Chappy

Seems like most of my pictures are with the hood open. :)

Haven’t updated this in a long time, but figured I would follow up with some finished pictures and information. Been on the road now for approximately 6 months now. Engine : 2003 Cobra Supercharged 4.6L Steig stage 3 ported Eaton 2.93 upper pulley, 4lb lower Metco aux idler and other pulleys Accufab single blade throttle body Frozenboost Heat Exchanger Custom made throttle body plenum Head cooling mod Coolant bypass hose delete 60lb injectors Magnaflow 2.5” exhaust with Xpipe Aftermarket fuel rails Bosch 044 fuel pump Fore fuel pressure regulator -8 feed/-6 return fuel lines Glenn’s performance sleeper fuel tank Remote oil filter Stock 03 computer ran by a Detail Zone wiring harness Summit aluminum radiator Contour electric fan Trans/drivetrain : 2008 GT500 TR6060 6 speed transmission GT500 dual disc clutch Stock GT500 clutch hydraulics Wilwood 5/8” clutch master hooked to stock pedals GT500 Pro5.0 shifter CCI driveline 1 piece 3” aluminum driveshaft Fox body 8.8 rear end housing with brackets removed, spring perches welded on the housing 31 spline ford diff 3.73 gears 31 spline strange 5 lug axles Brakes: 13” front Cobra brakes 11.6” rear cobra brakes 1” master cylinder (96 explorer) Fox Mustang 4cyl brake booster Wilwood adjustable prop valve/distribution block Suspension/Steering/Wheels AJE Racing Colt 65 front strut suspension 200 lb/in front spring 03 Cobra steering rack Rebuilt stock 70 tilt steering column Calvert Racing adjustable rear shocks Calvert Racing Caltrac Flex-a-form 225lb/in fiberglass rear leaf springs 18x9 AMR Dark Stainless Front Wheels, 275/35/18 Toyo R888R tires, 1” spacer 18x10 AMR Dark Stainless Rear Wheels, 305/35/18 Toyo R888R tires, 5mm spacer Interior TMI Pro-Chicane front seats with grabber blue stitching, 2” rear mounting brackets TMI rear seat covers with grabber blue stitching TMI 1 piece headliner M2F carbon look gauge/clock panel Speedhut gauges Forever Sharp Billet Black Muscle half wrap steering wheel, with Carbon look wrap Custom center console Classic Auto Air AC system Retro sound radio 5.25” Rockford Fosgate Speakers in kick panels 6.5” Rockford Fosgate Speaker in custom made package tray Kenwood Excelon amplifier Polk Audio 10” sub Custom Sub Box 3 point front seat belts Basically all new aftermarket interior hard panels Body/MISC Grabber Blue paint Grabber side stripes 69 Mach style Blacked out hood EzWire complete car harness Custom subframe connectors Front seat pans moved down 1” Moroso battery box in trunk with group 56 battery H4 headlights 3 bulb rear brake/turn lights Sound deadening/thermal barrier installed throughout the interior

I'm looking to purchase one of their bezels, and run Speedhut gauges in it. It's looks like on MTF's website the gauges are 5" and recommended to be 2 5/8". Speedhut doesn't offer a 5" gauge, their closest is a 4.5". Does anyone know if these will work? Second question is dealing with the 2 5/8" gauges. They strongly recommend this over a 2 1/16" size. Is this for best gauge bezel fitment? Or is there another reason not to use 2 1/16"? I'm wanting to purchase the gauges before the end in of the weekend, as they are having a pretty good sale right now. So any help would be appreciated! Pictures of install of speedhuts in MTF's bezel would be a big plus as well! :)

Sorry for the late response on this, haven't been on here in a really long time. The booster is a Fox Mustang 4cyl. No real major updates on the car since I've moved out to California. Been too busy to really get a lot accomplished. Every once in a while I'll get a day to work on it, so progress has been really slow.

Nothing real special... 2.76 pulley, jlt CAI, catted x pipe, bassani catback, lowered, 18" FR500 Chromes. I'm a little concerned about the emissions testing once I get out there, but I hear with the stock H on the car and the tune back to stock, I should probably be ok on things. Any comments?

Nothing real special... 2.76 pulley, jlt CAI, catted x pipe, bassani catback, lowered, 18" FR500 Chromes. I'm a little concerned about the emissions testing once I get out there, but I hear with the stock H on the car and the tune back to stock, I should probably be ok on things. Any comments?

Nothing real special... 2.76 pulley, jlt CAI, catted x pipe, bassani catback, lowered, 18" FR500 Chromes. I'm a little concerned about the emissions testing once I get out there, but I hear with the stock H on the car and the tune back to stock, I should probably be ok on things. Any comments?

