Red Sportsroof

You should always run some anti freeze in your engine. Anti freeze has rust inhibitors and buffers in the mix helping the cooling system. Straight water will allow rust to develop, in the summer if you're having a problem with running hot weaken the mix. Fifty percent anti freeze will reduce the cooling efficiency by about 15%.

Mi ne will be a fifty year car this November and it has often been a B___ch but when finished getting it back in order I"m always thankful its not a friggin boat.

Good to hear the springs did the trick, getting that pedal support assembly out is a pain in everything. Keep an eye on it though as when it goes bad it has to go. Brian's Pedal description is about right for manuals and especially with power brakes. Jim

IF your problem persists after all the springs are attached, check the pivot bushing on the clutch pedal support assembly. Many years ago I had the same problem and it turned out the bushing was slotted instead of round and dragging so much the pedal would not return that last inch and a half. I had to remove the pedal assembly and installed bearings, problem solved.

If I remember right its kind of a bear to get back in, especially if the steering column isn't unbolted. I replaced the bushings with pillow block bearings and it made a world of difference but getting it back it took time and patience. I believe I had the drivers seat out so I could lay on my back to see what was going on underneath. I may have had my instrument cluster out too, ten years ago and I'm suffering from CRS at times.

Brian, Yours matches mine, my problem is the spring broke about a week ago, where in the heck would you find one of those.

I had a set of magnaflows on my Sportsroof a few years ago, they seemed to work okay. I used downturns out of the muffler instead of an exhaust pipe to the back. I changed it back to original and the aftermarket transverse muffler was a joke. It ran like it had potatoes stuck in the pipes and it was a dog. The greatest sound though is with the original resonators and piped out the back. Driving the freeway it sounds like a million and its not too loud but people know you've got something going on.

Be prepared, your front springs were not designed for that type of shock load due to so little rubber to help absorb hard impacts. I've seen the change take out more than one spring.

The seal prevents air from going over the top of the radiator, used mostly on big blocks, don't remember seeing them on small blocks. My 69 still has the original seal. the lip goes towards the rear and over the back of the radiator support. The staples should go through the break point on top of the seal but the factory ones were rarely in the right place, mine being perfect examples. Brian's pictures are good examples but I've never seen an original Metuchen built seal go past the hood pins.

I've replaced my heater core three times over the years and never removed the dashpad. The glove box, yes, dash, not necessary. The clips are not that hard to get off the box, once removed it separates and the core is accessible. On another note, I don't have AC, that might be a horse of a different color.

If you want to be dead on TDC use a dial indicator, they have them for spark plug holes and you can get it perfect and check your Harmonic Balancer mark at the same time.

Call and ask the manufacturer.

If you want it real quiet buy stock mufflers from NPD, or any other supplier, it may be slower and inconspicuous but it will be quiet.

I have 15-7 cragars on the rear with R235-15's and 14-6's on the front with R205 tires. I have no ps and the smaller tires make it much easier steering. The rears like a previous post have a penchant for disappearing but its a lot cheaper buying two at a time instead of all four at the same time.

Actually you would have to raise the gear ratio, to something like 3:50 or 3:25 to 1, fewer RPM's for fewer RPM's per mile, the CJ will handle it. A good motor and 3:50 gears will get you low 13's and High 12's with decent tires.