jgkurz

Hi folks, Based on all your feedback, here my high-level assembly list. Please comment if I've missed something.
Thank you!
-John
 
1969 Mustang Front-End Assembly Sequence
1.    Make sure doors are aligned
2.    Assemble Headlight Buckets (Fender Extensions) with grill surround and moulding
3.    Attach Headlight Buckets (Fender Extensions) to fenders
4.    Install fenders to aprons, leave loose on top
5.    Install cowl, leave loose
6.    Install hood
7.    Align all gaps and tighten bolts
8.    Install front bumper
9.    Install gravel shield/stone deflector
10.    Install front valance
11.    Final gap adjustment

On my 69 Coupe I performed the Shelby/Arning UCA drop, then I installed the front suspension, then the steering box & linkage, next came the brakes, brake lines & hydraulic clutch system. Then once I have the engine built I will install the engine & the trans then install the f/e sheet metal.

I just looked at NPD's on line catalog on page #-124 & they offer the buttons for 68, & 70 - 73.

The problem is solved. I'm happy but slightly embarrased because it was a simple fix. The wheel cylinders were locked up tight with rust. Looking at the outside surface they looked almost new. Wow, looks can be deceiving. I bought my car in 2013 and never inspected them because the brakes were reasonable for a 60's muscle car. They were actually better than all my friends old cars by a long shot. All this time I was operating on just the front brakes. I even went to the drag strip once and had no issues getting slowed down from a trap speed of 101mph. Now that the rear brakes are working it will obviously brake even better. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. 

Good reminder Ridge Runner! 
 

Yes, I used a tool from West Coast Classic Cougar to lock the distribution block.
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/15663-Brake-Distribution-Switch-Tool-New-1967-1973-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1973-Ford-Mustang.html
I also bench bled the master cylinder before bleeding all the brakes. 

Hi John, I just installed custom headers in my 69 that has a FE 390.  I installed the headers first then installed the engine.  Then I installed the T-5 tranny and etc. That seem to be the most efficient way for me.  I would do the same again.  Here is what I learned.
1.  My custom headers hit in 3 spots.  The top idler arm bolt, passenger side motor mount corner and driver's side shock tower brace.  So it was easier to pull the engine and fix the three areas.  So much for custom fit headers. 
2.  When the engine was in you could not have got all the bolts in.  I assume you could raise the motor and work over the fenders to install them.  So much easier when out and greatly lowers the chance of exhaust leaks.
3.  Less chance of damaging the engine, engine bay or vehicle.  
Mark    
 

Hi Folks,
 
I was at an All-Ford show this weekend and there were several 69/70 Mustangs. I noticed that most cars had the Bendix booster like my 69 Q code with power front discs. Some cars had the Midland booster which seems to fit a bit better with big block FE cars. The Midland boosters have a indentation near the corner of the valve cover which seems be a better fit.
 
Is the any rhyme or reason which cars got the Bendix booster and which got the Midland booster?
 
Thank you

Hi Folks,
 
I was at an All-Ford show this weekend and there were several 69/70 Mustangs. I noticed that most cars had the Bendix booster like my 69 Q code with power front discs. Some cars had the Midland booster which seems to fit a bit better with big block FE cars. The Midland boosters have a indentation near the corner of the valve cover which seems be a better fit.
 
Is the any rhyme or reason which cars got the Bendix booster and which got the Midland booster?
 
