2011SVT

Just switched mine to bolt-in this year. The windows had been reglued in 2008 by a reputable shop and both were falling out again. Decided to apply the 'permanent' solution. (fingers crossed)

Just switched mine to bolt-in this year. The windows had been reglued in 2008 by a reputable shop and both were falling out again. Decided to apply the 'permanent' solution. (fingers crossed)

Any source for good instructions/tutorial? Thanks! - Chuck

I feel like there's a lot (like > 1") of 'on center' play in my manual steering. Is that normal or something that might be corrected with a new box?

When I flip on both the headlights and the windshield wipers, at idle the car tries to die. I'm thinking voltage is dropping because the alternator doesn't make enough amperage(?) No markings on the alternator to tell me what the amperage is (which is odd given that this was a 'concours' type restore so I would have expected to see the standard autolite color codes - shrug). Thoughts?

Is there any advantage to the aftermarket 'high-performance' mechanicals vs. more OEM types?

Ok, I went with a Holley 4160 750 cfm vac secondaries and electric choke. If I need to mess with the secondary jetting I reckon I can get a metering block conversion for another $40 but I doubt that will be necessary. Assuming the 4160 works well, then I can start work on the 735 and see if I get it tuned better than the new carb. :) Will keep you guys posted. Thanks for the help (as always).

Do electric chokes clear the bottom of the shaker air cleaner assembly?

I guess part of it is that I want to have a carburetor that is basically working, (albeit rich) to put on the side and then have one to 'play with'. If I muck it up beyond helping I can put the 735 back on and be no worse off :) I'd also like to find something with quick change jetting. Looks like the idle mixture and even the accelerator pumps are easy to work with. The jets and power valve are still a matter of pulling off the fuel bowls and metering block to change jets?

While I am waiting for the new engine to be built, I've undertaken a number of smaller things to make the car more drivable in the short term. Currently I have a stock-ish 428CJ build with about 1,000 miles on the rebuild. The only non-stock parts are the MSD ignition system (I just installed and it cleared up a number of problems) and a Comp Cam 268H that was done as part of the restore/rebuild that pre-dates my ownership. The carb is a period correct 730cfm Holley. My issue is that I believe the car runs way too rich. Reading the plugs plus the nice black exhaust seem to support this. I'd like to get in there and start monkeying but.... I'd like to preserve the 730 as it sits. I'd actually like drain it, wrap it up, and put it on the shelf for the next guy who wants to put everything back that I 'broke' :) So what should I get as a replacement? Ideally I'd like to get something easy to tune (without spending money on an EFI setup - just to forestall you well intentioned guys that point out a laptop is easier than jet changes :). Got an EFI system coming on the new motor). Thoughts? Thanks! - Chuck

I am intensely interested in seeing the 295/50 on 15x10s pictures. I looked at you albums. The must recent one if captioned with "15x7 4.25 bs 215/70/15 & 15x8 4.5 bs 275/60/15". The December ones aren't captioned. Are any of those pictures the 15x10s?

Thanks guys! Feedback I've read across the web suggests that the 2-3 problem is hit/miss sometimes completely not seen, sometimes < 6k, sometimes still there after some one like Liberty or Hanlon reworks the syncros.... etc. etc. I'm still mulling over whether or not just to have the syncros upgraded or to go with the faceplating right out of the gate. There are some good youtube/user experiences with how to drive on the street with a faceplated TKO600 which make it look like a piece of cake. <shrug> I guess I can always start with the upgraded syncros and then faceplate later if things don't go well. Appreciate the feedback on the shifters and clutches as well. I've had both Spec and McLeod in other cars and liked both although I lean more toward McLeod twins for streetability/easy handling. Spec if I need something to hold a ton of power :) I am thinking of going with the Hurst shifter. Not as good (IMO) as an MGW but I had one in my '07 GT and I liked the notchiness (just the right amount sez I) so we'll try it out here as the Hurst on the stick and the ball fit the old skool look a little better.

Me likey. Nice choice! What is the back spacing if you don't mind me asking? Is that on a stock axle and wheel well? (Apologies if this has been asked and answered)

I have questions for you :smile: : 1. Are you having problems with the dreaded 2-3 shift balk? 2. Did you have Liberty, Hanlon, etc. do any aftermarket work to your trans? 3. Are any of you running faceplated transmissions? If so, what's it like to drive on the street? 4. Which shifter are you running, how do you like it, and did it line up with the existing holes in the tunnel and console? 5. What clutch are you running. Experiences? Thanks! - Chuck

Beautiful! Wow.