I'm not specifically looking for 69/70 cars (although it would be nice!). I've got an 04 Cobra as well. Wasn't sure if there were some 'general' car forums for the area? Thanks

I'm not specifically looking for 69/70 cars (although it would be nice!). I've got an 04 Cobra as well. Wasn't sure if there were some 'general' car forums for the area? Thanks

Thanks guys, any good forums to visit out there other than the ca-mustang one? Doesn't have to be Mustang specific. Look forward to maybe meeting you guys here sometime. The car is going to be in storage until I can find a house/place to put it out there, so it might be a couple of months before I get back into things. Todd

Probably the last real update on the car for a little while. I'm in the process of changing jobs and being relocated (moving from Indy to the San Jose/Fremont California area). I'm guessing the car will be on hold for a little while do to the relocation, but hopefully once I get settled out there I might have some more time to really bust through some things. Back to the update: So for the steering column, I cut the original column tube down, inserted a 3/4" D shaft into it and welded it on. On the end of the column I installed a 1 5/8" OD, 3/4" ID flanged roller bearing (6384K367 from McMasterCarr). The fit of the bearing is pretty snug, so I don't think I need anything to keep it in. I also purchased a driveshaft for the car from CCI driveline (http://www.ccidriveline.com/). The shaft is basically their '1 piece' shaft they sell for 07+ GT500s, but with a custom length. I ended up going with a 3.5" OD shaft with 53.5" flange to flange length callout. They made the shaft and shipped it the same day as my order, had it two days later. Great service, great looking shaft. Installed it without any issues. Would definitely recommend them to anyone looking for a shaft. Aside from not having any brakes hooked up on the car, I should be able to start it up and drive it onto a trailer for transport out to California.

A little update... if anyone is wanting to use a fox/sn rack, don't bother getting the Unisteer rack fittings. Long story short, the fittings won't fit beside each on the rack, so you can't actually install them. Then you can't tighten the bolt down on the pump because it hits the alternator bracket. So I spent a couple hours tearing off the old stuff, just to put it back on. Good news is it appears I might have fixed my leaks (the problem before was the high pressure hose blowing off a push to connect AN fitting). Started it back up again over the weekend and let it run for probably close to 20 minutes. Got up to 220 coolant temps (no fans) before I shut it down. No real signs of leaks... I did get a steering shaft made up for the car. I'll take some pictures to show how it works.

Thanks guys... definitely been a lot of work. Seems like you take 2 steps forward, 1 back sometimes. Had the car running on Saturday night, everything seemed to be going great, then the power steering lines decided they didn't like having fluid any more. Looks like I just need to get some different fittings for the high pressure side, so they are on the way and a few other random parts. Hopefully... I can get the fittings changed out and the car will start/warm up to full operating temp without issues. As of now I've probably ran it 20 minutes total.

Installed a new heat exchanger to get better fitment. It is a 26x7x3.5 unit from FrozenBoost. I would say the thing is built very well. Only complaint I have is that it is a little on the heavy side. I made brackets for the upper and lower sides of the heat exchanger. The upper mount uses the grille support bolt locations, the lower brackets bolt to two threaded inserts in the front crossmember. In an effort to reduce clutch pedal effort, I installed a new master cylinder for the clutch. This time using a 5/8" bore master from Wilwood. Along with the new master I also changed the way the master bolts to the clutch pedal (moving the actuation point up approximately 1.5"). This has resulted in a very nice pedal feel. I started working on fitting up an export brace for the car. The firewall plate and the shock tower plates are made from 3/16" steel, the rods are 1" diameter 1/8" wall tubing. Obviously not welded up yet, but getting things ready. Fabbed up some brackets for mounting the coolant overflow tank. I cut the tabs out of the original radiator support, then welded in an angled support bracket to give it a little more rigidity. I cut away approximately 2" of the stock radiator mounting location from the original radiator support. This got put the radiator closer to the AC condenser, and also allowed a little more room between the radiator and the engine. Made a fender mounted cold air intake. This basically is using the same silicone couplers I used before on the underhood mount. I used the plastic pipe from a JLT high boost intake for an 03/04 Cobra. Cut a hole in the fenderwell for it. Current underhood shot (obviously colors on things will change when finished).

