Guillaume69

Lots of people evacuated the area before it hit. Phone lines usually get saturated by so many people trying to call their friends and loved ones. Electricity goes out for a while too. He’ll be back in time. People in these coastal areas know what do when a hurricane comes their way. Looks like Tyndall AB got pretty much wiped out... Airmen will be in need for help over there. G

Thank you!

Touché! LOL Just so you know: « Sacrebleu » “Old familiar French swear word used to describe anger, astonishment or admiration. Origin of the expression "sacrebleu" This expression is a softer deformation of "sacredieu" where “bleu” is put in the place of “Dieu” (God), to avoid blasphemy. Indeed, in the middle age, the very act of pronouncing the name of God was not only blasphemous but also punishable by physical punishment. That is why all the French expressions containing the term God have been modified in order to avoid the wrath of Church officials.”

Interesting topic, this one! Allow me to give you a different prospect here, if I may. Language is a key factor. In English, objects have no gender. You say (or write) « a » car, « a » ship, « a » wrench, « a » screw driver... Gender only comes into play when the object becomes the subject of a verb, right? The problem is that you can chose if it’s going to be a “he” or a “she”. Or stay a genderless “it”, actually. In French, for instance, all nouns have been given a gender very long ago. I do not know when or why. I just now that grammatically, a car is a “she” . We say une voiture. A truck is a “he”: un camion. We just have to memorize it as kids, when we learn to speak. As a grown up, you just know that a chair is feminine (une chaise) and an armchair is masculine (un fauteuil)... Now as far as ships are concerned, in French, the noun “ship” is masculine. We say “un navire” (“un bateau” , for a boat). Now when sailors call a ship by its name, it varies. The Titanic was always called masculine (Le Titanic). L’Hermione was always considered feminine. The gender goes with what they are called after. I wonder how this goes in Mandarin... G

Randy, Here are pics of my 1969 non-A/C heater box. Hope this helps. G

2”1/2 pipes are also phenomenal, when it comes to how your car sounds, throughout the entire rpm range... Muscle car sound, for those who enjoy that kind of music. G

Hello Maleah, Sounds like there is a lot in common between our cars. Here is my set-up: Original 351W, 0.030 over 600 cfm Edelbrock Performer recalibrated w/ #1450 metering rods (after dyno) Intake: Weiand stealth 8023 Heads: Stock 1969 cast iron Windsor, w/ 1.460 OD Valve springs and ARP rocker screw in studs Cam: Howard Cams #CL22127510 in .528 / ex .533; Duration in 270/ ex 278; Duration @ .050: in 217 / ex 225; LSA: 108; Lifters: Howard Cams Hyd/roller Push rods: Trick Flow (TFS-21407750) chrome moly 5/16x7.750 Roller rocker arms: Scorpion (SCCSCP3017BL) 3/8x1.6 Hooker Comp headers with Flowmasters 2,5 inches exhaust lines (car is manual 4 spd Toploader, no PS) This has worked real good for me, even though I can feel the stock Windsor heads are restrictive at « higher » RPM. Better heads are on my bucket list. As is, motor feels very healthy and pulls really nice and strong in the low/mid range. It’s got 15,000 miles now (was rebuilt in 2014) and I get a very decent mileage when I behave myself... With the 3.0 stock rear end, was timed at 140 mph on some secret highway over here. Super stable and reliable steering (with some opentrackerracing parts in the front), the car rides straight like an arrow. But man, it felt like Lucifer himself was pushing on the rear bumper! G

There might be a « cleaner » method indeed. I simply followed RCC Innovations mounting instructions (see attached) which seemed good enough for me. It allows the conversion without altering the original underdash harness, which was important for me. You only mess with the printed circuit here (and your ammeter, of course). Only downside of this method is now you have an additional wire (the red one) to disconnect when removing the cluster. The good thing is I never had to remove my cluster since I did that conversion. It’s been perfectly working for me as is for 4 years and 15,000 miles. Thanks to Randy, I might add!! ;-) G XR7Voltmeter.pdf

Hi, I’ve done this conversion a couple years ago. Works perfect! Just make sure you state your min/max voltage values (12/15 in my case) before you send your ammeter for conversion. They’ll set it with the right resistor from scratch. As far as adapting the printed circuit board, here’s how it looks once done. Hope this helps, along with Randy’s advice. G

Our participants list is growing, crossing the 30 cars mark. Hope to see more 69-70 Boss 302 European owners join us! G 1/ Guillaume69 - 2013 GB Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 2/ Olive74 - 1970 MB Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 3/ Phœnix101 - 2012 RR Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 4/ Armazeus - 2012 KB Boss 302 - FRA (P) 5/ Pachouille - 2012 BR Boss 302 LS - CH (I+P) 6/ Spider69 - 2013 SBY Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 7/ Davis302 - 2013 GB Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 8/ Charles26 - 2013 RR Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 9/ Gérard - 2013 GB Boss 302 - CH (I+P) 10/ OrangeBoss - 2012 CO Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 11/ Boubous - 2013 SBY Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 12/ Karim63 - 2013 SBY Boss 302 - FRA (I) 13/ Jo Koos - 2012 CO Boss 302 - LUX 14/ Dennis Korte - 2013 RR Boss 302 - ALL 15/ Rouki89 - 2012 PW Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 16/ Frank Riff- 2013 GHIG Boss 302 - ALL 17/ Ian Kirby - 2013 LS - UK (I+P) 18/ Simon Roose - modèle à confirmer - UK 19/ Bernard34 - 2013 RR Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 20/ Nono73 - 2012 BR Boss 302 LS - FRA (I+P) 21/ Geoffrey - 2013 GHIG Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 22/ Loulou - 2013 BS Boss 302 LS - FRA (I+P) 23/ Facty - 2013 GB Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 24/ Ace of Hearts - 2013 PW Boss 302 - FRA 25/ Serge C29 - 2013 SBY Boss 302 - FRA 26/ Gilbert - 1970 GB Boss 302 - FRA 27/ Lolo33 - 2007 Saleen 302 Parnelli Jones- FRA 28/ Zimbo - 2012 RR Boss 302 - FRA (I+P) 29/ Pierre - 2013 RR Boss 302 - FRA 30/ Kelly B - modèle à confirmer - UK

