redmastercraft

If you're looking for concours advice you really need to go to the concours forum. Just google concours mustang forum and you'll find it. BTW every Mardi report I have seen has the car 1 of 1 for something. He does that to make every car special...my car included and it's pretty bare bones.

I had similar dent in my cowl. The car had been jumped or put into a ditch at some point. Took some time to find the bend but the frame rail was bent up right in front of the shock tower. All that force was transferred along the shock tower brace into the cowl. You could also see evidence in the firewall and the floor pan of buckling.

Looks so ordinary...

I used the improved design quarter on my 70 and the fit was way better than the standard repop. I tried the cheaper (priced) one first and they fit terrible, so sold them and went with the improved version. I used their doors and they fit pretty good but had to make some adjustments where the door handle fit (lock cylinder was too small and the handle hole was in the wrong place) and reshape the front edge of the door to fit the fender contour. I also replaced a fender and the fit was ok, headlight bucket was a bit off (broke the spot welds and moved it) and the contour of the fender to the windshield trim is terrible. I cut the edge that butts up to the windshield off my old fender and welded it to the new one. One thing you need to understand about most of the metal out there is that it is stamped by 1 or 2 companies in Taiwan. It's branded by several different companies and sold as their own. Best advise is to talk to people that used the part you're looking to replace and get their honest feedback on how much work its going to take to make it fit. All this metal will need some tweaking.

Correct, bevel to the hard body line in the upper portion of the door. Who knows what the technical name for it is. Looks like a crease to me. Either way I'm getting a contour gauge and I'll match the fender. What I mean by split the door is to take a body saw and cut right down the crease. Move the metal where I need it to go then weld it back up. I took the door off yesterday and I'll be able to move it around enough with a body hammer. Just need to wait for the contour gauge... Thanks for the help

The quarter is not original but it matches the door quite well. I have an aftermarket fender on the other side that matches the contour much better, so I'm guessing this is just the typical Taiwan sheetmetal

It's about 1/8 to 1/4 down at the crease but I'll give it a try. Worse case I'll split it, move it around, then weld it up.

I have a 70 with the original fender in great shape and an aftermarket door. The top bevel of the door is not as sharp as the original so it is causing a bit of a gap you can see in the first picture. The second image is looking down at the area that needs to be worked. Would you split the door down the crease line and bring both sides up to meet the fender or is there a better way?

Thanks. Great thread. Now I don't feel so bad about my gaps...

mustangstofear, can you post a picture where the door and fender meet the rocker. Curious of what the gap looks like there. Thanks...

You can fix broken tabs with a product called muggy weld. It is a low melting point alloy that can be used to solder it back together. I used it on my 1970 buckets and they came out great.

Not much help for this topic so let's try a different approach. Can someone measure the difference in angle of the rocker versus the floor support. A good place to measure would be on the tail end of the floor support past where the trans support mounts and then the adjacent rocker to compare. I can use this difference in angle to figure out how high the front should be. Thanks Matt

The entire front clip was removed from my 1970 due to some damage and i'm trying to put it back on correctly. I have the frame diagrams from the service manual and liskey but they don't exactly match each other so not sure which way to go. I mounted the fenders on the front clip and with the diagram measurements the gap at the door is terrible, wide at the top and tight at the bottom. To get it have nice lines the front has to be raise about 1/2" above the reference measurements. Has anyone else ran into this problem? Also, should the floor supports be parallel to the rockers or are they slightly titled down toward the rear of the car? With good door gaps at the fenders, mine are tilted down about 1.5 degrees.

It routed on the exterior of the floor. There was a clip on the passenger side of the floor near the tunnel that held it away from the transmission and exhaust

That is where I picked it up