Worked on the trans tunnel a little bit last night. Will hopefully get everything close to finished up ready for welding tonight on it. As far as the exterior of the body is concerned, the roof/cowl/hood/upper quarters are all original. For underbody, the bulk of the front frame is original (except the lower sections by the floor supports), as are the front crossmember, what is left of the shock towers, inner/outer cowl, inner/outer rockers, what is left of the trans cross member, shock mount pan, rear rails (except the last two feet), rear torque boxes, and all of the rear inner support metal. Not sure how much that equates to, but I would guess over 50% of the car is new now.

No real update unfortunately... life getting in the way of fun. ;) The stock hood does fit, that was one of my main concerns with the setup. Hopefully I'll have some updates soon on it.

It runs! http://cid-de133f2e04280dcc.photos.live.com/self.aspx/Mustang/Startup.wmv

Still undecided, either a gunmetal color... or grabber blue. Just not sure if I want that loud of a color. ;)

Good looking car there. Honestly those 20's don't look big on it to me. So that is a 27" tall tire, and 4.5 Mid Eyes are supposed to be a 1" drop correct?

couple of recent pictures Throttle cable bracket, custom intake plenum. Engine with MKVIII valve covers, and custom intake plenum. Transmission Mount, made from 1/4" Steel. Modifications to the heater control valve Valve showing the cable installed

I'm just about to purchase my rear suspension componets for my car, I'm looking for input as to how low I want to spec out my new rear springs. So post up pictures of your car, then comment as to what ride height you have (stock, lowered 1", etc). Also might be important to me to give tire size as well. I'm going to be running a 26" tall rear tire, so that might make a difference. Thanks

Wow, that was wordy. Hopefully the next post will be more pictures, less text. ;)

Slow going here, spent almost the whole month of January out of town for work, so nothing really got accomplished during that time. The past few weeks I’ve done the following: Removed the TR6060 (heavy SOB), installed the clutch, reinstalled the trans. I’m going to be using the stock Shelby dual disc clutch/hydraulic slave. I ordered a braided clutch line from JPC that connects to the stock connectors. I also ordered a wilwood master for the clutch (3/4” bore, same as the stock Shelby). Those parts should be in here this week. Once I get them in I need to hook the clutch linkage stuff up and find placement for the reservoir/etc. I’ve also been working on the trans mount. I’ve got access to a plasma cam at work (plasma cutter that cuts based off a CAD file). I’ve cut out my first attempt last week, but unfortunately some of the measurements were slightly off. So hopefully today I will get my second attempt cut out and bent. I’ll take some pictures when it is completed. Removed the stock 03/04 Valve covers, installed MKVIII covers on both sides (this is needed as the intake vent hose on the 03/04 stuff is at the front of the cover, which will interfere with my intake tubing, so really only the passenger side needed changed out, but I’m selling the stock 03/04 stuff as a pair). I think I mentioned earlier in the thread that I had to make a new plenum that goes from the supercharger to the throttle body. This was needed as the stock 03 plenum dumped the throttle body right into the top of the shock tower, and didn’t leave any room for intake tubing. So I purchased a 90 degree, 4” Oval exhaust tubing from a place on ebay, made attachment plates for both the TB and Supercharger sides, then modified the tubing to fit, welded it all together. Now the TB dumps out mid valve cover parallel to the crank centerline. Loosely installed the engine wiring and ran it through the firewall. The plan is to hopefully start the car here sometime soon. Just to check function on parts, then tear it all back apart again (not looking forward to that). Figuring out heater lines, how they run and what needs to be used. I have a Classic Auto Air aftermarket AC system. They include a shutoff valve that goes to the heater lines to control flow of hot coolant going through the core. The shutoff valve is cable actuated based off the hot/cold settings on the stock heater controls. Well a 4.6L engine has heater feed pulled off the passenger side head, it then goes through the heater core, then returns to the back side of the water pump. My understanding is this system needs to be free flowing at all times. So the issue is I can’t just shut the flow off when the heater isn’t being used. After looking around I found a couple of bypass valves that were vacuum actuated (specifically I used a 96 Ranger heater control valve). I gutted the vacuum stuff off the valve, and then took apart the cable actuated shutoff valve. Basically I used the plate from the cable unit, drilled a few holes in it, bent the control rod, etc and I think it will work. The only thing I’m not sure of is how much control I’ll have with the bypass style valve, as it uses butterflies instead of a ball valve. We will have to see how that goes once the car is together and functioning (this will be a while still). I installed a head cooling mod to the driver side head as well, so coolant will now circulate through both heads (this is a common problem/mod on 4.6 cars). So now with the bypass valve I will have the heater lines ran the following way… driver and passenger head supply lines meet and Tee together, the third side of the tee goes to one part of the ranger bypass valve. The other port (that is common with it) goes into the heater core. The outlet of the heater core then supplies back to the bypass valve. The outlet of the valve then sends fluid back to the water pump. If anyone has any questions on this, please let me know. I’ve loosely figured out where/how I’m going to run my AC lines. I really want to use hard lines for almost everything, but I can’t seem to find them available in lengths I need for bending. I have some odd sizes (like 51” long, etc). I might have to end up using rubber lines, which isn’t a big deal, I just like the look of hard line better. After doing some reading on modular fords about cooling systems I found the following thread: http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php/160562-Simplify-your-cooling-system The thought here is to simplfy the cooling system on the car. Stock the DOHC stuff has a little bit of a complicated cooling system. Doing what is described in the post will eliminate a few parts, plus it also takes up less space (which is really what I’m concerned about, real estate in the engine bay is getting pretty small now without looking cluttered). I’ve ordered a Griffin universal radiator 26”x16” that will incorporate the radiator cap. I’ve also ordered the inline thermostat discussed in the thread. My plan is to run the coolant lines the following way. Upper Radiator hose -> Inline Thermostat -> Upper on Radiator -> Lower on Radiator -> Engine Plate Then I will have a small catch can that holds fluid from the radiator blow down tube location. This should work from what I’m reading. We’ll see I guess. You'll notice in the pictures above that I had a stock 03 radiator/fan installed at that point. It probably would have worked, but I think this will make for a cleaner install, plus the 03 radiator is quite a bit larger than I liked in the car (28"x19"). In the end, the way I'm running it now will cost about the same as the old design, and should take less space. I purchased a new coolant/engine outlet plate as well. Originally I was going to use a Moroso piece. But after reading more, these choke down the cooling system as the outlet is roughly a 7/8” hole. Ford Racing makes an outlet that is a true 2” hose outlet, with -10AN Oring fittings for the oil lines. I’m also not going to initially run an oil cooler on the car. Many guys are saying it isn’t necessary unless you are open tracking. So we’ll see how that goes. I’ve still got the old cooler if it is needed. I installed a 03 Cobra Throttle cable, made a special bracket to hold the cable at the throttle body. The cable looks like it should work, but it is a little tight. I might have to get a longer cable once I get the car running, it is all going to depend on how much movement the engine actually sees when it is running. Ordered all of my fuel system parts. I’m going to run a Glenn’s Performance sleeper style gas tank, -10 Feed to the pump, a single external mounted Bosch -044 pump, with a -8 feed line to the engine. I have aftermarket fuel rails, going out to a Fore Performance regulator, returning back to the tank in -6 size. Should be plenty of fuel system for what I’m doing. I think that is most of what I’ve been doing lately. The goal right now is to get the car started/running and basically all of the lines/fittings/wiring solved before paint happens. This way hopefully all of the holes/brackets that are needed are made up and ready to go and I won’t have to mess with making/modifying things around a new coat of paint. ;) I’ve got some pictures that I can hopefully get uploaded in the next few days, I just haven’t had the time to do it yet.

