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larryc94

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Everything posted by larryc94

  1. I used part # TMC-90F-51 which was the correct application for my car. The kit is made for fold down or non fold down. You have to trim to fit for which you have. With left over pieces was able to fill over the wheel houses using spray glue The trunk looks so much better. finished off
  2. I have Wheel Vintique and there 4 years old. I think the key is they never get wet and I use Wheel Wax https://www.amazon.com/WheelWax-Ultimate-Protection-Wheels-Ounce/dp/B000IMB5CC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=wheel+wax&qid=1589886088&sr=8-4
  3. Anyone use one of these. I have read some reviews of the Scott Drake one. The Scott Drake one seems to have one of the gauge mountings at the wrong angle. I would assume the ACP bezel is not the Scott Drake piece? Any experiences ? Thanks ► Show Full Signature Larry
  4. West Coast Classic Cougar, heat gun
  5. Even the GM cars of this era were the same way
  6. Didn't remove the pedal to drill hole. Just apply brake to get pedal out of the way
  7. I used a alarm hood pin switch. Drilled a hole on the emergency brake bracket. Tapped into the wire going to the pressure differential sw. The foot pedal hits the plunger on the sw breaking the ground and turning off the brake warning light when the emergency brake is off.
  8. The brake warning light proveout circuit receives a ground when in the start position from the ignition sw. The warning light is powered in the run and start positions. If the pressure differential switch is activated it grounds the circuit and lights the warning light. The pressure differential switch is activated if you have a leak in the front or rear circuit or your bleeding the brakes
  9. No matter how well you drain it, rad and block drains there will be water still in there. Just drain and add the appropriate coolant. In the spring when you get it going and you have a problem, cracked block, pushed out core plugs, heater core you will wish you added the anti-freeze
  10. Those screws installed look no different than the original screw
  11. They have screws for this exact problem. The head is the correct size the threaded portion is larger https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-scuff-plate-repair-screws-for-oversized/100127?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Ddoor%2Bscuff%2Bplate%26top_parent%3D1%26year%3D1970&year=1970
  12. Maybe they buy parts and pieces and then modify them. I know on the Flowkooler water pump I bought it is a GMB and they modify it with own impeller
  13. The auto insert is not as deep, you will have a space between shifter boot. You can use and don't have to trim it. If you use a m/t on an auto you would have to trim it
  14. In 30 seconds a wheel lift tow truck and it's gone. I have watch them and they don't even get out of the truck
  15. Your welcome, There is a story their. The guy Sanco passed away and his friend took over the business. There was a gap where there was no contact or parts being sold. The friend seems to be a good guy and back in business.
  16. The repair tabs can be purchased at http://sancospecialties.com/ssproducts.html
  17. no, it says 15 circuit breaker for trans selector. It's a bad copy
  18. Tried to attached circuit protection from shop manual pet072.pdf
  19. '70 shop manual for Cougar states in fuse panel upper left. Shows Mustang and Cougar the same position
  20. Anchor 2257, Rock Auto $ 4.24 each + shipping and made here and fit well. Mustang vendor's sell them for over $20 each
  21. Disconnect drive belts to eliminate front accessories.
  22. the tabs I'm referring to are the locating tabs of the rear end yoke that the u-joint caps fit into
  23. I would loosen the rear u-joint and the see if there is any play between the locating tabs in the yoke. I had a slight annoying vibration also. I had 0.012" play by pushing and pulling the joint against the tabs As a temporary fix I cut two pieces of 0.006" feeler gauge to fit between the two tabs. Looks like you have a "long" yoke, very hard to find in a 1310 u-joint size. You have to get new or you risk having the same problem. I got one at Quick Performance, only thing it is a 1330 u-joint. You have to use a conversion joint 1310 by 1330 If the above is good I would have a driveshaft shop check the balance
  24. Windsor or Cleveland same flex plate, both 28 oz imbalance
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