Thank you

Hi Folks, I finally have my transmission and wanted to share some info about my unique project. I have a stout stroker FE built for my 69 Q Code and needed a transmission. I debated going Tremec TKO600 but for a few reasons decided an automatic was best. I have a fun stick car already plus I like to drag race so an auto made sense. A 5spd can certainly drag race but it's harder on the car and much more difficult to be consistent. My car will be used for both street and strip duty so a tough situation. A great street transmission doesn't make a great drag race trans and vice versa. I looked into many options including AOD, AODE, C6 with GV, adapter plate, but settled on an offering by Broader Performance in Texas. They were very experienced with modern Ford transmissions and were FE fans which was a bonus. They were able to machine an old FE Cruise-O-matic bell housing onto the 4R70W. This allowed me to use my FE starter with no weird adapter plate. It's really an impressive engineer feat I think. I will be able to use my original speedo cable and shifter so it will all look stock and sleeperish. If you don't know about the 4R70W it is quite a cool transmission. They hold up to a ton of power from the factory and have 4 gears with a lockup converter. I paid to have my internals beefed up plus I have a heavier duty lockup to handle the torque. I am going to use a Baumann Quick 4 controller that can have multiple profiles to adjust shift characteristics and shift points with a turn of a dial. The stall is 3000RPM so hopefully a good balance between street and strip functionality. The rear trans mount and shift rod was made by a gentleman named Joe Persad from another forum. The only major things left are the trans cooler and the driveline. I hope to have it in the car in the spring or summer at the latest. I can't wait!
 
-John
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

Hi Folks, I finally have my transmission and wanted to share some info about my unique project. I have a stout stroker FE built for my 69 Q Code and needed a transmission. I debated going Tremec TKO600 but for a few reasons decided an automatic was best. I have a fun stick car already plus I like to drag race so an auto made sense. A 5spd can certainly drag race but it's harder on the car and much more difficult to be consistent. My car will be used for both street and strip duty so a tough situation. A great street transmission doesn't make a great drag race trans and vice versa. I looked into many options including AOD, AODE, C6 with GV, adapter plate, but settled on an offering by Broader Performance in Texas. They were very experienced with modern Ford transmissions and were FE fans which was a bonus. They were able to machine an old FE Cruise-O-matic bell housing onto the 4R70W. This allowed me to use my FE starter with no weird adapter plate. It's really an impressive engineer feat I think. I will be able to use my original speedo cable and shifter so it will all look stock and sleeperish. If you don't know about the 4R70W it is quite a cool transmission. They hold up to a ton of power from the factory and have 4 gears with a lockup converter. I paid to have my internals beefed up plus I have a heavier duty lockup to handle the torque. I am going to use a Baumann Quick 4 controller that can have multiple profiles to adjust shift characteristics and shift points with a turn of a dial. The stall is 3000RPM so hopefully a good balance between street and strip functionality. The rear trans mount and shift rod was made by a gentleman named Joe Persad from another forum. The only major things left are the trans cooler and the driveline. I hope to have it in the car in the spring or summer at the latest. I can't wait!
 
-John
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

Hi Folks, I finally have my transmission and wanted to share some info about my unique project. I have a stout stroker FE built for my 69 Q Code and needed a transmission. I debated going Tremec TKO600 but for a few reasons decided an automatic was best. I have a fun stick car already plus I like to drag race so an auto made sense. A 5spd can certainly drag race but it's harder on the car and much more difficult to be consistent. My car will be used for both street and strip duty so a tough situation. A great street transmission doesn't make a great drag race trans and vice versa. I looked into many options including AOD, AODE, C6 with GV, adapter plate, but settled on an offering by Broader Performance in Texas. They were very experienced with modern Ford transmissions and were FE fans which was a bonus. They were able to machine an old FE Cruise-O-matic bell housing onto the 4R70W. This allowed me to use my FE starter with no weird adapter plate. It's really an impressive engineer feat I think. I will be able to use my original speedo cable and shifter so it will all look stock and sleeperish. If you don't know about the 4R70W it is quite a cool transmission. They hold up to a ton of power from the factory and have 4 gears with a lockup converter. I paid to have my internals beefed up plus I have a heavier duty lockup to handle the torque. I am going to use a Baumann Quick 4 controller that can have multiple profiles to adjust shift characteristics and shift points with a turn of a dial. The stall is 3000RPM so hopefully a good balance between street and strip functionality. The rear trans mount and shift rod was made by a gentleman named Joe Persad from another forum. The only major things left are the trans cooler and the driveline. I hope to have it in the car in the spring or summer at the latest. I can't wait!
 