I like the black look. They don't list them for 70 cars though. Not sure if there is much difference between the two though... in my mind they should work right?

Here are some pictures of where I stand as of yesterday evening. The engine is back in the car, TR6060 is bolted up, changed out the SC to the ported eaton (still need to install the SC pulley on it). Started figuring out all of the fuel line fittings/locations, remote oil filter location, etc. This is a rough picture showing the remote shifter on te TR6060, and relationship to steering wheel. Basically it's about 6" more to the rear, and then is it is raised 2" or so from the stock location. From my rough placement in the car, it should be comfortably placed, no need to have an angled stick, or have to reach for the shifter. Shows rough placement of all of the coolers on the car (AC condensor, Heat Exchanger, Oil Cooler, and Radiator) The 8.8 Rear axle is under the car, still need to weld the spring perches on the axle, but I'm going to hold off on that for a little while. You'll also see that the exhaust is ran losely. The front section is from an offroad x I had that someone had made, basically it has the stock manifold mating pipes, with some short extentions welded onto it. From there it goes back into a full Magnaflow 2.5" kit. The only things modified so far on the magnaflow are the front extention pipes. These needed to be cut down to fit the stock pipes. All in all, looks like it is going to fit pretty good. Then finally I bolted on a set of 18x10 Chrome FR500s with 295/35/18 BFG KDW2 on them, these aren't the wheels that are going on the car, but are being used for fitment. The ride height is roughly set where I want it to be, I might want it a little lower in the rear. I also ended up finding a picture from when I moved the car, this was the first time it was one the ground. Gotta love the Tri-Bars as well. ;)