas or vapor out. But creating vacuum if it needed to draw air in the CC If you look down the vent and see a bronze filter it's the update On the redesigned harness and connector your right about the red and orange wires were larger terminals in a separate plug with larger gauge wire

I keep checking for the melted connector and can't find any signs at all. My terminal's are fine and it is 2 yrs so past warranty

Have been down the road of "leave well enough alone" and question myself why I didn't

My CC has been trouble free that I started to worry I might problems. So this summer I took it apart to check for problems others have reported. Looked for excessive assembly grease, debris, sock folded or too close to the bottom and loose fuel hose clamps on the pump. I found nothing wrong. put it back together and made sure I had towing coverage on my ins. Still running stock configuration, but I do have the revised vent with no check ball just the bronze screen

It's thicker than you think, used some teflon tape and taper of npt seals fine. Never seen any stains or leaks in 2 years. The problem is you can't have anything protrude it won't fit the opening. You could build a bead of weld to drill and tap. You mite have file the rear panel opening

Drilled and tapped neck 1/8 npt x 1/4 barbed fitting

I'm glad I had a little influence on you and maybe saved a vintage Mustang becoming a fireball. You'll sleep better