-John
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

Hi Folks, I finally have my transmission and wanted to share some info about my unique project. I have a stout stroker FE built for my 69 Q Code and needed a transmission. I debated going Tremec TKO600 but for a few reasons decided an automatic was best. I have a fun stick car already plus I like to drag race so an auto made sense. A 5spd can certainly drag race but it's harder on the car and much more difficult to be consistent. My car will be used for both street and strip duty so a tough situation. A great street transmission doesn't make a great drag race trans and vice versa. I looked into many options including AOD, AODE, C6 with GV, adapter plate, but settled on an offering by Broader Performance in Texas. They were very experienced with modern Ford transmissions and were FE fans which was a bonus. They were able to machine an old FE Cruise-O-matic bell housing onto the 4R70W. This allowed me to use my FE starter with no weird adapter plate. It's really an impressive engineer feat I think. I will be able to use my original speedo cable and shifter so it will all look stock and sleeperish. If you don't know about the 4R70W it is quite a cool transmission. They hold up to a ton of power from the factory and have 4 gears with a lockup converter. I paid to have my internals beefed up plus I have a heavier duty lockup to handle the torque. I am going to use a Baumann Quick 4 controller that can have multiple profiles to adjust shift characteristics and shift points with a turn of a dial. The stall is 3000RPM so hopefully a good balance between street and strip functionality. The rear trans mount and shift rod was made by a gentleman named Joe Persad from another forum. The only major things left are the trans cooler and the driveline. I hope to have it in the car in the spring or summer at the latest. I can't wait!
 
-John
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

This thread is spawning off another Borgeson thread here where some of us are wondering who actually likes their Borgeson install. It seemed appropriate to start a new thread. 
 
Personally, I am in the middle of a Borgeson install myself and now have second thoughts. I am into the project about $1000.00 and still have the ability to back out without much consequences. My engine is out so I need to get this resolved beforehand. I am hoping for steering, as promised by Borgeson, that feels good at low and high speeds and the return to center actually works. I am less concerned about leaks and far more concerned about the feel of the Borgeson install. I can fix leaks. Design flaws are far more difficult. I know there are two boxes for the 69 Mustang. The early box, if I recall correctly, has a 16:1 ratio where the latest box has a 14:1 ratio. The only way to tell the difference is to check the turns - lock to lock. I know the PS pump pressure is a significant factor to the feel of the system. Borgeson wants 1150-1350psi to their box with standard type PS fluid, not synthetic. They also want 3-4deg positive caster. I have also read that the Idler Arm may impact the steering geometry. I am using an ACP reproduction version not OEM or roller type. I am unsure which is better. Lastly, I am planning to use a manual steering link so I don't have to use the adapter.
 
Please comment if you like your Borgeson power steering setup.
 
 
 
Thank you,
John

This thread is spawning off another Borgeson thread here where some of us are wondering who actually likes their Borgeson install. It seemed appropriate to start a new thread. 
 
Personally, I am in the middle of a Borgeson install myself and now have second thoughts. I am into the project about $1000.00 and still have the ability to back out without much consequences. My engine is out so I need to get this resolved beforehand. I am hoping for steering, as promised by Borgeson, that feels good at low and high speeds and the return to center actually works. I am less concerned about leaks and far more concerned about the feel of the Borgeson install. I can fix leaks. Design flaws are far more difficult. I know there are two boxes for the 69 Mustang. The early box, if I recall correctly, has a 16:1 ratio where the latest box has a 14:1 ratio. The only way to tell the difference is to check the turns - lock to lock. I know the PS pump pressure is a significant factor to the feel of the system. Borgeson wants 1150-1350psi to their box with standard type PS fluid, not synthetic. They also want 3-4deg positive caster. I have also read that the Idler Arm may impact the steering geometry. I am using an ACP reproduction version not OEM or roller type. I am unsure which is better. Lastly, I am planning to use a manual steering link so I don't have to use the adapter.
 