I thought no zerks were needed on roller bearings. Isn’t that so?

Aslanefe, I am pretty sure the picture used above actually shows the OT idler arm. Only one zerk. The Moog he’s got probably looks more like this (two zerks). G

Man, those OT front end parts are sweet aren’t they? After the roller spring perches, this one might very well be my next upgrade. Not so pricey considering how long it will last. Their roller UCA and LCA are way pricier.... G

New printed circuits work fine but as mentioned above, it takes patience and finesse to set them properly. Everything ties down to centering everything carefully when tightening the gauges nuts so that the threaded studs don’t ground on the metal frame, as Midlife explained. G

Holy crap! Did you get hurt? Your car was probably a twin sister of mine, except for the color and a 2 barrel carb (H-code). GT, manual 4-speed toploader close ratio, 3.00 9’ rear end, no AC, no PS. And it does make for a wonderful driver! Today it has a 4 barrel 600 CFM Edel carb atop of a Weiand Stealth intake, and a mild cam. Still has its original Windsor heads, which tend to be somewhat restrictive, or so I feel. Still making 300+hp at the rear wheels, and plenty of torque! And I too got the car with its original GT wheels. Sold them for Torque Trust 15 years ago. I should have kept them on shelf. Very stupid move... G

Yeah, I had a taste of that kind of situation too. I was able to rescue the car, even though the insurance companies had other plans for it. I fought hard and eventually won, but it’s a rough memory. I feel your pain! It was a GT, wasn’t it? How old where you back then?

My bet is that not only will it ride well, but it’ll do so for a long time as well. That’s what quality parts bring you: longevity! Now I am jealous...

Nope, RPM, no Arning drop on that 69. Never felt the need for it. A friend of mine just did it on his 68 Fastback. I’ll see how that feels.

Aslanefe, Thanks for a great advice! I’ll arrange that asap. I wonder why I did not see that myself... The front end geometry is just amazing. Best I ever had on my car in 22 years. It was done by a local “front end voodoo wizard”, back where I was in NW FL. Vannoy’s Tires was the name of that shop. Done 3 years ago and still feels amazing. Car drives in a straight line, whatever the speed is. I shouldn’t say this, but I hit 140 mph on the highway this weekend, to give the motor a little “shake” and get the pipes fresh and clean. Had a passenger with me who couldn’t believe we were that fast. Felt like 90-100, no more. I also cleaned it today. First time I did the engine bay, since the car was restored (11k miles now). God, I love that car!! G

Hello fellow 69 brothers! Long time since I last posted about my 69. It’s doing greater than ever with my last little mod. As a matter of fact, I finally took the time to mount those roller spring perches I had bought a year or so ago. I went for a 300 miles trip this weekend and I couldn't be happier. With the rest on the front end nicely rebuilt during during the restoration of the car, those actually make for an impressive feel on the road, even the rough back country ones. The front feels « light », steering (manual) is very accurate and last but not least: NO MORE SQUEAKING!! I am so impressed with these from Opentrackerracing that I will gradually convert the entire front end suspension to their roller product line: UCA, LCA. Pricey but man, what a feeling! G

Well I believed only GTs had GT stripes... And no mention of the Sport Appearance Group on this document? Some info here: http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16175.0 Apparently the tape stripe found on the 600 was not exclusive to it. Just like the Grande Stripe. At least that’s what Marti tells us.

You are absolutely right, Aslanefe. From what I gathered in my readings, this tape stripe was not exclusive to Grandes. Apparently, it could be ordered on other coupes as well as part of the sports appearance group. I just couldn’t find a pic of a non Grande coupe with said tape stripe. I also saw a bunch of Grandes without the stripe, or even a vinyl top. Seems like you could virtually order any combination of options on any model, back in the day.

No problem, I just googled it and learnt a little more about 69 Mustang lore... LoL

I swear that in my case, ignition switch was good (first thing I tested) and solenoid was dead. Starter never stay engaged. Only symptom was unable to switch the engine off with key, every now and then. These are facts. I can’t explain it, but facts still.

Barnett, It’s a Mach 1 stripe you are showing us here. From what I understand, the sport appearance group tape stripe mentioned in some Marti Reports was different. The same as the one found on the 600 limited edition. Actually, the stripe was not the same on Sportsroofs and coupes. The stripe was running higher and farther to the rear on coupes. See pics below to get a better idea. G