Please comment if you like your Borgeson power steering setup.
 
 
 
Thank you,
John

This thread is spawning off another Borgeson thread here where some of us are wondering who actually likes their Borgeson install. It seemed appropriate to start a new thread. 
 
Personally, I am in the middle of a Borgeson install myself and now have second thoughts. I am into the project about $1000.00 and still have the ability to back out without much consequences. My engine is out so I need to get this resolved beforehand. I am hoping for steering, as promised by Borgeson, that feels good at low and high speeds and the return to center actually works. I am less concerned about leaks and far more concerned about the feel of the Borgeson install. I can fix leaks. Design flaws are far more difficult. I know there are two boxes for the 69 Mustang. The early box, if I recall correctly, has a 16:1 ratio where the latest box has a 14:1 ratio. The only way to tell the difference is to check the turns - lock to lock. I know the PS pump pressure is a significant factor to the feel of the system. Borgeson wants 1150-1350psi to their box with standard type PS fluid, not synthetic. They also want 3-4deg positive caster. I have also read that the Idler Arm may impact the steering geometry. I am using an ACP reproduction version not OEM or roller type. I am unsure which is better. Lastly, I am planning to use a manual steering link so I don't have to use the adapter.
 
Please comment if you like your Borgeson power steering setup.
 
 
 
Thank you,
John

This thread is spawning off another Borgeson thread here where some of us are wondering who actually likes their Borgeson install. It seemed appropriate to start a new thread. 
 
Personally, I am in the middle of a Borgeson install myself and now have second thoughts. I am into the project about $1000.00 and still have the ability to back out without much consequences. My engine is out so I need to get this resolved beforehand. I am hoping for steering, as promised by Borgeson, that feels good at low and high speeds and the return to center actually works. I am less concerned about leaks and far more concerned about the feel of the Borgeson install. I can fix leaks. Design flaws are far more difficult. I know there are two boxes for the 69 Mustang. The early box, if I recall correctly, has a 16:1 ratio where the latest box has a 14:1 ratio. The only way to tell the difference is to check the turns - lock to lock. I know the PS pump pressure is a significant factor to the feel of the system. Borgeson wants 1150-1350psi to their box with standard type PS fluid, not synthetic. They also want 3-4deg positive caster. I have also read that the Idler Arm may impact the steering geometry. I am using an ACP reproduction version not OEM or roller type. I am unsure which is better. Lastly, I am planning to use a manual steering link so I don't have to use the adapter.
 
Please comment if you like your Borgeson power steering setup.
 
 
 
Thank you,
John

This thread is spawning off another Borgeson thread here where some of us are wondering who actually likes their Borgeson install. It seemed appropriate to start a new thread. 
 
Personally, I am in the middle of a Borgeson install myself and now have second thoughts. I am into the project about $1000.00 and still have the ability to back out without much consequences. My engine is out so I need to get this resolved beforehand. I am hoping for steering, as promised by Borgeson, that feels good at low and high speeds and the return to center actually works. I am less concerned about leaks and far more concerned about the feel of the Borgeson install. I can fix leaks. Design flaws are far more difficult. I know there are two boxes for the 69 Mustang. The early box, if I recall correctly, has a 16:1 ratio where the latest box has a 14:1 ratio. The only way to tell the difference is to check the turns - lock to lock. I know the PS pump pressure is a significant factor to the feel of the system. Borgeson wants 1150-1350psi to their box with standard type PS fluid, not synthetic. They also want 3-4deg positive caster. I have also read that the Idler Arm may impact the steering geometry. I am using an ACP reproduction version not OEM or roller type. I am unsure which is better. Lastly, I am planning to use a manual steering link so I don't have to use the adapter.
 
Please comment if you like your Borgeson power steering setup.
 
 
 
Thank you,
John

This thread is spawning off another Borgeson thread here where some of us are wondering who actually likes their Borgeson install. It seemed appropriate to start a new thread. 
 
Personally, I am in the middle of a Borgeson install myself and now have second thoughts. I am into the project about $1000.00 and still have the ability to back out without much consequences. My engine is out so I need to get this resolved beforehand. I am hoping for steering, as promised by Borgeson, that feels good at low and high speeds and the return to center actually works. I am less concerned about leaks and far more concerned about the feel of the Borgeson install. I can fix leaks. Design flaws are far more difficult. I know there are two boxes for the 69 Mustang. The early box, if I recall correctly, has a 16:1 ratio where the latest box has a 14:1 ratio. The only way to tell the difference is to check the turns - lock to lock. I know the PS pump pressure is a significant factor to the feel of the system. Borgeson wants 1150-1350psi to their box with standard type PS fluid, not synthetic. They also want 3-4deg positive caster. I have also read that the Idler Arm may impact the steering geometry. I am using an ACP reproduction version not OEM or roller type. I am unsure which is better. Lastly, I am planning to use a manual steering link so I don't have to use the adapter.
 
Please comment if you like your Borgeson power steering setup.
 
 
 
Thank you,
John

This thread is spawning off another Borgeson thread here where some of us are wondering who actually likes their Borgeson install. It seemed appropriate to start a new thread. 
 
Personally, I am in the middle of a Borgeson install myself and now have second thoughts. I am into the project about $1000.00 and still have the ability to back out without much consequences. My engine is out so I need to get this resolved beforehand. I am hoping for steering, as promised by Borgeson, that feels good at low and high speeds and the return to center actually works. I am less concerned about leaks and far more concerned about the feel of the Borgeson install. I can fix leaks. Design flaws are far more difficult. I know there are two boxes for the 69 Mustang. The early box, if I recall correctly, has a 16:1 ratio where the latest box has a 14:1 ratio. The only way to tell the difference is to check the turns - lock to lock. I know the PS pump pressure is a significant factor to the feel of the system. Borgeson wants 1150-1350psi to their box with standard type PS fluid, not synthetic. They also want 3-4deg positive caster. I have also read that the Idler Arm may impact the steering geometry. I am using an ACP reproduction version not OEM or roller type. I am unsure which is better. Lastly, I am planning to use a manual steering link so I don't have to use the adapter.
 
Please comment if you like your Borgeson power steering setup.
 
 
 
Thank you,
John

I am in the middle of a Borgeson install myself and now have second thoughts. I am into the project about $1000.00 and still have the ability to back out without much consequences. My engine is out so I need to get this resolved beforehand. 
 
Maybe I need to start a new post. Has ANYONE ever had a successful Borgeson install in their 69-70 Mustang?!?!?!?!?
 
Successful to me means the feel is good at low and high speeds and the return to center actually works. 
 
-John

I am thinking about taking advantage of Black Friday deals and buying a set of drag radials for my 69 Mach 1. I currently have a set of 255/60-15 BFG's that look great but aren't the best for traction. What would it take to get a set of 275/60-15's in the wheel well? I would be putting them on my 15 x 8 Magnum 500 wheels. 
 
Thanks,
John
 
 

I called and got the pictures. They're not exactly what I was hoping for but I will upload them so we can take a look. I'll try to get to it after work or by this weekend at the latest.

Is anyone here running the old style Goodyear Polyglas tires on your Mustang? I need a high res photo of an F60-15 tire for a project I'm working on. In short, I'm having some Tire Stickers made up so I can make new radial tires look like an original muscle car tire. It might look cool to add raised white letters to drag radials. or.... it might look odd. Either way it will be cheap to experiment. 
 
 

 
 

I happen to have the spare tire that is the original polyglass tire and I believe it's an F60-15  I can try a snap a pic tomorrow,  Anything in particular your looking for?  I don't know if it has the sticker,  I doubt it does.